Back to the old cold / wet running problems...I just barely made it to school today, ugh....so here it is. Car fires up fine in the cold, no problem...once it reaches normal operating temp, however, it surges and cuts out all over. Have to floor it from a stop, otherwise no other amount of fuel given results in any results...sputters, coughs, etc. I popped the hood when I made it to school, and the plenum was cold enough for me to touch and leave my hand on....?? What's the deal with that? I mean, it's warm, but noththing near hot....and the temp display shows nothing too out of the ordinary, maybe a tick lower due to the cold weather. I also added weight to the rear, though I don't think it should matter....I'm at your mercy here guys, what's the deal with this damn thing...??? I need it on the road for a ways longer until the Tecel is fully good to go, so....I desperately need some help. =\

Jer

 

hmmm...well ...you are getting spark and fuel initially.

cap, rotor, wires and plugs in good shape?

how about the fuel filter, is it new/clean?

could also be bad injectors or injectors that are going bad.


possiblely a fuel pump....


theres some ideas to get you started till someone who knows something about FI cars comes in here

 

I had a similar problem with my dodge many years ago,the thermostat was stuck open and the car never really got a chance to warm up to the proper operating temp. It would stutter and run like crap after it had been operating for a while. How old is your thermostat?Of course it could be one of those damn sensor thingies. This couldn't be a maf problem could it?I don't have one of those so I can't help you. The big board would be a good source of info. Good luck Jer

 

Wires/plugs are new...might as well do the cap, rotor soon.........I know the fuel filter needs changing, too.............hmm....

 

Ok, here we go...went out to turn it over, recently it's been a biittt harder to start, as I thought due to increasing cold...but it appears to be a bit more then that. Tried to turn it over, kind of went "rrrr..." like it was starting to turn over...then dead. Nada. Took the key out, waited half a minute, tried again....turned over, just barely, and fired up. Hope this is another clue - ovbiously a spark/ignition issue, hopefully causing the same problems?> I'm by no means a vehicle guru, but would love to fix this myself to avoid repair costs....thanks again.

 

I'd definitely replace the cap/rotor. My truck started to do the same thing last winter (violent shaking and sever loss of power) while in the passing lane on the QEW. Only when hot; it ran fine when it was cold. For the price of a new cap/rotor set it's worth a shot.

 

You might have multiple problems causing this, have you had any indicator lights on in the dash?

I'd check the cap, rotor, wires and plugs to make sure they're all ok to start with since they're relatively cheap and easy to change. You'll also want to check the fuel filter since thats pretty easy to do and cheap to replace.

From the way you describe it, it might also be a starter on its way out the door. If you pull if off the car and then take it to a Canadian Tire store they can test it at the counter for you for free.

Other than that the next possible thing to check might be the fuel pressure regulator..? I don't know I'm just guessing but that could be a place to start looking.

 

I would start with the cap rotor and fuel filter - then try and start it. The shrader valve is really easy to get to on those v6's..find someone with a fuel pressure guage and do a leakdown test. Might be an injector problem - but I don't think so.

 

Are the battery terminals full of crud? Sometimes that'll cause hard starting problems and perhaps drivability issues if the battery is not accepting a proper charge.

 

I would have to say it sounds like a starter prob. Either bad connection or even a bad wire. BUt it sounds like the starter is creating to much draw. Check your connection at the battery and the starter itself for corrosion. I would start here then chase after the ignition wires and other electrical stuff. Just my thoughts. Hope it helps.

 

My money's on ignition coil, but I'll hold any bets...find out in a few days, eventually I'll figure out something..in the meantime...Tercel! Slow, no torque, bad brakes....but point a - point b? Awesome! Only 107 thou km's on it, too...lol....great steal for free, I'd say....thanks again, friends.

 

Just before my starter went it decided to just plain stall on me a few times. Starting was also tending to take longer, but this happened over a year.

As for thermostat, if it doesn't get to temp it can bounce back and forth between open and closed loop and while its doing it it can't decided whether to run rich to warm up or follow the o2 sensor...

I ran with a busted open thermostat for half a winter though and aside from not being able to run my heater, it ran absolutely fine though.

It's a different matter with my ram air setup though now. It'll go to closed loop in under 5 mins, but as soon as I start driving I take in lots of cold air, it ****s the o2 because the air temp suddenly dropped and after 2 seconds of running its back to open loop. (If I stick it in neutral park, rpm is back to 1500.) Still it doesn't sputter like that.

So start with the basics. Coil is a good bet, but it would be even worse during warm up because it takes more energy to spark the mixture when cold.

I'd look at your Idle Air Control and see if that's ok. Ensure your fuel pressure is good too.

More on the IAC.. try cleaning it first and see if that helps.

Next... a rip from Vader...

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Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

Tools needed:
1. Digital Volt-Ohm-Meter (VOM)
2. Breakout jumper wires or probes (make your own)
3. AutoXray, Diacom, or similar scanner will replace the VOM and jumper wires.

Turn on ignition, but don't start the engine.

With a diagnostic scanner: plug in the scanner and read the TPS voltage. It should be 0.54Volts +/- 0.07 VDC.

Connect the VOM to the TPS electrical connector terminals ‘A' and ‘B'.

With a breakout jumper: Disconnect the electrical connector from the TPS. Install the breakout in-line, between the TPS and wiring harness connector. Connect the meter probes to terminals 'A' and 'B' on the connector. (‘B' is the positive connection, ‘A' the signal ground, or negative.)

With probes: If you have very slender probes on your VOM, you can back-probe the TPS connector while it is attached to the TPS. If you have made probes of large dressmakers pins or a similar item, you can back-probe the connector as well. Connect the meter probes to terminals 'A' and 'B' on the connector.

Turn on the ignition to read the TPS output voltage at the idle position. The reading should be 0.54VDC +/- 0.07VDC. The ideal is the center of the range, 0.54VDC for a stock engine. To adjust the output voltage, loosen the two Torx screws holding the TPS to the throttle body, and slightly rotate the TPS up or down, reading the voltage until it comes into specification. Tighten screws. Using the throttle lever, rotate the throttle to WOT (wide open throttle). The TPS voltage should be over 4.0 volts. Close the throttle again, and then slowly open it to WOT, observing the voltage reading. It should increase progressively and in a linear fashion. If it sticks or jumps or falls off at all while doing this check, the TPS sensor may be failing and could be a cause of stumbling and driveability problems.

After achieving the desired setting, turn off the ignition switch. Remove all jumpers or the scanner and reconnect the TPS connector as required.

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Slade10000000 got it..Do the IAC/TPS first then check for codes..I would also check the IAT/MAT..I duuno what car/engine you have so its a guess..its a temp sensor found in the plenum on V8's and on the snorkel of V6's

Daz