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re & re a clutch

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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 09:13 AM
  #1  
palric's Avatar
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From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
re & re a clutch

Ever since I installed the Jacobs system and run through 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears at WOT I get a sickening burnt clutch smell. Just a wiff it doesn't last long and the clutch seems to work ok otherwise.

On the one hand this may be good as it indicates the Jacobs system is making more power which is obvious when you are behind the wheel. On the other hand I may be looking at a new clutch and that sucks I just paid $500 for injectors (wah, wah, wah...).

I figure burnt clutch means slipping clutch even if only at extremes of performance. Is this common ? My '88 never did this but then my '88 did not make this kind of torque either.

Oh yeah, I can put it in 5th and 20kmh and floor it running all the way up to 120kmh and the clutch does not slip at all.

If I end up having to re & re the clutch does anyone have an idea of what kind of work it is ? Should I just get a new clutch kit and send it into the shop or DIY in my garage ???

thx,
RP.
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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 09:52 AM
  #2  
Cruz'N Bruz'R's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: 87 Iroc Z
Engine: 383ci.
Transmission: WC-T5
I don't have a clue why that would make that burn a clutch. I know an ignition box adds power, but I don't think it would be near enought to burn out your clutch. If it is your clutch, maybe it's just coincidence that it's starting to wear out just as your box went in.

Anyways. i've had shops do my first two clutch's, and I've done the last two, and kick myself for having someone else do the first two. they're simple. If you can jack the car up enough. You can do it yourself in about 4-5 hours(realistically).
Drop the tranny and remove the pressure plate from the flywheel. Then the best thing is to buy the kit. most kits will supply the alignment tool. Align it up while bolted the pressure plate to the flywheel and then if it's aligned right, the rest is a snap. The trick to removing, and installing the T% in our small tunnels is canting the tranny about 10-15 degrees counterclockwise. I wish I would have known this before it would have saved me and AcceldZ about 2 hours of stress time.
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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 11:13 AM
  #3  
palric's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
20 Year Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 2
From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
Well I just took it out at lunch and did two WOT runs through 3rd gear and my passenger whom I brought along especially to 'smell for clutch' did not smell anything. I did not smell anything either.

What do you suppose the chances are that I caught someone else's clutch burn that last two times ? No kidding this clutch pulls hard and shows no sign of slip at all in fact on the 1st to 2nd power shift the tranny moves alot and the car starts to go sideways but there is no noticeable clutch slip. ??????????

Just in case I'm going to have to get myself a Haynes and will prepare to pull the tranny myself. I already have jacks and ramps the kind that you drive the car up on it gives about a 2 foot lift at the tranny is two feet enough room to work that enough ?

Ever had a clutch, plate and flywheel balanced together ?

thx for the help,
RP.
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