TPI has way to much torque

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Apr 28, 2002 | 09:32 AM
  #1  
TPI has to much torque, Im glad I am going to the stealth ram and loosing a little bit in the lower end. If I am in first gear off the line on the road, I'll take it easy off the line just to get it rolling then 1/2 way through first punch it, and they still break free, spin till it shifts and now with my high-perf. rebuilt tranny the spin the begining of second too. Now I know I have a 3.42 posi rear, and 45 series tires, but still its annoying.

any idea what I do have as far as HP and TQ I got L98, edelbrock headers, catco cat, borla 3 cat-back, jet chip, ported/siamesed plenum, slp siamese runners, suncoast ram air.

also what ya think I'll have when I install my new stealth ram?
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Apr 28, 2002 | 10:11 AM
  #2  
You can go over to www.fl-thirdgen.org and we have a dyno page up over there. We had 8 cars run, and I think 6 were L98 cars with various mods, so that should give you some idea.
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Apr 28, 2002 | 10:52 AM
  #3  
You havn't seen TQ yet. Just add a cam and a good set of heads then you'll have problems.
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Apr 29, 2002 | 07:53 AM
  #4  
No such thing as too much torque
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Apr 29, 2002 | 08:17 AM
  #5  
Yeah, whats up with that?
Why did GM arm the L98 with so much tq. And relatively low HP. I mean I love being able to smoke those tires for my friends on command but it kinda hurts me when Im racing.
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Apr 29, 2002 | 05:19 PM
  #6  
too much torque? you make it sound like its a bad thing
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Apr 29, 2002 | 07:04 PM
  #7  
true there is no such thing as To MUCH, but there is a lot. and its not always desirable if you dont have a lot of $$$ into your suspension.
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Apr 29, 2002 | 07:28 PM
  #8  
Given the heads, cam and exhaust and relatively restrictive intake, i'd say the L98s made great power and phonomenal torque. Consider the LT1 moved forward with a higher lift cam, more compression, great flowing aluminum heads, and a much better flowing intake, as well as a much more refined and inteligent engine management system and was only around 0.4s quicker in the 1/4 mile than the last L98s says a lot for the overall balance GM put into it IMO.

But damn right, put some heads and a good intake on it if you want to go really fast. Or run a siamesed base to stay stock appearing.
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Apr 29, 2002 | 08:37 PM
  #9  
There is absolutely nothing wrong with too much torque, its just that he L98 puts all its torque in one place. dow low is good, but it just needs o be brodened throughout the rest of the power band.
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Apr 30, 2002 | 02:06 AM
  #10  
[QUOTE]Originally posted by John Millican
You havn't seen TQ yet. Just add a cam and a good set of heads then you'll have problems. [/QUO

Thats what I was going to say.You think you have problems now do those mods including headers on a stock suspension and punch it off the line and youll spin until you le off the gas.
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Apr 30, 2002 | 09:13 AM
  #11  
Quote:
then 1/2 way through first punch it
It's quite simple, you don't 'punch it' on any powerful engine. Smooth roll on will allow you to tap into far more power then punching it. I can't think of any powerful car that won't spin the tires if you punch it halfway through first.
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Apr 30, 2002 | 09:21 AM
  #12  
Im wierd, even though I beat people whos cars I think are fast, I dont think of my car as fast.

probobly the reason I got the Holley S/R
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Apr 30, 2002 | 07:15 PM
  #13  
I'm sorry, but how can you not think it's fast? Go out side and look at it! It just looks fast! You could have a 2.8l in there and I'd think it was faster then mine!
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Apr 30, 2002 | 11:28 PM
  #14  
There's no such thing as "too much" torque. Its when you make the torque that matters. Power is a function of torque and rpms. Increasing torque and/or moving that torque curve higher up is what makes more power. Problem with TPI is that it places this torque fairly low which creates traction problems but it doesn't keep it up at higher rpms which limits horsepower.
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May 1, 2002 | 01:59 AM
  #15  
you guys know nothing about too much torque......

<----12psi, headers, and TPI

i had a problem with the nittos hookn'
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May 1, 2002 | 05:50 AM
  #16  
lift bars, sub fram connectors, panhard bar, torque arm, control arm, and a drive shaft loop will eventually be my answer to no traction.
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May 2, 2002 | 06:20 AM
  #17  
I had the same problem. I was borring rims w/ tires from people trying to get traction. Finally, I tried a set of Mickey Thompson E/T slicks. LIke night and day. Once you run 'em, you'll want more torque..

Btw, I punch it out of the gates. 6200RPM and drop the clutch. When I ran the street tires, I couldn't punch it til second.

-- Joe
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May 2, 2002 | 10:20 AM
  #18  
Quote:
Originally posted by 87irocz350
Yeah, whats up with that?
Why did GM arm the L98 with so much tq. And relatively low HP. I mean I love being able to smoke those tires for my friends on command but it kinda hurts me when Im racing.
They did it so nuts like me could put on on a 406 and put it in a K5 BLAZER................love that torque!
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May 2, 2002 | 10:47 AM
  #19  
Put on a set of SSM SFCs and some tubular LCAs. You'll be surprised at how much better it will hoook.

Also tires and inflation realy matter. On the IROC I run 35psi highway and 31-32psi strip, with streets.

If you don't care about handling so much you might consider a set of drag shocks and lose the front sway bar.

Raise your shift poins to stay in 1st longer.

Unless you want to see real street hookup problems do NOT install a hi stall TC.
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May 2, 2002 | 06:02 PM
  #20  
I don't think enough people have said it yet, so here gos; There is no such thing as too much torque!

Now with that out of the way;

Quote:
Originally posted by 86FyrBrd
lift bars, sub fram connectors, panhard bar, torque arm, control arm, and a drive shaft loop will eventually be my answer to no traction.
Hows that drive shaft loop gonna help with your traction problems? Sorry, I'm just giving you $hit 'cause I'm jealous of your Stealth Ram! :hail:

I wish my car had some torque!
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May 2, 2002 | 07:08 PM
  #21  
Quote:
lift bars, sub fram connectors, panhard bar, torque arm, control arm, and a drive shaft loop will eventually be my answer to no traction.
And Those lift bars work real well on our rear coil suspensions..
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May 2, 2002 | 07:23 PM
  #22  
Lift bars, Not Traction Bars, and yeah they do work great with our coil spring suspension
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May 2, 2002 | 07:49 PM
  #23  
Until you find a need to turn.. hah.
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May 2, 2002 | 09:03 PM
  #24  
I'v heard from people they work great, whats wrong with turning, my friend even has a set and his car rides nice.
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May 2, 2002 | 09:05 PM
  #25  
Lakewood Lift Bars
Lakewood Traction...Action Lift Bars work with axle torque to lift and load the chassis. This forces the wheels downward "planting the tires", transferring power to the pavement and eliminating wheel hop for improved traction and straight line launch. Traction..Action Lift Bars are engineered for easy bolt-on installation with no welding required! Legal for NHRA stock eliminator classes. These bars feature an "adjustable" load control strut to allow right or left side suspension pre-load for fine tuning the chassis under various track conditions. Manufactured from heavy-gauge square steel tubing to prevent flex or bending and featuring an attractive black powder-coated finish to resist corrosion. Includes polyurethane bushings for positive suspension control and stability, and grease fittings for ease of lubrication.
Part # Application Price
LAK-21700 Traction Action Lift Bars 1982-2000 Camaro-Firebird 259.95
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