May have finally found a ride but need some input.89 Iroc ragtop,305 Tpi,auto,160000 kms,fully loaded,everything works.Front spoiler is split,drivers rear quarter is dented,rear window cracked and discoloured,top is ok.Rest of body is good with minimal rust.Needs injection system work,he was quoted from a reliable mechanic at $1500.Can probally do that work myself and save the labour cost.This is a fixer upper over the winter so the question is it worth $2750 cdn.This will be my first 3rd gen after a long wait of always wanting one.So should i keep looking or go with it.Thanks for any input.

 

If you don't take it I will...actually I can't...I already own an 89 5.7L IROC T-top, and just purchased a 70 Chevelle, but that sounds like a great deal! With a little bit of TLC and sweat, and a small investment, you can turn that car into a real looker. Keep in mind that with the unfortunate demise of the F-body, the value of that car can only get better...grab it while you can if you dont mind working a little on it...you can locate parts for these cars very reasonable in scrap yards, off this website, off e-bay and especially at swap meets - saw a front clip for an IROC at the last swap meet here in Ancaster in fact. When all that fails, there is always Year One...

 

With tax it's going to be about $3000 if you have to declare the price at $2750. You may also have to cough the $20 for the vehicle transfer package and the Ministry will want another $10 service charge before they will lift their snouts and talk to you.

I'm guessing that it's not certified or e-tested so that could add a bit particularly if you have to pay $450 for a conditional pass on the e-test. Front spoiler is about $75.00 from GM.

Then there's the bodywork and whatever it costs do the injection system yourself as well as the things that, like anyone else, you've probably missed.

I'd say offer him $2000.

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I was going faster than I'd ever gone before but then I fell off.

 

Thanks for the input guys.Will be talking to him tommorrow.I thought there would be a few more posts than two.Car only needs a pair of skins for safety,not e-tested.

 

Make sure any convertible specific parts are in good shape because they are hard to find and very expensive(and you cannot get them from GM).I got a full set of Acell injectors from Cruzin performance in Michigan for less than 450.00 Canadian.It sounds like a resonable price. See if you can get a look under the car to check for rust, or any signs of further accident damage.A new back window will run you about $300.00 installed. Make sure the latches are in good shape, they will run you 250 each if you can find them.Check the condition of the rear trunk spoiler, most of the low end converts I looked at had broken spoilers.My top is in fair condition, but I will have to replace it within a few years at a cost of $2000.00(so I've been quoted), I'll have to look stateside for a better deal.

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1990 Iroc convertible,305 tpi,Black with black leather interior,lowered,Taylor 8mm wires,K&N's,gutted airbox

 

I'm looking for another 3rd gen Ragtop, if this car is still for sale I would be interested.

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89 TTA #1415
81 TTA NASCAR

www.krif.com/tta
www.krif.com/gratiot
www.krif.com/st_ignace
www.krif.com/woodward

 

Have been trying to get a hold of this guy for 3 weeks now.No return calls,i assume it is sold but a phone call would be nice.

 

That car was too cheap...I'm sure it's gone by now, probably sold the first day or 2.

....and by offering 2 grand is the way you lose the car.


Was that in the TRIAD ?

 

I dunno...I got my '87 for, after certification work, $1500...though it's only a 2.8 w/o T-tops, it'sgot all other options, including a few performance mods...chances are, another vehcile will come along and you'll be glad you waited.

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Personal mods to come mid-spring.

 

There's a GTA in town still, I think. He wanted 6500 bux for it, ran nice, clean, interior needed TLC. It s red with tan leather interior.. If he still has it, he may go down on the price.

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1988 Pontiac Trans Am GTA L98 5.7L, Black on Black with 114,000kms.

Best ET 14.559 @ 95.25MPH
Custom 3" Stainless Exhaust Y-Pipe back (High flow Cat and Flowmaster Mufler)

 

Finally found my sweet ride.85 IROC 305 HO,5spd,t-tops,fully loaded,black on grey,orginal body/paint,stored winters,128000kms,$4300 safetied.After 6mths of looking thought it was worth the coin.Seen alot of well used and abused 3rd gens out there.Need help on pwr windows,not working,checked fuses,where do i start?Also electric fan does'nt kick in.Where are the relays located,what else can i look for?What's the best repair manual for these cars?Have some time to fix these while it's in the garage for the winter.Looks great beside my 97 Mach 1,nice package.Thanks for any help.

