where can i get a stealth ram for my 92 305 Z28, and is it worth the money? thanks

 

 

Just wanted to pass some info. YOUR STOCK COIL IN CAP HEI DISTRIBUTOR WON,T FIT, BUT THE HOLLEY #billet distributor # 890-160 or SMALL CAP G.M. HEI with remote mount coil with the HOLLEY PN#534-138 adapter will fit.(you can very easily make this wireing adapter yourself from salvage yard parts, I made 1 for under $7)
The price at Summit for the lower and upper (unpolished) is 279.99 (7540)
The fuel rail kit which you need is 173.69 from Summit (534-185) Less than $500 total.
The results given are from the chassis dyno. A 1-2-3 gear pull (700R4) was done. The lowest rpm given was from the gear shift on (that is what it dropped to on the shift recovery). The 1st gear numbers were the same as the stock TPI (from a dead roll), but with converter, etc, I question that. If I had a 5 sp car I would pull from 1000 RPM. I posted what we had, not trying to hide anything.
This intake is not designed for someone that shifts at 4000 RPM and likes torque at 1400 RPM. If that is what you want, keep the stock TPI intake as that is what it is designed for.
Hope that helps.
[Modified by Doug Flynn, 10:06 AM 4/20/2002]
_______

Doug
1972 388 EFI Nova
flynnsefi
Here's a list of parts we used.
-Used a 85 Camaro Carbureted upper radiator hose (Dayco 71028) (trimmed the ends back)
- Use a std. small block Chevy waterneck (Mr. Gasket PN 2661)
-Two 1/4" x 1/8"NPT straight barb fittings (rear of intake, MAP sensor and other items, I run only one line to MAP)
-One 3/8" x 3/8" NPT straight barb fitting (rear of intake other vacuum items)
-One 3/8" x 3/8" NPT 90 deg. barb (goes under plenum, used for brake booster)
- 2 feet 1/4" vacuum hose
- 2 feet 3/8" vacuum hose
- (1) 5/16" compression fitting to -6 male AN
- (1) 3/8" compression fitting to -6 male AN
- (2) 3-1/2 foot -6 line with female hose ends. Goes from inlet and outlet to fuel stock fuel lines which are cut from underneath car, the two compression fittings are installed on the stock fuel line.
- (3) 1/4" vacuum plugs for EGR solenoid and throttle body
- (1) large clamp
All the vacuum ports are machined into the plenum. The current lowers don't have the late style center bolts machined, but I am getting future ones machined correctly to fit both. Can't say when for sure. Used the stock air inlet.
You lose EGR and we didn't hook the coolant to the throttle body. Need to use the small cap GM HEI. Coil mounted with stock bracket in stock location.

Didn't have to modify any wiring.

 

the stealth ram works great from 3500rpm to over 7000rpm, if you think of the stealth ram as a tunnel ram intake with none of the bad carb problems and all of the good EFI features youll get the IDEA. since I have no idea of your resources,experiance level, skills,or the particular car your talking about I can only give general answers,the stealth ram itself is not much differant than installing a tunnel ram type intake, on my vette I installed the injectors,fuel rails, throttle body and some of the brackets as a unit, most parts were directly swapped from the TPI intake, the only major differance was that on my 1985 vette has a 9th injector for the cold start/idle and this is not a design feature on the stealth ram, I overcame this by drilling out the center of a 1/8" pipe plug fitting and J&B welding in the 9th injector, I screwed this into the back of the steath ram and silver soldered a adapter fitting to the fuel feed tube and extended the wireing for the electrical connection, everything else was standard,of course only the early TPI systems had that 9th injector so you will not need to do that on most of the TPI set-ups, the stealth ram allowed my engine to still pull hard at a self imposed 6400rpm redline while the stock TPI died at about4400- 4700rpm and a super ram I owned seemed to start running out of air at about 5400-5700rpm, its a huge improvement over a stock TPI set-up its easily worth 75-100hp plus over a stock TPI in the 5000-6500rpm range where the STEALTH RAM breaths just fine but the stock TPI is totally strangleing your engines airflow and hp potential, add a reasonable cam that matches your heads airflow and your cars trans and gearing and you will not beleive its the same engine!