my 454 has about 2000 kms on it finally and i'm thinking of switching to Mobil 1 10W30. Mobil 1 is the most available synthetic here as opposed to Royal Purple or Redline etc. I'm mostly going to switch because of the higher oil temp i see due to A HUGE y-pipe directly under the oil pan that keeps the oil temps up there. I've always run 10W30 DINO juice but have a few quick questions before i switch.......

1. comparing 10W30 DIno to synthetic, will i see an actually pressure drop?

2. I've been told since my car drives on Sundays and sits for 6 days of the week that synthetic will COMPLETELY drain off my motor causing more harm then good (IE dry starts). is this true? keep in mind i always crank it over until i get opil pressure THEN fire it up.

3. Any other benefits (besides the obvious) or negatives i might encounter?

Thanks for taking the time to read this guys.

 

CrazyRob,

Wow - did you open the door on this one....

Normally I'd go off for several pages about the complete benefits of synthetic lubricants. Since you're a Canuck, I'll spare you and try to keep it under three chapters. But I still want that medal back! (O.K. - you beat us fair & square, and it was a helluva good game. Two out of three, maybe?)

#1. Yes. The pressure might be lower when you first start the engine since the syntheic will tend to be less viscous when cold. That's a good thing, since you'll get better pumping when cold;

#1A. No. The pressure might actually be higher when the engine is warm due to the superior thermal viscosity stability of the synthetic;

#2. False. Synthetic has long been blamed for causign leaks. Actually, it simply cleans so well that it FINDS leaks - it doesn't CAUSE them. The reason it can leak through the smallest opening is that is has a much higher molecular adhesivity. It wicks onto surfaces in a thin layer and seeps through the smallest openings. Because of this adhesivity, a thin layer also wicks onto surfaces and tends to stay there, not drain off while the engien is idle;

#3. I'm not sure what you are calling "obvious" benefits, but changing to synthetic should benefit you especially since mineral oils would tend to create sludge, ash, and varnish at elevated temperatures - just what you don't want in your fresh 454. Synthetics have no viscosity imoprover additive polymers to create ash, and tend to clean away varnish and sludge, not create it;

#4. You're welcome.


Well, look at that... Not even ONE complete chapter. Hmm - I must be slipping.

 

thanks Vader. I was hoping you'd respond to this one as i value your opinion.

I did the motor actually last winter, but damaged a bearing back in May of last year. Just last month i replaced all the bearings, cleaned the motor like you wouldn't believe and had the crank re-machined. Everything is ticky-boo right now and I'd like to keep it that way. I'm not worried about leaks as the gaskets are all still fairly new and installed properly. I guess I'm just being **** as i don't feel like pullling the motor AGAIN. :P

As i already stated, i'm really switching due to synthetics ability to resist thermal breakdown. That y-pipe really bakes the oil and i'd rather be safe then sorry. Also nothing was blatantly obvious as to why i had a bearing failure. Guess i'll go make the switch right now and keep my fingers crossed

Thanks again,

Rob

 

Whoever told you #2, don't listen to them again on anything automotive (or at least, relative to synthetic lubrication).

Yes, nice open door. Since you only drive this 1/7 of a year or less, you'll have plenty of time to plan ahead. You might want to consider AMSOIL 15W40 Marine & Diesel oil, which has excellent wear and temp properties like all their synthetics, and additional anti-corrosion properties for the sitting time. It's available on-line www.amsoil.com, isn't that hard to locate locally typically (especially in a larger city).

Mobil 1 is a good second choice.

 

i never did buy into his statement (number 2). I just smiled and nodded. lol

I would drive the car more, but considering i get 100 kms to a tank of gas, i save it for sunny days or are local cruise night, which happens to be Sunday.

I also don't think i've ever seen any Amsoil products on the shelf up here. That's why i asked about Mobil one. It's readily available. I've also heard good things about ROyal Purple, but i don't feel like ordering it from our supplier on the West Coast ever time i want to do an oil change!

 

AMSOIL on the shelf is still a little rare. Try the Yellow Pages. Or, do the website thing.

 

Rob,

Sorry about the spelling and punctuation of that first post - I'm working with an old "spare" single Pentium PC set up in the garage and had one of those old "tactile feel" keyboards that had just a little too much "feel" for my liking. (It's amazing how easily those fold up once the new one is installed.)

I'd listen to 5-7 on this. He seems to know synthetic history and specifications pretty well. I use Mobil 1 mainly for the availability as well. I've heard good things about the Amsoil line and have just never tried it. Either way, it's got to be better than mineral oil in you situation. Maybe you'll even get better mileage with the synthetic - like 105 kM/tank.

 

454! Run Mobil1 15-50. It IS the only choice. I have heard every story about oil there is. I have 3 sportbikes, two Japanese, one Italian. The big argument from the manufacturers is that synthetics cause wet clutch slippage! It is BS. EVERYBODY claims that thier oils are superior. The real deal is that ALL modern oils are really good. Honda for example claims that thier oil is superior. I found out who bottles thier oil, and I NEVER even heard of them. MY brother works for a major oil company, and according to him almost every modern motor oil is vastly superior to what we had even 5 years ago. This myth about AMSOIL being any better that Mobil1 is not true. It only comes into play if you have no intention of doing an oil change for the next two years. Get the inspection data from any oil company you feel comfortable with and COMPARE. AS with the bikes, I have NO intention of spending 8 bucks a quart for oil.