Anyone wanna help a newbie rebuild his motor?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: Vortec 350 TPI
Transmission: 7004r
Anyone wanna help a newbie rebuild his motor?
I just tore everything apart on my donor block.
the cylinders look good, hardly no ridge at the top of em.
I check each cylinder with a caliper to make sure they kept their roundness and none of them have worn obnormally.
piston rings are still really tight in the grooves (.01mm gap)
I think this engine had low miles on it.
I visually inspected the crankshaft and used a caliper to measure roundness. no visible cracks or anything...
so whats next? Do I need to check anything else? Can I start putting it back together?
I want to reuse my rods but put new pistons/rings in
the pistons appear in great shape though, but I want to spray nitrous. Would it be foolish to run used rods in a mild nitrous motor? (150-200 shot)
Am I forgetting anything?
I feel as though I am...
:lala: :lala: :lala:
the cylinders look good, hardly no ridge at the top of em.
I check each cylinder with a caliper to make sure they kept their roundness and none of them have worn obnormally.
piston rings are still really tight in the grooves (.01mm gap)
I think this engine had low miles on it.
I visually inspected the crankshaft and used a caliper to measure roundness. no visible cracks or anything...
so whats next? Do I need to check anything else? Can I start putting it back together?
I want to reuse my rods but put new pistons/rings in
the pistons appear in great shape though, but I want to spray nitrous. Would it be foolish to run used rods in a mild nitrous motor? (150-200 shot)
Am I forgetting anything?
I feel as though I am...
:lala: :lala: :lala:
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Vader, where's your "engine rebuilding basics" tech article?
Even though it doesn't seem like much, that "ridge" at the top of the cylinder is death to new rings, especially if the engine is spun faster than it was when the ridge was created. It has to be removed, and the best way to do that is by over-boring the cylinders and installing matching pistons & rings.
The stock rods should be fine, have them resized and ARP bolts installed. Piston installation onto the rods takes the right equipment, leave that to a machine shop. Crank should also be checked, will probably benefit from a turning.
In order to be done right, the block has to be completely disassembled (all rotating parts removed, freeze & galley plugs removed, cam bearings removed) and tanked. Then, rebored, cleaned, plugs and cam bearings installed, then reassembled.
On a high horsepower, high rev'n engine, balancing is a good idea.
What plans did you have for cam and heads? Very, very important for power. Exhaust?
Unless you are really devoted to having a 305, it makes more sense to do all this to a 350, $'s/HP-wise. But, that's your personal decision.
Even though it doesn't seem like much, that "ridge" at the top of the cylinder is death to new rings, especially if the engine is spun faster than it was when the ridge was created. It has to be removed, and the best way to do that is by over-boring the cylinders and installing matching pistons & rings.
The stock rods should be fine, have them resized and ARP bolts installed. Piston installation onto the rods takes the right equipment, leave that to a machine shop. Crank should also be checked, will probably benefit from a turning.
In order to be done right, the block has to be completely disassembled (all rotating parts removed, freeze & galley plugs removed, cam bearings removed) and tanked. Then, rebored, cleaned, plugs and cam bearings installed, then reassembled.
On a high horsepower, high rev'n engine, balancing is a good idea.
What plans did you have for cam and heads? Very, very important for power. Exhaust?
Unless you are really devoted to having a 305, it makes more sense to do all this to a 350, $'s/HP-wise. But, that's your personal decision.
a 75 to 125hp shot would be mild... you'll need a good set of hypeutectics (or forged) to run a 150+ shot
As Five7 said:
If you plan to re-ring then the ridge must come off
If you plan to add the juice then you can get away with stock rods but should be using good rod bolts
often the rods/crank do not need to be resized but that is something the machine shop should check... at the very least you should have the crank/bearing ends polished and make sure they go back in the same bore
you haven't said what kind of power (and $$$$) you hope to achieve here so it's hard to comment on how nuts you need to go with the rebuild... give us a few more details
As Five7 said:
If you plan to re-ring then the ridge must come off
If you plan to add the juice then you can get away with stock rods but should be using good rod bolts
often the rods/crank do not need to be resized but that is something the machine shop should check... at the very least you should have the crank/bearing ends polished and make sure they go back in the same bore
you haven't said what kind of power (and $$$$) you hope to achieve here so it's hard to comment on how nuts you need to go with the rebuild... give us a few more details
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: Vortec 350 TPI
Transmission: 7004r
I was kinda stingy on the info
I'm building another 350 with ported vortec heads, XE268 rollar cam, the regular bolt-ons etc. It's basically a budget build though.
I want to do this (primarily) myself, but I want it to last also
My original thoughts was eliminate the ridge with a reemer and hone the cylinders myself, purchase std size forged pistons &HD rings, and retain the stock rods/crank with all new bearings etc.
I would be happy with ~450 RWhp on the juice.
Should this hold up?
I made a search for the tech article five7 mentioned, but I can't find it?
I want a motor that can take 100shots and live a happy life
I might eventually run 150shot when I'm more experianced with n20.
I'm building another 350 with ported vortec heads, XE268 rollar cam, the regular bolt-ons etc. It's basically a budget build though.
I want to do this (primarily) myself, but I want it to last also

My original thoughts was eliminate the ridge with a reemer and hone the cylinders myself, purchase std size forged pistons &HD rings, and retain the stock rods/crank with all new bearings etc.
I would be happy with ~450 RWhp on the juice.
Should this hold up?
I made a search for the tech article five7 mentioned, but I can't find it?
I want a motor that can take 100shots and live a happy life
I might eventually run 150shot when I'm more experianced with n20.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Yeah, that was a request for Vader to get it on the board, not instructions for you to go looking for it. I have his 2nd shot at it on my computer at home, was hoping he'd had time to incorporate all the comments.
I wouldn't have any problems reaming the ridge, breaking the glaze, and re-ringing a driver. Doing that on a sprayed engine is asking for trouble, unless you keep it down like sleeper said.
I don't know how many times I've tried to keep the cost down, only to regret it later. Right now, I wish I would have done the crank & bearings on this one (have a clean .010"-under crank w/bearings sitting in the garage).
So far, not problems, but...
Perhaps there's a 350 shortblock in my near future.
I wouldn't have any problems reaming the ridge, breaking the glaze, and re-ringing a driver. Doing that on a sprayed engine is asking for trouble, unless you keep it down like sleeper said.
I don't know how many times I've tried to keep the cost down, only to regret it later. Right now, I wish I would have done the crank & bearings on this one (have a clean .010"-under crank w/bearings sitting in the garage).
So far, not problems, but...
Perhaps there's a 350 shortblock in my near future.
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