Maf?
Maf?
I have a 88 Camaro 2.8 V6 tpi. My problem is that I'm getting trouble code 34 which shows a problem with the mass air flow sensor. The simptons are this: I used to turn the key only once and I was off. Now it usually takes two times. The idle is not as smooth as it used to be either. Also in the first 30 seconds or so of the car being on it from time to time will die. It has never been a major problem but I want it fixed. Also I have checked and cleaned the MAF sensor but the problem persists.
So is the MAF sensor the problem?
How do I find out if this will fix the problem before I install and lose the warranty and about $60-$80 on a new MAF sensor?
So is the MAF sensor the problem?
How do I find out if this will fix the problem before I install and lose the warranty and about $60-$80 on a new MAF sensor?
Red,
Check the power supply to the MAF. There is a relay on the right front radiator support, and a fuse on the right inner fender. Check all the connections at these devices, as well as the relay contacts. Check the electrical connector at the MAF itself. Make sure the MAF is not leaking air - it has to be sealed to the intake ductwork. The ductwork also needs to be sealed with no cracks, cplits, or loose joints.
If all that checks out, monitor the voltage of the MAF signal with a digital voltmeter on the 'B' terminal (brown/white wire). The voltage should vary in linear proportion to the amount of air flowing through it,and at idle should be in the area of 0.50-0.85 volts.
That aside, where are you finding a replacement MAF for $60-$80? My last one was over $170.00, and I thought it was a bargain. And what's that about a warranty?
Check the power supply to the MAF. There is a relay on the right front radiator support, and a fuse on the right inner fender. Check all the connections at these devices, as well as the relay contacts. Check the electrical connector at the MAF itself. Make sure the MAF is not leaking air - it has to be sealed to the intake ductwork. The ductwork also needs to be sealed with no cracks, cplits, or loose joints.
If all that checks out, monitor the voltage of the MAF signal with a digital voltmeter on the 'B' terminal (brown/white wire). The voltage should vary in linear proportion to the amount of air flowing through it,and at idle should be in the area of 0.50-0.85 volts.
That aside, where are you finding a replacement MAF for $60-$80? My last one was over $170.00, and I thought it was a bargain. And what's that about a warranty?
Thanks for the help Vader. I know there are no leaks or cracks in the intake or MAF itself, but I will check the relays, fuses, and connections closer.
$60-$80 MAF is the price I got from Autozone. Thier "warranty" that I spoke of was really a return policy. Electronic parts can be returned if that part was not your actual problem ONLY if the part has not been installed. I've seen MAFs for the price you stated around $140-$170 but those were high proformance MAFs. I'm talking about OEM part replacements.
$60-$80 MAF is the price I got from Autozone. Thier "warranty" that I spoke of was really a return policy. Electronic parts can be returned if that part was not your actual problem ONLY if the part has not been installed. I've seen MAFs for the price you stated around $140-$170 but those were high proformance MAFs. I'm talking about OEM part replacements.
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