L98 Teardown/Crank removal help needed please!
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Jersey City, NJ
L98 Teardown/Crank removal help needed please!
So I got the engine down to everything except for the crank/rods/pistons...problem is that the engine siezed and now the crank wont turn no matter what I try, and I cant remove the last three remaining rod bolts to get the pistons/rods away to even lift it out, and cant rotate the assembly to get to them in the first place.....any ideas on what I should do? I called a few machine shops since I am going to have it bored anyay and they all told me that they would charge me the regular disassembly labor fee even though they would only be removing the crank/rods. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Joined: Jan 2000
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RP,
Do yo have the case upside-down in a stand? If so, have you tried to remove the main caps and manipulate the crank around to expose the rod cap bolts? Raising, er, dropping (or whatever) the crank away from the pistons should tend to pull the rods straighter down in the bores and may get you engough attack angle on those last rod cap bolts.
Unfortunately, if you are planning to use the pistons and rods again, that's about all I can suggest without damaging the reciprocating parts. If you are starting with all new parts, you could loosen the crank and try beating the everlasting H3LL out of the pistons with a 4x4 block to "coax" them down the bores. A rather Neanderthal approach, I know, but lacking any other ideas a big friggin' hammer can look pretty inviting... must be the recessive genes in us engineering types. Man, I can feel my knucles raking across the gravel already.
Do yo have the case upside-down in a stand? If so, have you tried to remove the main caps and manipulate the crank around to expose the rod cap bolts? Raising, er, dropping (or whatever) the crank away from the pistons should tend to pull the rods straighter down in the bores and may get you engough attack angle on those last rod cap bolts.
Unfortunately, if you are planning to use the pistons and rods again, that's about all I can suggest without damaging the reciprocating parts. If you are starting with all new parts, you could loosen the crank and try beating the everlasting H3LL out of the pistons with a 4x4 block to "coax" them down the bores. A rather Neanderthal approach, I know, but lacking any other ideas a big friggin' hammer can look pretty inviting... must be the recessive genes in us engineering types. Man, I can feel my knucles raking across the gravel already.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 547
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From: Culleoka, Tn
Car: 85 iroc,96 z28,96 Ram 2500,69RR
Engine: 383 with AFR heads.
Transmission: richmond 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 1991 w/1LE.auburn pro series.2.73's
not a caveman an ape
wd 40 the livin **** out of the offending seized points and remove the main caps get a nice nice brass hammer and get wailing-btw, are the seized parts the rods,or mains, are pistons welded in place? got an impact hammer to drive the pistons either way? are you sure that this is a good core motor? would a chrome wobbly fit down to loosen the caps? probably wouldnt do any good taking off the rod caps cuz the crank needs to turn to extricate itself from the con.rods. wd40 brass hammer and pretend its osama's face or knutz or whatever to ensure the force applied is more than sufficient to complete the task. 
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