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changed oil from 5w30 to 0w30 and.....

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Old Apr 9, 2002 | 07:20 PM
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From: st louis
changed oil from 5w30 to 0w30 and.....

fellas, changed my motor oil from 5w30 to 0w30 and now there is a slight ticking. is it to late to go back to heavier weight to stop it or do crack the motor open to tighten something?
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Old Apr 9, 2002 | 08:15 PM
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From: Illinois
its ticking becuase the oil is way too light, the only time you need 0w30 is if its the middle of winter and like 5 degrees out, just get that out and put some 10w30 in there and ride
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Old Apr 9, 2002 | 08:24 PM
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Camaro-bum, just curious as to why you wanted to run 0w30 oil? just seems kinda crazy. I like to run 10w30 on the street and prefer to run 50w on the track. what does everyone else on here run?
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Old Apr 9, 2002 | 10:09 PM
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
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15w50 mobil 1
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Old Apr 9, 2002 | 10:20 PM
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From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
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Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
10W-40
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Old Apr 9, 2002 | 11:28 PM
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From: Morris, Manitoba, Canada
Car: Formula
Engine: 400 sbc
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5w30 semi syntetic

Last edited by Bird_of_Prey; Apr 9, 2002 at 11:31 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2002 | 11:51 PM
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Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
10W-30 Mobil 1 all year.
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 12:55 AM
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From: In a mint Third Gen!
Car: Red 87 IROC-Z28 T-Top
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Axle/Gears: BW 9-Bolt 3.27
5W-30 Mobil 1. All year.
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 01:24 AM
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From: Oklahoma
-10w30 Castrol GTX in the Camaro, plus substitute in a quart of Lucas oil additive in hottest months of summer.

-10w30 Castrol Syntec in Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 liter year round.

-Just bought the GTA, noticed smoke on starting, changed the oil and put in Vavoline Max Life 10w40. (I'm a Castrol guy, but I thought I'd give it a try).
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 05:51 AM
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From: Caldwell,ID
Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
10-30 in my rx-7

the cheapest un name brand **** I can find in my maverick
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 06:57 AM
  #11  
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From: Hampton Roads. VA
10W30 Mobil1 in the summer
5W30 Mobil1 in the winter
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 07:18 AM
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From: saugerties new york
Car: 91 firebird,mint
Engine: 305 tbi,lots of work done
Transmission: 700-r4 built by level 10 in nj
Axle/Gears: 3.73, auburn , precision
i run 0-30 mobil1 and my car runs fine and makes no noise........what would be the reason to run a heavier oil? and how much heavier really is 5-30 or 10-30 the lighter the oil the less parasitic drag on the crank no?
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 01:42 PM
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
What 0W-30 did you use?

I'm using AMSOIL 0W-30 year-round in three vehicles (have actually used it in all 5), no problems.

Theoretically, at operating temperatures, there should be no difference between a 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30, or 30 weight (notice I didn't put a "W" behind the straight weight). That's because the number preceding the "W" is a cold temp viscosity rating. Of course, there is a range that the latter number or straight weight can fit into and still meet the "30" rating, but just because it is a 0W doesn't mean it's thinner than a 10W-30 - could even be thicker at operating temperature than a 10W-40, because the rating is a range of viscosity, not an absolute, and the ratings do overlap.

Last edited by five7kid; Apr 10, 2002 at 01:44 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 02:01 PM
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From: Tucson - MdFormula350 = Post uberWhore
Car: Sexy
Engine: Stock
Transmission: Slipping
I don't even think they sell 0w oil around here in Arizona.

I use Castrol Synthetic 10w-40 in the summer in the Iroc, and Castrol GTX 20w-50 in the Bug.

Straight 30 in both in the winter.
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 02:09 PM
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From: Sarasota FL
Car: 99 WS6 / 00 SS / 11 CTS-V / 13 300
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Axle/Gears: 3.23 / 3.42 Auburn / 3.23 / 2.62
10w30 Mobil 1 in the Z28...
Whatever 10w30 is on sale (always name brand though) for the Grand Am...

