HEY@!- Look what I found on E-bay!!!!

eBay Motors: GM RAMJET INTAKE FOR VORTEC HEADS TPI NEW RAM JET (item 8052418050 end time Apr-06-06 20:33:16 PDT)

Any good?

 

damn u really want to beat him badly u should also look into weight reduction. take as much excess weight as possible

 

Depending on how dialed in your tune is, I don't think it will be as bad as everyone else does. With your 3000 stall, traction, and a flat out awesome tune, I think you could go 12s on that combo in a 3rd gen. He will take you from a roll any way you slice it, though. Run from a dig.

 

from a dig would be the plan.. my car doesnt like rolling much.. im saving up for a 10" 28-3000 stall..

Im also looking into a set of Richmond gears 10 bolt 3.73's..

After that and the nitrous, I believe she should be quite healthy huh?

Also, im going to have the exhaust shop fab me up a new better flowing Y pipe.. They F-ed up the one thats on it now.. and it rattles.. so im going to tell them to fix it b/c it drives me F-Ing crazy ....

 

Honestly, I wouldn't get an electric water pump unless you have a safety light rigged up incase it fails suddenly. Otherwise if you aren't watching your temp guage, and it fails.. bye bye to your motor.

Underdrive crank pulleys might be worth one or two hp at the most. Don't bother with an alt underdrive, it won't give you any power and you won't charge your battery as well.

Save your money for nitrous and a tune

 

OK- sounds good.. so the underdrives really arent worth it if its only 1 or 2 hp.... but i've seen them say in magazines that they've gained like up to 22 hp at the wheels by going to and electric water pump..

where would be a place that would know how to tune my car well? Or is that just an experience thing??

 

Hmm tuning is best done by you, with a laptop to datalog and a wideband 02 sensor. That's probably not an option, so finish your bolt ons and get spray, then go to a dyno that knows how to tune TPI setups and get it tuned for the spray.

Here's a dynograph of underdrive pulleys, blue line is a bone stock (well a K&N filter) '96 T/A M6 car, the red line is with an underdrive pulley. You will gain a little bit, but it's truely not worth the money unless you've got the cash to burn.

 

OK Urban- yeah I know that the dyno's dont lie so No its not worth the $$ for the underdrive's..

Z28Evans- You know what, I got to thinking last night and i think i've got one of those intakes layin around... It came off of a Cadillac Northstar V8 though.. and i serioulsy doubt it would match my Vortec heads... I had 2 of these intakes, but i stripped the TB off of one last year and sold it to some import guy for like $80.. lol

Well- im going to the track today so i'll come back with some numbers and probyly be doing some of these-->

 

Hey I learned something!




As far as the nitrous, if you didn't already have Edelbrocks, I would tell you to get the TPiS/AS&M Ported, Polished and Direct Nitrous Jetted Large Tube Intake Runners.. Reason beinging is that Direct Injection is the safest since every cylinder gets an equal amount of N20, creating less stress on the crank. As far as when to hit the switch on the TPI, do it in second gear @ about 4200rpm. The oxygen in the N20 will make up for the lack of air that the TPI350 hits around 4800rpm, making you able to shift @ 58-6200rpm.

 

JUST RUN THE GUY!!

i've "stoplight raced" and beaten ls1 cars including an ss camaro, (twice on that one).

yes the cars are very quick but they can and have been beaten.

although not a side by side race, i was behind an ws6 TA and from a roll he nailed it. i stayed with him till i let off at about 75mph. he had maybe moved up half a car and he was running very low 12s at the strip.


you know the saying.........JUST DO IT. i suspect you will do better that you think.

 

Well--- I went to the track today and found out that my car doesnt get traction on it whatso ever.. My 60ft times wer 2.3 and a 2.03 and the car would just love spinning the tires... especially when it shifted from 1 into 2..

Everyone in the street class except me was running Drag radials and traction bars.. lol.. there were 4 F bodys and 2 monte carlo's..

2 of the F bodys were LT1's one stock w/ K&N kit and the other with Alum heads and LT4 hot cam and other stuff..

the other was a 2g trans am running 12" wide tires w/ a 455 engine..
Also, all had subframe connecters but me..- man, didnt turn out good for me did it.. lol Atleast it was just Test & tune today...

But any time i'd get on it i'd spin the tires.. so i had to ease in and out of the pedal until 3rd gear then i could get on it.. The guys i was talking to said that if i put the drag radials and traction bars on my car i could probably knock off between 1.5 and 2 seconds ( i was runnin high 9's and a 10.. dont laugh i know its sad )
And i told them my plans of going to a 28-3000 stall and 3.73 gears and they all said " Sounds like a great setup!!!"

So, here is my plans for near future mod's..

Lakewood Traction Action Lift bars
possibly Nitto 245/60R16 drag radials
10" 28-3000 stall converter
100Hp wet shot of nitrous
3.73 gears or 4'th gen rear end

What do you guys think??