 

My first 3rd gen was an '85 Z28. I think I put about 300,00kms on it before it was stolen and destroyed in '92. I had it pretty much from new and found out everything I needed to know about sbc's from owning that car. Along time ago in a galaxy far, far away... I once owned a '69 MACH 1. That car had alotta style too.

I had a friend who owned a pristine white '85 IROC with the HO setup. A bit beefier cam, exhaust and 1.92 intake valves. It was carbureted and I think the car made 190hp and 280lbs torque from the factory. As I remember it the car was very fast in the 0-80 range but fell off at the top -- needed some simple mods.

The power window motors are common cause for failure. They are a pain to replace but can be done in your back-yard. On my '85 I replaced the heater switch unit at the console to repair a 'dead fan'. If possible try to apply power directly to the heater motor and power window motors to see if they work ? Not a very scientific conclusion but... electrical problems (as in wiring) are not typical of Chevs so I would expect your problem to lie in either the switch or the motor and not the wiring in between.

BTW: 85's were notorious for T-roof and trunk leaks. Unless something has been done to yours to prevent leaks you can expect some frustrating moments during car washes and thundershowers. Let me know if you need some ideas on what to do about leaks in 3rd gens. (I have a number of 'fixes' and I think the 3rd gen site has some tech articles as well).

My 3rd gen buying spree (started last spring) isn't over yet either. It took me about about 3 1/2 years looking to find my current 3rd gen and will start the search for another 3rd gen, this time an '85 IROC, next spring. The unit I am looking for is hopelessly rare. Hardtop, 5-speed, light blue (only about 200 made) with the HO options including the Recaro seat option for ('85 only). Well who knows eh ? Give it a few years and I might find it. I am looking forward to getting back into a carbureted 3rd gen.

Seasons Greetings,
RP.

 

Thanks palric for the info.Maybe a little confusion here,the Mach 1 is a Ski-doo and the electric fan was for the cooling system not the heater mtr.Thanks again.

 

Palric it would be great also for some ideas and fixes for the t-roof leaks.Was told by the seller there is 1 in roof and passenger door near triangle piece/mirror.Will probally be investing in some weather stripping.Wheres a good aftermarket place for that.Thanks.

 

I'm glad to hear your Mach 1 is a ski-doo. I had heard the MACH Mustang was revived a few years back (although this time the MACH was for a stereo option if you can believe that) and just assumed you were referring to this ?
I neglected to say that my old '69 Mustang was so rusted out that pieces of it would fall off over pot-holes. Learned my lesson about Fords way back then -- IMHO they haven't gotten any better to-date.

RP.

 

Well before you go buying new rubber seals be sure to make an attempt to revive the ones you have. You can find a variety of compounds that will restore them to 'life'. GM has a product that retails for about $5 that is silicon based that I use -- I apply it about once a month.

If the weather strips are damaged you can fix the tears or cuts using common black gasket goop (I use the stuff from Canadian Tire). After it dries it turns into black weather stripping.

Most common problems with the rubber weather stripping (either of which can cause leaks) that I have seen are:

1) the rubber seals get flattened out or compressed over the years from the pressure of the t-roofs themselves (apply silicon treatment).
2) after time the car's body shifts which alters the adjustment of the t-roofs (you can adjust the t-roofs from the mount points at either end).

Furthermore, the metal strip bisecting the two t-roofs at the centerline is a real problem as well. One of the first things I did after buying my '91 was to take apart the stripping around this piece and thoroughly sprayed the metal structures with a can of RustCheck then re-assembled the stripping. I remember my '85 developed rust where the center-piece attached to the roof member -- wish I knew then what I know now.

Most 3rd gens leak at the back-end of this metal center strip where it meets the painted body panel or roofline -- there is a gap that water seeps into, ends up soaking the back seats and carpet area. By sealing this gap with 'gasket goop' the leak goes away. As I remember it the '85s had it pretty bad -- I know mine was a real pain until it was fixed.

Since my 'fixes' I can drive my '91 through a Southern Ontario rainstorm and it DOES NOT not leak...

RP.

 

Thanks for the info.will be trying the restore method first,then trial and error adjusting the roof with a simulated storm.