Why anyone would want to use such a light weight is beyond me. In New England, 10w30 works great!! I wouldn't swap over to 5w30, let alone 0w30...
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 02:16 PM
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Originally posted by Mkos1980
15w50 mobil 1
Ditto in the summer cars. Year 'round cars get 10W30 in winter (down to -42°F) and 15W50 in summer. Works great for me as long as the oil pump is not an HV unit or the filter body is weak.
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 05:12 PM
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Originally posted by Mkos1980
15w50 mobil 1
Same here for the GTA.

Cheapest stuff around, no matter the weight since it won't be in there long anyway, for the PO S-10 .
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 05:32 PM
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From: In a mint Third Gen!
Car: Red 87 IROC-Z28 T-Top
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Axle/Gears: BW 9-Bolt 3.27
JE, what did you use in your 2.8??
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 05:53 PM
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From: saugerties new york
Car: 91 firebird,mint
Engine: 305 tbi,lots of work done
Transmission: 700-r4 built by level 10 in nj
Axle/Gears: 3.73, auburn , precision
mobil1 and i donr run it in the winter just start every 2 weeks till it warms up
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 06:04 PM
  #20  
wasp's Avatar
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From: saugerties new york
Car: 91 firebird,mint
Engine: 305 tbi,lots of work done
Transmission: 700-r4 built by level 10 in nj
Axle/Gears: 3.73, auburn , precision
judgin from this.........







Mobil 1® Tri-Synthetic™ Formula 5W-30

Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 5W-30 helps to ensure cold-weather start-ups. Its synthetic formula keeps the oil flowing even at -50° F, providing unmatched performance.

Benefits:

Fights sludge and varnish build-up to reduce wear.
Reduces friction to help save gas.
Protects against wear by getting to engine parts fast.

Applications: Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 5W-30 is designed for passenger cars and light trucks with gasoline or diesel engines. Fuel economy performance exceeds the highest rating.





Mobil 1® Tri-Synthetic™ Formula 0W-30

Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-30 flows up to seven times faster than conventional oils. This means it provides superior protection for engine parts during cold start-ups. And, it safeguards your engine when it's extremely hot.

Benefits:

Reduced wear on starters and batteries.
Outstanding high-temperature protection, even under heavily loaded driving conditions.
Help in maintaining low oil consumption.
Reduced engine wear by providing superior protection against metal-to-metal contact.

Applications: Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-30 can be used in virtually all passenger vehicle gasoline engines and light-duty diesel engines. It offers unsurpassed protection if you drive during extreme-temperature conditions.

if you drive in the winter use the 5 , if not dont worry about it
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 06:29 PM
  #21  
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I'm using mobil 1 10-30 all year round, 30psi at idle when hot.
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Old Apr 10, 2002 | 08:49 PM
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From: Warrington, PA USA
Car: "02 z-28
Engine: LS-1
Transmission: 4L60E
Take a look at pour point and pumpability. Unless you are in Alaska there is no need for you to run a 0wt. oil. My GOOMBAS in the motorcycle racing business like it because it generates little feedback(i.e. VERY fast revs.) Since the base stock is thin, a zero weight oil does not provide the shearing stress properties that a 10 weight oil does. You must choose viscosity by what type of conditions the motor will be subject to. THE best choice for overall performance and engine longevity is Mobil1 15-50. It has cold pumpability on par with any 5-30wt. oil and starts with a heavier base stock. Oil is another subject that generates a lot of HATE mail. While I admire the characteristics of AMSOIL, I see NO evidence of it being so superior as to exclude all other brands. Fact is, Castrol GTX has properties that rival most synthetics. I agree with other posts that ANY premium 10-30, API SJ, CH oil will provide superior protection for your engine. As meticulous as we are about our TG's I am quite sure you will find a product that matches your needs as well as your pocketbook.
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