My car will run fine for the first five minutes or so, but when it gets warmed up i can pull up to a stop light and it surges and wants to die, then when i take off it keeps stuttering until i get up to speed. Its like its searching for the right air/fuel ratio or soemthing. Anyway i hooked it up to a scanner and it showed a code 32, so i replaced the EGR valvue - solenoid - and EGR temp sensor. I had also replaced the O2 sensor and bought a new MAF the other week. I'm not getting any trouble codes anymore but its still running like sh*t!!! I'm getting sick of dumping money into working out the bugs and not getting any results.

Another diagnosis i was thinking of was the stock PROM. When i built my 383 i got a computer out of an 87 IROC that had a 350 but i'm still using my 305 PROM. All my mods are in my sig. I just dont understand why it runs great until it hits closed loop operation (normal operating temps). Any info would be awesome. Thanks Guys

 

It can be a PITA, but you're making progress; the code 32 is gone.

That symptom sounds like my recent problems with a failing MAF. It would sometines idle fine for a while and then surge badly and even stall. After eliminating other possibilities I swapped a known good MAF from my LB9 into the L98 and the L98 leveled right out. Now I'm looking into the Wells MAF as a replacement for the stock Bosch.

Look into the front of the MAF and have someone start the engine and, after a minute or so shut it off. You should see the MAF wires glow bright red for 1-2sec. If not replace the MAF burn-off relay. If so replace the MAF power relay. These aren't big $$ items.

You might check all vacuum lines for cracks or opens.

 

Thanks, i guess i am making progress, just seems way to s l o w. Anyway, the burnoff relay is on the firewall of the passenger side right? And i'm not quite sure were the power relay is. I'm going out to see if she lights up or not right now.

 

Ok, i let it run for 2 minutes and shut it off...no glow. So i figured i'd just order both the power and burnoff relay. I called NAPA and they said that thier computers only listed one relay, so i called another local auto parts store and they said they only had MAF relays listed for Corvettes!!! How would i go about finding both relays??? Someone please help....

 

OK FYI, for my '86 IROC high on the firewall, between the left fender and the brake booster, are:
MAF burnoff relay-#14078907
Fuel Pump relay-#1407897
ESC module
In front of the ESC is the MAF power relay-#1407897

Furthermore TPIS lists these parts:
P/N 300-171-MAF B-O/FP relay, '85-'87 Vette, Camaro, Firebird-$13.38
P/N 300-172-MAF Power relay, '85-'87 Vette, Camaro, Firebird-$9.32
P/N 300-173-MAF P-O/FP/Maf Power relay, '88-'95 Vette,Camaro,Firebird-$16.50

 

Thats all i needed to know, thanks again.

 

ok did i just read this right? you have a 305 wire harness a 350 computer and a 305 prom all trying to work with a 383? when you go to closed loop is when the computer realy starts to look at the information coming from the sensors. Before closed loop it looks at coolant temp, rpm and other things that will have less efect on closed loop.
have you tryed to force the computer into limp mode? If so did it run better?
it semms to me that you are trying to make the computer work with something it cant handle. Its recomended that a diplacement increase of more than 10% you need to have a chip burned. you have a 305 chip in a 383. How lean is you fuel/air? the best place to start trouble shooting your car would be the prom.

 

Pretty much buddy. It does sound bad dosnt it. Theres only one problem, dont have the money or experience to burn my own chips and i cant find anyone around here that is capable of doing it either.