 

I think it will be quick. Though most people advise against them, I think 3.73s can work really well on TPI cars, especially with a cam. Your weak link is traction though (even with the Nittos), and once that isn't, your tranny is. If you can get it to hook and hold together, you'll have a hard launching s.o.b.

 

Well, my tranny was just rebuilt and i bet i dont even have 1000 miles on it yet....

 

Unfortunately, it's still a 700 though.

 

there is nothing wrong with a 700r4.. my trans is fine.. there are some of them that have been run with the best out there....

 

Not saying it's going to grenade immediately. One built well can take 500 hp. However, it is the weakest part of your setup.

 

Well from your picture your whole car looks weak to me....And you should stop being sutch a hipocrate b/c your sig says your running a 700r4 too buddy .. Thanks and have a nice day



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HEY!! To everyone else who is actually trying to help me dial in my setyp THANKS, and - I was lookin at E-bay 2nite and found me a set of drag slicks..

Here is the link Let me know what you think!!!!
Thanks guys!!!.. as i do not have the bars or anything else yet these should still probably help..

eBay Motors: D.o.t drag tires (item 8050973241 end time Apr-01-06 18:26:28 PST)

 

Okay, listen buddy. You don't need to get your tail all in a knot over this. Did I say that your specific 700 is bad? No. Hell, I'm not even saying that it's likely to go out. I'm just sayin that it's your weak link. In fact, I'm one of the few in here that has said you've actually got a chance against the LS1, so STFU. Grow up, if nothing else. If simply stating that your transmission is the weakest link in your setup offends you, you are childish. Would you rather I say that your engine is the weakest link? Perhaps your axle?

The 700-R4 is the weakest link in your setup. That is a fact. It's not neccesarily a bad thing, it's just a fact. Running slicks/DRs and a stall on it (especially if it's only a stock rebuild with a shift kit) will put you at risk for blowing it out, as it is weaker than other GM autos, like the TH-350 or 400. That is also a fact.

As for the comment about my picture, given that my picture is a whopping 90 pixels by 95 pixels or whatnot, I'm not sure exactly how you even arrive at the conclusion that it's "weak", as about all you can see is that it's a black 2 door Cutlass. Check out SMALLBLOCKPOSSE.COM . There's some cars that look more or less just like mine that would rip your IROC to shreds. I suppose Grand Nationals look "weak" to you, too.

Now, if you're going to continue to be a jackass about this, I'll let you know that you're other weak link is your axle, even if you do go to a 4th gen setup, cause it's still a 10 bolt. Gonna crap your pants over that too? Oh, and I run a 10 bolt as well. Guess that makes me a hypocrite for simply thinking that it's a weak link to a 350+ hp SBC 3rd gen.

I don't want a flame war, but your comment was out of line. Get that thing tuned, be gentle with the 700, and best of luck against the LS1.

 

I happen to be quite the fan of Gran Nationals,I wish i could own one but dont have that kind of $$.. As for weak 10 bolt- yeah i agree.. As far as the LS1 goes, i think im just going to not worry about it and try to get my car dialed in as best as possible.. once i get that done i wont be worried about him at all b/c i will have my nitrous to back me up.. My big thing right now is getting my TV cable tuned completely right ... again.. i had it set good and being the tinkerer i am had to go and mess with it so im going to start over.. Also, no the 700r4 isnt a stock rebuild..

 

Just wanted to throw in that LT1s come stock with aluminum heads

As far as 700R4s go, if you build them, they aren't weak at all. You can build one to take 650hp reliably, however it will be expensive. That's why many people go with TH400s (350s aren't anywhere near as tough as a 400), they can take that near much power damn near stock; they're basically bulletproof.

For a daily, or near daily, driven street rod, a 700R4 is a good box. Or just be a man and get a stick

 

You say that LT1's come w/ aluminum heads- The 94 OBD1 LT 1 that was sitting next to me yesterday had cast iron heads, as well as my buddys LT1 that is in his 78 z28 which is a 94 OBD1 engine also...
Im not calling you a liar, b/c your much more knowlageable than me, but did they change to aluminum heads when they went to OBDII or how come these 2 cars have cast irons?...

 

You could still get a iron headed LT1...they came in the Caprices

Also, how do you know the LT1 that was sitting next to you had iron heads?

 

B/c when we were looking at the LT1 with the alum heads and LT4 package
the guy was like "Damn, he's got Aluminum heads and blah blah blah blah....." and he was like" Mine are stock cast iron..."

and this guy is not a moron or anything he works at Jasper Engines in the rebuilding department...

 

He very well may have said it has "stock cast iron heads" but it doesn't mean his car came with iron heads. Ever think he put them on? As retarded as that may sound he could've. All 'vettes and Fbody's came with aluminum heads.

He also could've been screwing around too.

 

Well, he said he'se only had the car for a couple months.. and the body has 200,000 miles on it.. Maybe someone put a different motor in the car... dunno..

 

Exactly.

 

That's about right. My first time to the track with my stock (well it had cat backs) 1997 C5, I ran a 12.9 in the 1/4....on Good Year run craps....depends on driver and the weight of the vehicle too.