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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 01:22 PM
  #51  
freestylzz's Avatar
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From: Toronto CANADA - GM Parts Rep.
Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: The KING of the 3rd gen TPI's.
Transmission: Beefed up T5
Axle/Gears: Aussie 3.45's
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
thats the LS1 IN a thirdgen. lol

its right in line with the other LS1 cars, but from the outside, it still looks like a stock RS thirdgen....


freestylzz:
1/8th mile track... not quarter.... LOL.
No problem, I had confused your vehicle for "baroner's"........

me
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 01:34 PM
  #52  
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Car: 87 trans am WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
After i put on my new catback, headers, performance chip, and intake system i think ill be runnin with the big boys. Do you think that that will bring me close to 300 horsepower?
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 02:40 PM
  #53  
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From: LaFayette, NY
Car: '10 Subaru Forester
Engine: 2.5 Boxer
Transmission: 4EAT
Axle/Gears: 4.44
Originally Posted by baroner
After i put on my new catback, headers, performance chip, and intake system i think ill be runnin with the big boys. Do you think that that will bring me close to 300 horsepower?
300 Hp is enough to not be embarrassed to show it to the big boys... and no you won't be there, maybe 240 Hp if you have a solid engine.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 03:48 PM
  #54  
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From: Cincinatti OH
Car: 1991 L03 700r4 RS
Engine: 1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
Transmission: Th350 red neck Performance 3k stall
Axle/Gears: 95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
Or you could save your money on all that stuff strap a 120 shot to it and breezily be at 300hp.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 05:55 PM
  #55  
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From: Good 'ol Wisconsin
Car: I've had 4 thrid gens!!
Engine: Someday again I will have another!!
Originally Posted by baroner
After i put on my new catback, headers, performance chip, and intake system i think ill be runnin with the big boys. Do you think that that will bring me close to 300 horsepower?


It takes more then that. NOS!!
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 07:52 PM
  #56  
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Car: 87 trans am WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
I know i can do nos and it will get me up there but nos is very expensive to maintain and is very hard on the engine, plus i dont think its gonna work great with an automatic. You sure about only 240 horses after all that, a couple people told me i should be around at least 280 or more. I forget to mention the cam to.

Last edited by baroner; Jan 17, 2007 at 07:57 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 07:07 AM
  #57  
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From: LaFayette, NY
Car: '10 Subaru Forester
Engine: 2.5 Boxer
Transmission: 4EAT
Axle/Gears: 4.44
Depends on the cam you get, you certainly need catback and headers to make the cam happy... you shouldn't be buying chips until you have the cam in there and it should be custom, most of the "performance chips" on the market are a complete rip-off. As far as an intake system goes, getting cold air into the engine might effect your power output by 2%... I usually just slap on an open element and call it a day.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 10:32 AM
  #58  
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From: Cincinatti OH
Car: 1991 L03 700r4 RS
Engine: 1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
Transmission: Th350 red neck Performance 3k stall
Axle/Gears: 95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
On a 120 hp shot a 10 pound bottle should last you at least 6 passes, after that you will probably need 8 pounds to fill it back up. At 3.25 a pound (cost here) nitrous is actually a bargain. It's not hard on your engine, no harder than any other mod if tuned correctly. If you want serious power gains aside from nitrous port the heads, base, and plenum. This and a cam will really bring your car around. If you want you can siamese your base but I would just stick with a thurougly ported base, siamesed and ported plenum and siamesed runner entries. After this if you're still not running what you wanted nitrous is still a viable option. Remember you don't have to spray it every time and when you're not spraying it cost you nothing extra.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 06:10 PM
  #59  
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From: arkansas
Car: 1928 dodge coupe, 64 1/2 mustang
Engine: 350,289
Transmission: munice 4 speed,c4
Axle/Gears: 9" 3.00, 9" 3.25
Originally Posted by baroner
I know i can do nos and it will get me up there but nos is very expensive to maintain and is very hard on the engine, plus i dont think its gonna work great with an automatic. You sure about only 240 horses after all that, a couple people told me i should be around at least 280 or more. I forget to mention the cam to.
why dont you think nos wont work well with a auto trans must race cars are auto and they run nos.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 07:02 PM
  #60  
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From: Good 'ol Wisconsin
Car: I've had 4 thrid gens!!
Engine: Someday again I will have another!!
Whats a safe amount of NOS to run on stock internals and stock fuel system? Do you have to upgrade the fuel system?
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 08:55 PM
  #61  
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Car: 87 trans am WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
I heard that on an automatic it might grind gears.Oh and by the way, i raced a 99 v6 camaro and had him by a couple cars, maybe im not as slow as i thought i was.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 09:02 PM
  #62  
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From: arkansas
Car: 1928 dodge coupe, 64 1/2 mustang
Engine: 350,289
Transmission: munice 4 speed,c4
Axle/Gears: 9" 3.00, 9" 3.25
good race , as long as its tuned right no problems with nos, i dont know how it would make the gears grind. just make sure tuned right and everything is setup right and all should be good.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 09:44 PM
  #63  
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Car: 87 trans am WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
Thanks, Whats a good cheap brand i could use for nos. Also whats the best brand for some of these other mods im puttin on. catback exhaust, headers, cam, performance chip, and intake. and one more thing, do you think changin the gears up would make a huge difference?
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 10:01 PM
  #64  
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From: arkansas
Car: 1928 dodge coupe, 64 1/2 mustang
Engine: 350,289
Transmission: munice 4 speed,c4
Axle/Gears: 9" 3.00, 9" 3.25
ok, the ones i like are and alot of people may not agree but i have had good luck out of these brands

