I was wondering if this set up would kill some LS1s and 03 cobras?

388 short block with a .622/.604 lift cam 230/236 duration at .050
Fully forged bottom end with around 10.2 to 1 compression

AFR 210cc heads 1.6 pro magnum roller rockers HSR w/58mm TB

Covered with a FAST ecm

Hooker super comp headers ceramic coated by jet hot and mufflex y-pipe into 4 inch exhuast w/ spintech muffler

Built 700r w/ 2800 stall converter

8 pt cage for chassis stiffener and safety reasons with Spohn Toque arm LCAs and panhard bar

What do you think im capable of as far as quarter mile times?

 

I would hope so.....

 

whoa thats a setup!!!!!

most LS1's will need FULL bolt ons and then heads and cam to compete with that as long as its tuned right


as said above........i would hope so

thats viper killer

 

You'll need a rear end for that thing...

 

. . . and a big wallet for extra tires.

 

Somewhere between teleport and instant.

 

with gears and tires id say deep 12s your close to 500 hp with that set up

 

Your engine combo is going to take a lot of money. It is a great looking combo on paper but your car must be prepped for that power. You will almost have to put equal money into the rest of the car to be able to manage that type of power plant. Your stock rear end, fuel system, suspension and brakes need to go.

By the time you get your car to a state where it an safetly handle that type of motor you shouldn't worry about stock LS1's or cobras. If you go through that much work and you don't beat them then there is something seriously wrong.

That motor alone would cost most people 6 to 8 grand.

 

holy burnouts batman!

 

with those heads, and that cam, your gonna be well over 500hp and should be mid low 11's if right

 

What intake you planning on running with it?

 

Oooops left a few things out. I'm running a Holley stealth ram and I've heard of people being able to use the stock rearend if its built right. Luckily if something does happen to break ive got some cash for it. AHHH yes the engine has been dynoed before and it was pushing 500+ already. I figure running tens is good enough for me and the "street car." Nitrous of course. cant leave home without it! Thanks guys had to boast a little.

 

That camshaft has a lot of lift for that little duration @ .050. Is that a solid roller?

 

If you can't take out most LS1's with that setup please stop driving and buy a Hon-duh

 

Nope its a hydrualic roller. I bought the short block from Jeff (Kandied91z) i guess he never took it to the track for any times.
I'm pretty sure it can get some 11s all motor.

 

Too much cam for street imo.

You know that is an LS1 killer why ask?

Your going to need some nice suspension mods and a built rearend.

I don't see this getting more than 12 mpg

I see many 700-r4 rebuilds in your future

stealth ram will hold you back imo

what lb injectors you going to run?

That setup with everything you need will be close to 9-10 grand, being that you do EVERYTHING yourself.

 

Ewwwww...those hurt (in the pocket). How true!!

 

i think that stealth ram should be fine on that 383

 

I will clarify. That camshaft is perfectly streetable, that is just a lot of lift, it will be hard on valve springs. Why would he need suspension modifications and a built rearend? I have been running 12's and 11's on stock suspension/stock rearend for 3 years now.

 

wow, 3 years? Want a cookie?

I was talking about doing it right, not about what you can do with a case of natural light and a wrench.

 

That is not "doing it right". If this is not going to be a bracket car, there is no reason he needs to do anything to the suspension or rearend if he decides to put this engine in. It is not that hard or expensive to maintain a fast car, but it can be if he decides to listen to people like yourself.

 

So your saying that he should run a stock rear/suspension with a motor that COULD be putting him in the low 11's with good traction?

Your an idiot, and you say you run a car in the 11's/12's just know that it takes a lot to go from "12's" to "11's" I think your full of it.

I think the cam is too much, my opinion I don't think it will be streetable in the least. I wonder what kind of vacuum he will pull at idle?

I know a man that had a 89 TA with homemade subframe connectors that tweaked the frame after a year of abuse and it ran low 13's. The top right cornor of car (above door) was cracked.

If your doing something, why not do it right? If your running so called "12's/11's" then back it up, and if your running "11's" (Which you are not) then you could shave lots of 60 foot times by having a properly tuned susp.

You might as well drink draino as to listen to this nut.

 

hey man everybody has his own opinon some think that streetable means that it will idle at 2grand some say that streetable means it has to pull 18 inches of vacum so it doesnt really matter its all on opinon now for the question as to narrow the rear or keep it stock i say get some money into it. otherwise you will blow your posi unit to hell and you may break otherstuff to like gears axles.etc
jon

 

My car has run a best of 12.28 @ 111.85 @ 1500 feet on the motor, and a best of 11.6 on a small shot of nitrous letting off before the traps. I run a 7.5" 10 bolt and bone stock suspension on 275/50/15 radial T/A tires, not even drag radials. It was a 350HO crate engine, comp XE274 camshaft, super victor intake, 750cfm Speed Demon and a hughes 3000 converter.

That camshaft, in my opinion, is actually a tad small for his setup. My camshaft specs out at 230/236 @.050 and my power brakes work PERFECT, car idles fine around 850 rpm. I have less compression than he has and way less displacement, I don't see why he won't be able to run power brakes as well, even with a larger camshaft.

 

Didnt mention it all but thats total lift at the valves with 1.6 rockers . Its perfectly streetable. Tranny will take a beating yes. I realize that and Im sure i will end up buying something else when i decide to buy my procharger kit next year. kidding thats too much for me.

