think im running richafter mods any help please(VADER)ANYONE!!!
think im running richafter mods any help please(VADER)ANYONE!!!
last week i ported my plennum and gutted the airbox cleaned the IAC and pulled the intake to change the gaskets etc. also installed a 180 deg. stat and new pcv valve cleanedup throttle body and also did the valvecover gaskets. new distcap and roter
plugs and wires
when all was said and done i ended up with hidh idle 1300 in park
and about 1000 in drive, tps is set at .54 and over 4 at WOT
(CANT FIND ANY VAC LEAKS)
I adjusted the min air screw on TB to bring idle down. its good at idle but high when engine warms up.(600at idle park)
im getting a good bit of black buildup in exaust pipes and loss about 3-4 mpg.(from 26 to 22.5).
any ideas on this need help!!
plugs and wires
when all was said and done i ended up with hidh idle 1300 in park
and about 1000 in drive, tps is set at .54 and over 4 at WOT
(CANT FIND ANY VAC LEAKS)
I adjusted the min air screw on TB to bring idle down. its good at idle but high when engine warms up.(600at idle park)
im getting a good bit of black buildup in exaust pipes and loss about 3-4 mpg.(from 26 to 22.5).
any ideas on this need help!!
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,896
Likes: 1
From: Warrington, PA USA
Car: "02 z-28
Engine: LS-1
Transmission: 4L60E
You can check for mixture condition like this. Start engine and let engine warm up. While engine is running jumper terminals of ALDL connector(the same one you use to get codes). If the engine is running in open loop the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light will flash at approx two and a half times a second(fast rate). If it is going into closed loop it will flash at approx. once a second(slow rate). If engine is going into closed loop the light will also indicate mixture. If the mixture is rich the light will stay on for most of the one second cycle, if lean it will just slightly blip. You have to determine first if you ARE going into closed loop when warm. This will tell you that O2 sensor is working. If the engine is staying in open loop then suspect O2. If this problem started AFTER you did work then start from ground zero. You pulled dist to service intake. Have you set base timing with EST connector unplugged. Also did you possibly damage IAC pintle when it was out. To electrically reset IAC I would do this. Depress gas pedal slightly and start engine for five seconds. Turn off engine for ten seconds, and then restart. This should reset IAC. Also I would scan for codes. Good Luck, Danno
Last edited by Danno; Mar 27, 2002 at 06:39 AM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
If this problem entirely began after the mods, then 99% likely that you made a mistake somewhere. You are not magically running rich or anything like that from what you did. At least that's not the 'cause' of the problem, possibly just an effect of what you did wrong.
Sounds like you tried some of the basics and haven't found anything yet. I'd recomend going over everything again. Make sure everything is connected and has a good connection. Something as simple as some dirt or a loose CTS connection could be causing your high idle.
I really think you're going to find something flagrantly wrong if you dig a little harder. If your car truly will not drop to a normal idle then it should be throwing an IAC code to let you know that it can't control the idle. Since it isn't throwing a code like that, the ECM see what it is doing as normal, which means that one of your sensors is lying to it. Idle speed is directly controlled by coolant temp. Beyond that could be any weird little gremlin. Without hooking a scanner to it, all you can do is carefully triple check everything you did.
Sounds like you tried some of the basics and haven't found anything yet. I'd recomend going over everything again. Make sure everything is connected and has a good connection. Something as simple as some dirt or a loose CTS connection could be causing your high idle.
I really think you're going to find something flagrantly wrong if you dig a little harder. If your car truly will not drop to a normal idle then it should be throwing an IAC code to let you know that it can't control the idle. Since it isn't throwing a code like that, the ECM see what it is doing as normal, which means that one of your sensors is lying to it. Idle speed is directly controlled by coolant temp. Beyond that could be any weird little gremlin. Without hooking a scanner to it, all you can do is carefully triple check everything you did.
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