Hi, I've already did a search on intake leaks but did not find my answer. Heres my problem. coolant leak front driver side of intake.
I want to know whats best to use to correct these from ocurring again. I have felpro gaskets and for the bolt threads I was planning on using LOCTITE thread sealant with teflon or RECTORSEAL #5 or does anybody have anything better to use. And also, can I use some type of sealant on the gasket itself or should I just install gasket dry. Appreciate any help!
P.S. I also, when doing the breakdown of the intake I always heard about checking the injectors to see how they were spraying. I hooked up the injectors and had them sticking out a bit and turn the key and not one sprayed. Did I not do something right. Do I need to have the other sensors like IAC, Temp,EGR solenoid for injectors to spray. Thanks again.

 

I am not sure about the sealants that you have for the intake, but I have the same problem. Thanks to a couple of other members I have the information to remove and reseal the intake, unfortunately I just don't have the time it will take to do it right. I called Arizona Speed and Marine for a price and realized I had forgotten to use my basic metallurgy training. Aluminum->Cast Iron ->Water / Glycol = electrolosis and galvanic action, in other words the leak is probably due to corrosion in the water inlet area. After I was reminded of the corrosion issue I realized that no amount of sealant was going to last long term if this was the issue. A new intake is probably in the cards for me , of course I will have to have it ported, and larger runners installed, new throttle body, larger cam, and probably new heads to match (at least thats what I told my wife. Good thing she wont be able to tell when I get the car back.. Good luck and I hope you don't have to replace the intake.

 

Another reason to use Dex-Cool instead of "regular" polyethylene glycol coolant concentrates.

 

Vader, What is Dex-cool

 

Have the same problem with intake. Posted article last week about cyl. 2+4 having oily plugs. Replaced plugs and pulled again anmd found basically the same thing. Replaced intake gasket less than two years ago, torqued everything to spec and I have a leak(vacuum) and I suspect I am pulling oil into the cylinder. It is a real problem when you mate metals with different coefficients of exxpansion. Problem with TPI is that you cannot retorque the intake after everything is assembled. When I pull it this time I will check for warping on both mating surfaces. Mine also went bad in area of coolant port. Some guys put a fine bead of RTV around those areas, but Fel-Pro and most gasket makers say to put nothing on the gasket because it will cause vacuum leaks. DEXCOOL is a coolant developed for GM by Texaco primarily for aluminum engines. It is a non-silicate OAT(organic acid tecnology) coolant. It boasts of 100k or 5-7 year life. If you convert to DEXCOOL you must completely flush old coolant. You can have no more than a ten percent mix of old coolant.

 

I use to have problems with leaks on my 87. I finnaly used that copper high temp, high tack gasket spray. Cleaned all the sufraces with alachol. No leaks after that.

BILL

 

O.K. I like to try this Dex-cool but what would be the best way to flush the system out beside emptying and refilling a couple of times. I've seen these flush kits adapters that you hookup to your hoses are they any good. and if they are which hose lines do I hookup too. thanks.

 

All,

I had this problem (twice) with my 91 Z28 on the same side as well.

They (GM dealer) pulled the tops off and shaved the heads, put new gaskets on, etc. and I have not had a problem since. The new problem is that when they shaved the head it caused a gap in the distributer when it is put on. GM double gasketed the distributer and it now has a slight leak



Mark

 

I too had this same coolant leak. Had it for a cupala years now, just finally decided to do something about it this winter. I found the gasket was shot around the coolant port. Also found oily intake ports on cyl. #1+3. Not real sure where the oil was coming from, but the other cyl ports were dry. A buddy at work suggested the PCV circuit could be sucking oil. But I don't think so. I'm suspecting the intake gasket again.

Anyways, just got my new intake gasket set today from S&P. No, they are not Felpro gaskets, but OEM GM pieces. I hope they will work. But how do they get installed?? On each end of the gasket, there is a little round metal tab that goes around both end bolt holes. But it doesn't match up with the head. It seems to fit the intake side bolt hole, but it is not the way the gasket "should" be in my opinion. The gaskets seem to be identical, meaning they could be installed on either side of the intake.

Need some help, thanks!!

 

Did a lot of checking in the last two days as to what to do for this intake leak prob. Edelbrock has a great 17 pages of the correct way to install an aluminum manifold. Guess what, they claim that the fel-pro permatorque gasket is NOT suitable for alum. intakes. They suggest using what they call a Printoseal gasket mfg. by fel-pro. My buddy next door as I have said before is a mech. eng as well a cycle and car nut and he has suggested something a little different. He wants to use belleville washers with new bolts to secure the manifold. These washers will provide constant torque and compensate for the difference in metal expansion rates. He showed me the math, as well as a diagram of what happens when these heat up. There is actually a point where the fastener will become loose during the heat and cool cycle. This is because the alum. changes at a dramatically faster rate than cast iron. At some point during this the bolt will actually be no morethan finger tight until the metals stabilize. The only solution is to provide a constant torque, and these washers will do the trick. I just did this 2 years ago, and I don't want to do it again. As a point of interest my one friend works for a Dodge dealer and he now tells me they are using these on thier alum. heads with much success. When I get all the parts and sources together I will post the here.

 

Anybody know where to gat good quality torx bits the one I usually get don't last too long. I've used the Sears, husky,esile brands and they have lifetime warranty but I like to get something that won't strip out. Thanks.

 

try the SnapOn bit used for impact applications. That of course is if you want to pay the price. Me for one, I just keep taking them back.

 

Is there any to tighten these bolts without removing the plenum? I have oil coming up from one of my bolts. The torx bit I have is too tall for me the get a rachet on. Will a universal work?

BILL

 

Unfortunately no. Bill, I tried to get into mine and as you know you are**** out of luck. Edelbock supplies 12 point standard as thier bolt kit, at least you may be able to get in that way. I will be yanking mine off AGAIN and as I said I am going to try Rolex belleville washers. That is about the only way I see to apply constant torque throughout the heat and cooling cycle. To the other guy asking about flushing I got the Prestone kit and installed it in my heater hose. Best way is to remove the thermostat and just keep flushing until water is clean. Would not hurt to run the engine a little to circulate. After that 50/50 mix of Dexcool and distilled water and you are done. If you have too much ethelyne-glycol left the Dexcool will turn black or a real dirty brown. Just reflush if needed and you should be OK. Only had to do mine once. Good Luck, Danno

 

Glad to see this topic here. I have just developed the same problem: Intake leaking on the drivers side in the front. Is there any way to pull the TPI setup off as a whole (intake, runners, plenum, throttle body) or would it be a better idea to do it individually?

 

I spoke to a local dealer to find out about this problem. The service manager was very honest and straight forward with me (not a usual experience with many dealer service areas). He told me that this problem was pretty common with our cars. The reseal would cost around $450 with an oil change to make sure no coolant had gotten mixed in. He told me that just putting a new set of standard gaskets did not solve the problem in most cases. They use a O.E.M. gasket with a sealant requiring 24 hours cure time before assembly and don't have the releak problem. He said this is done for no additional cost, they are already a few hundred dollars below my other quotes, and they give you a 12 month warranty on the fix. I have not decided how i will proceed, just info for everyone.