I knew it would run 12s already and obviously Im boasting, but isnt that the point of street racing? Someone comes up talkin all kinds of garbage about how fast their geo metro is? Then you find out somehow this guys gotta 468 big block with a blower stickin outta the hood.

 

Sounds like an awesome setup, go for it.

 

oh for sure it will be done..I'll have some pics soon
waitin on them damn heads at this point.

 

yea. he should.
that way, he doesnt waste alot of money like morons who think you need to buy all this crap to hook.
i'll point out several 3rd and 4thgens (same rear suspension) who all hook. and to me, a 1.7 is not hooking. consistant 1.6s and lower. on the stock ****.


well, you think wrong, lol.... hes in the low 12s on a budget vortec headded motor... in otherwords, he knows howto gofast, cheap and reliably.... on the spray, hes well into the 11s.

btw, i have a few stock internal LS1 friends deep in the 11s.... if you're good, you can touch high 11s without much work. you just have to know what you're doing. this isnt the 1980s anymore.. we know how to Make power and USE the power we make.


heh, the cam duration is about right... but you wouldnt know dick about the vac hes making because he didnt say the LSA. you couldnt even guess the valve overlap.... probly 112 though...

you're complaining about the cam size? too big?
damn, you must not have a fast SBC...... hell, no wonder 11s are hard for you... you want to go fast with street parts.


1. we dont have frames. Fbodys are unibodys.
2. 90% of the hardtop cars out there have that crack. its VERY common.. a design flaw.. too much stress in that area.
3. i wouldnt even put SFCs on a 13 sec car... id want it as light as possible since its SLOOOW. and if i was making it fast, id skip the SFCs, and let the rollbar brace it...


you can hit 1.4s with tires, LCA relocation brackets, and 90/10s. why the fug would you go replace other parts? so they're powdercoated pretty? because everyone else does? you, AND YOU PERSONALLY, tell me WTF a aftermarket rear lower control arm is going to help...

from your post, it looks like you already did... you sound braindead to me.

how about YOU give us your 11sec slip before you go spouting off advice.

 

500 + hp on the stock 10 bolt rear is not gonna last long

sorry, its the way it is. if it does hook up to handle 1.6's 60 foots, its gonna put a hurtin on that rear differential and axles. 10 bolts are weak and arent too well past 1.7-1.6 60 foots from what i have been seeing. properly built tho, you can flog them and get the most out of your motor.

thats the difference of running a 11.3 at 116mph and a 11.8 at 116. i would do all i can to make my suspension launch at its best... and for the money you spend on that motor, i dont think there is an excuse not to have the rest of the car built up. at least a 6-8point cage in there too, cuz dont most tracks require that if you go 11's?

 

 

Isnt it his choice to use the stock rearend and stuff? If its working for the time being why replace anything and have you considered that maybe he ran out of funds before he could build a stout rearend? Not everybody can afford all the really nice go fast parts some people have..... you got to work with what you got you know.

 

It is his choice indeed but the history of 10 bolts behind 500hp cars is not in his favor.

 

Time will tell.. Im really not tryin to take this thing to the track every weekend and flog the hell out of it.

I have the money to buy a 12 bolt. I dont have time to put it in there before the hot rod power tour.

I have bmr lower control arms, adj panhard, and a spohn torque arm i would say the suspesions well setup. I have an 8 point cage going in this weekend to stiffen the chassis as well as SFCs.

Ahh the cam grind.....a very streetable 112 lsa.

 

see you forgot to mention this and if you had it would have kept some of us from knowing a new dumbass with the cage your car shouldnt be flexing but i still say your not going to get more than 20-30 good launches with that 10 bolt. something will break whether it be axles, u joints, or gears/posi unit

 

Hey well no ones perfect! Whether it be the "new dumbass" or the rest of us.
someone may have to give that guy a hug

 

I think his 10 bolt will last a lot longer than 20-30 passes if it's behind an automatic transmission (which it is).

 

 

well what about 20-30 passes spraying the motor to get it into the 600 hp area? Do you think it will hang then?

 

stock posi in that thing?

just spend the 400-500 bucks for a Eaton or SLP HD posi carrier.

should be able to handle the power for alittle while longer

and sprayin 600hp should be ok on it but time will tell, it will put a hurtin on it.

 

I have an auburn posi 3.73 gear in it as of now, but i plan on ordering some moser 28 spline axles and some other goodies for this thing.

 

230/236 is NOT too much cam for the street on a 388. Idle quality depends on duration, valve overlap, and displacement. Should be a great engine, but it will need some tuning.

 

if you have the 28 spline axles, and you put a stronger 4thgen posi in it, it should last a reasonable length of time.


keep in mind, if you look around, 4thgen posi rears with 3.42 or better gears are dime a dozen... ive personally gotten 3 of them free..


SilentButViolent, one of the local 4thgens, is running a 10bolt, and hes hitting 1.4x 60's........ even the guy at richmond gear said it wouldnt hold, but look at him now.. running atleast 1.5s for a couple months, and now into 1.4s

 

cody kings 2000 z28: 10.77 on a 1.42 60 foot with a stock 4l60e trans and a 4200 converter. the rear is stock with richmond 3.73 gears. it is a bolt on only car(no cam no heads , and no internal mods) with a 100hp shot . it has no wieght taken out of it. it makes 342whp on motor and 435whp on the 100hp shot. it weighs 3380lbs. some people get lucky and never break rear ends, even with very short 60 foot times. i broke my 10 bolt, torsen carrier,richmond geared rear playing around on the street...........

 

well at least we all agree on one thing its not a matter of if it will break its when it will break