I dont know if anyone had this problem before.
Im running an 87 350 TPI auto setup with remote coil, car is running terrible doesnt stay on unless I throttle it, wires, distributor and timing are all good, after the car runs for like 5 mins at 1200-2000 rpm the spark plug wires get extermly hot on both sides.
I do have headers but the drivers side isnt close enough to heat, pass side is but the plugs are good and protected.
Could it be the remote coil, the computer, its as if the wires are heating from the inside out.

 

If the wires are "heating up from the inside out" it's the wires themselves that are the likely culprit. Excess energy is given off as heat, and heat is also created in the transmission device when resistance is high (in this case the wires). The only way to try and blame the coil itself is if it somehow magically started doubling it's output and the excess energy from it gets absorbed by the wires. However- a coil is just that, a coil of wires- so it can't "improve" itself and produce a higher output- it can only go bad and reduce the amount/eliminate its output- it isn't causing a "hot wire" problem. Maybe the plugs are too high in resistance- did you use some funky type of plug- or try gapping them to something stupid like .060"?

 

Could be the TPS ,sounds like it to me

 

Im thinking might be ignition module, I have an intake leak in the back, the distributor wires got some oil on it, I think it might of short the module.

 

TPS is brand new AC Delco and tested, took out the ignition module had it tested and it works fine.
The hookup cable to the module looked terrible, the connector just broke to peices so maby it wasnt getting a good signal?
Running out of ideas...maby MAF sensor?

 

OK not trying to put you on a wild goose chase with 20 different things to look at here. Do you have and engine light present?? This truely sounds like and EGR issue. If your EGR is stuck open, it will cause this exact issue you are discribing.

 

I had a code 32 before, I removed the EGR, plugged the EGR housing and car ran the same, reinstalled the EGR after cleaning, no codes.
Its running the same only now it stays on but idles bad.
I have no ideas, tried a differnt coil, Im clueless...

 

OK then... you need to be sure your TPS is set properly, and might as well relearn your IAC also. here is the article to do both.

https://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2

now if this does not help any, and you have checked your ignition completely and all checks out good, you will want to check your fuel pressure, and or injection.

 

I cant even do that, car just dies if I dont throttle it.
I checked fuel pressure looks good, mind you I dont have a proper way to measure it but it squirts good from the fuel rail, maby injectors...maby ecu?

 

I'v had 2 car's do that, the one was the MAF and the other turned out to be the injectors

 

Mine did that, and my MAF was gone.

 

Same problem here as well, MAF sensor.

 

MAF looks good, wire is intact, as for injectors, they were tested not even a year ago and were all good.
Its not giving any codes so its hard to pin point the problem, if it were MAF wouldnt it give a code?

 

run it without the MAF and see if it runs the same way.OR tap it while its running..

 

I take it your alternator is cranking out sufficient voltage?

I think you should also have that computer checked out.

 

I say MAF or Injectors. I had my injectors tested and replaced them 2 weeks after they checked out fine. One injector was stuck open, plug was BLACK, changed the injectors and my life got a whole lot easier!! I dealt with my car not starting and running like crap for months before I changed my injectors, I think I changed every sensor under the hood trying to figure it out. The reason you are having to "throttle it" is because you are needing those blades open for that extra air to burn up the dumped fuel.

 

Took off MAF car idled flat without stalling but still struggled, through code.
MAF back on car ran the same rough but stayed idling without stalling.
I have ticking noises from the passenger side,strange sound.

 

Thanks for the help guys, ends up my timing was off, number 8 and 3 wires were burnt, my intake setup was sucking air behind the MAF and the pass side header gasket blew.
Thing is the car ran fine till then, so you always think the worse.

 

Good find, those kinda problems are a real pain in the ***!!