code 32... what the #$@#
Ya i have one somewhere.. i just looked up the trouble codes off the net!.. You think that is the Map sensor?? hmmm could be..
The check engine lights goes off after about 5 mins... and it hasn't popped back up in a couple of days....
The check engine lights goes off after about 5 mins... and it hasn't popped back up in a couple of days....
32 is egr failure.
Solonoid failure. (Commanded by the ecm, controls vacuum to the egr) If the ecm doesn't detect vacuum, a pressure change (MAP), or temperature change (MAF), it will think the egr is bad and throw a ses light.
Now you just put headers in, are you sure there's no leak there? The egr relies on backpressure to function. Ensure the egr has the vacuum cable attached to it and it freely moves up and down. Then check the solenoid and ensure proper vacuum is coming from it. Just rev it a bit at a constant rpm and odds are if working, the solenoid will command egr.
Have you run rich recently? When was the last time you cleaned up the inner engine? You'd be surprised at all the carbon chunks the egr passage has when its blocked.
Funny thing is, I just recently got a 32 as well, but it only occurred twice and since then I used revive cleaner on the engine. She responds a whole lot better and no code since then. Hoping it managed to clear up the passages ok without me having to dig at the egr. I'm hoping the egr is ok since I only got it <1 year ago.
Me, code 32 and egr go back a long long time... I learned the hard way why an egr is important...
Solonoid failure. (Commanded by the ecm, controls vacuum to the egr) If the ecm doesn't detect vacuum, a pressure change (MAP), or temperature change (MAF), it will think the egr is bad and throw a ses light.
Now you just put headers in, are you sure there's no leak there? The egr relies on backpressure to function. Ensure the egr has the vacuum cable attached to it and it freely moves up and down. Then check the solenoid and ensure proper vacuum is coming from it. Just rev it a bit at a constant rpm and odds are if working, the solenoid will command egr.
Have you run rich recently? When was the last time you cleaned up the inner engine? You'd be surprised at all the carbon chunks the egr passage has when its blocked.
Funny thing is, I just recently got a 32 as well, but it only occurred twice and since then I used revive cleaner on the engine. She responds a whole lot better and no code since then. Hoping it managed to clear up the passages ok without me having to dig at the egr. I'm hoping the egr is ok since I only got it <1 year ago.
Me, code 32 and egr go back a long long time... I learned the hard way why an egr is important...
Last edited by Slade1; Jul 22, 2002 at 06:13 AM.
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 956
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: L98 5.7 L
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Baro sensor is code 32 for the earlier models. If you look in the Haynes manual on page 174 under Emission control systems you will see that it states Baro sensor switch. But, if you look in the 1985-89 supplement on page 316 it has the codes there and says it's an EGR failure. I was almost cunfused by this as well. I told 92Zeddar the same thing, last night.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 722
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: LQ4 6.0L
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.55 8.8
My 86 used to throw a 32 (on a TPI) on long highway hauls after swapping in the 6speed. Never affected performance though. Might get about 5 or 10 a year over 20 000kms. I think my problem was the temperature sensor that threads into the egr itself. If it doesn't read high enough with the egr on ie gasses passing through it, it thinks the valve is inoperative.
I fixed it by swapping to an lt1!
I never worried too much about it, just shut the key off and back on again to get rid of the light.
I fixed it by swapping to an lt1!
I never worried too much about it, just shut the key off and back on again to get rid of the light.
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