1. i like nos brand for nos. only one i have used
2.cat-back i like dynomax
3. headers i like hedmen long tubes
4.cams i have had great performance out of crane
5.chips i have used hypertec ,but didnt like it but also had cam change, if did again i would find a dyno and have one custom burned.
6.gears i had 4.10's in mine but was not daily driver. with auto tranny i would use 3.42 or 3.73
again just what i like everyone likes different brands and dislike different brands
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 09:16 AM
  #65  
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
IMO NX makes the best nitrous 'noids.

the 'noids and the nozzle itself (be it a plate, fogger, nozzle, whatever) are what make up the core of the nitrous system.

the rest is nothing but wire and hose... i like quality wire, and custom hose lengths that fit correctly, but really, anything can work... also i like black braid.

i prefer NX or NOS jets... i HATE compucar jets.

generally when i recommend a kit, i recommend one of the NX ones... the noids are the heart of the nitrous system, and i sincerely believe they're the best.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 09:56 AM
  #66  
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From: Good 'ol Wisconsin
Car: I've had 4 thrid gens!!
Engine: Someday again I will have another!!
Wet or dry system for TPI? Where do you guys mount your bottle? I was thinking under my bose speaker tray in the very back of the car, would be stealth. Do you have any links to some good readings on nitrious for a newbie?
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 12:53 PM
  #67  
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From: LaFayette, NY
Car: '10 Subaru Forester
Engine: 2.5 Boxer
Transmission: 4EAT
Axle/Gears: 4.44
Originally Posted by MARO-MAN
Wet or dry system for TPI? Where do you guys mount your bottle? I was thinking under my bose speaker tray in the very back of the car, would be stealth. Do you have any links to some good readings on nitrious for a newbie?
I would only run wet unless it's a small shot like 50 Hp.

This is where it's mounted in my '74, it's mounted at about 20 degrees with the lower end closer to the back of the car: (wrong gen I know)

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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 05:59 PM
  #68  
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From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
Originally Posted by MARO-MAN
Wet or dry system for TPI? Where do you guys mount your bottle? I was thinking under my bose speaker tray in the very back of the car, would be stealth. Do you have any links to some good readings on nitrious for a newbie?
Where the spare tire is at...
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 11:32 PM
  #69  
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From: Cincinatti OH
Car: 1991 L03 700r4 RS
Engine: 1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
Transmission: Th350 red neck Performance 3k stall
Axle/Gears: 95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
NX jets are compucar jets. they quit doing the silly 1 2 3 numbering system a while back now they have the regular numbers on them. Compucar, NX, NOS, Cold Fusion... same solenoids. NX has some solenoids that aren't your standard industry solenoid, they're square and such but I've never seen them in person just in pictures. That being said NX, and Compucar both have lifetime warranties. This is awesome because when you eventually wear out a spring or blow a seal you won't have to pay 29 dollars for a rebuild kit, just send it in and there you go it's like new again. I've personally used Compucar, Nitrous Works, Top Gun, and NOS solenoids and have had no problems with there nitrous solenoids, I have however had problems with a few fuel solenoids. My NOS fuel solenoids have held up well so I have a little brand loyalty there. All said and done I would go with NX, Compucar or NOS. Do keep in mind that NOS uses a different style jet than NX, the NX jets are rounder and shorter.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 09:31 PM
  #70  
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Car: 68 Chevelle
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Don't think that you will win that race Sorry.
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