next question for my fellow tpi brothers, i have heard from my friends that removing the skog pump has given them some nice results, now i am wondering if i should i mean i am already about to put straight pipes on and its not like i will have a cat for them to run to but until then i need your wisdom. also on that subject my ac does not work should i can that also. thnx again eric

 

I removed my smog pump and I didn't notice any performance gain...if there was maybe 5 hp at the most. But what I DID get was a bunch more room in the engine bay to work. Also I don't have to worry about my smog pump seizing up on me (It's happened to me twice). And it sheds some weight. Since you have no cat already and apparently are not worried about emissions then the smog pump is just there for the ride...I'd throw it out!

 

I agree with iroc
i pulled my ac cause the compressor bearings bit it
i pulled the smog cause it was just in the way of everything

 

not only does removing the pump give you more space and all that, you also wont have all the hoses and tubes running everywere, makes small things a whole lot easier. Just look at how much of that junk is in the way of just taking a valve cover off ??? onces its gone, life is so much easier.

 

OK I'm interested in this one!

If you remove the smog pump but keep the AC what belt do you use? My car has one LONG serpentine belt (1989 IROC L98).

Anybody know?

Thanks!
Ernie

 

I'm putting on Headers this week that don't have the air tubes in them so I'm going to ditch the smog pump.
What all has to be done when removing the smog pump and all related hoses?
Does anything have to be blocked off?
What do you do with the EGR so it doesn't throw a code?

I know the tube from the cat (which is hollowed with a straight pipe through it already) will not be a problem. I'll just cut it off at the cat


Does anyone have a pic of what it looks like without all that stuff on there?

Thanks Everyone

Hodge

 

I started out by unbolting the pump itself and that black box with all the tubes going into it. Then I took off all the hoses that I could, then take off the exhaust manifolds. The last thing is cutting that tube to the cat. You might want to leave a little bit of the pipe at the cat, that way if you ever have to pass emissions you can rig up a hose to it to force clean air in(basicaly what the air pump did, diluted the exhaust with fress air) once thats all done there shouldnt be anything to block off. If I remember right you can simplify the accesory brakets once the pump is off too. I think thats it, it was 2 years ago that I took mine off. Heres a picture of it with out all the crap.

 

so the EGR is uneffected by this?

sorry so many questions, this is one of the few areas of my IROC that I haven't gotten into yet.

Thanks for the quick and very informative response too.

Hodge

 

opps forgot about that part. Yeah just leave it on and hooked up. I asked about it on some other posts and that was the consensous that I got its more trouble to get rid of it than it is to just leave it, and you dont really gain anything by removing it. When you think about it, its not a big deal, its 1 wire, a small vac hose and it all under the plenum anyways so its not like you will gain anything by taking it out.

 

If you aren't going to make the changes in the PROM, don't remove the EGR. It advances the timing when the EGR is operating... if it thinks it is still there when you have removed it, you may get knock.

There's not really any performance gain in removing it either, since it turns off when you go to full throttle.

 

Why cut the tube that goes to the cat(s)?
I didn't. I just unbolted the clamp that's at the firewall and pulled the tube right out.
Now if I ever need to put it back in I won't have to rig anything

 

I couldnt do that with mine, it was crimped on so good that I had to cut it off. And the rigging IM talking about is like running a hose from whats left of that tube going into the cat up to like a funnel in the air dam. Yes it sounds polish as hell but I know people that have done things like that and passed with cars that are very far from legal. Just a matter of how much clean air you can add to the crap thats coming out of your car to fool the test.

 

You mean something was easier on my car than someone else's!!!?
Red Letter Day!!!

I had to turn mine back and forth all the while pulling up on it. It popped off after about 2 minutes of that.

polish or not, ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

 

so let me get this straight, i remove the smog pump, and all the tubes coming from it, now what is this "black box" you are talking about?
Eric

 

its maybe a 3" cube on the same side as the pump, but up higher I think it goes onto one of the exhaust manifold bolts and maybe one of the intake manifold bolts too. some of the hoses go into it, and there is an electrical conection on it if I remember right, take it all off and toss it. pretty much anything that is connected to that pump or the little tubes on the exhaust manifolds can go.

 

the diverter valve, its bolted to the air pump, and has some wires plugged into it.

 

PonyKiller87 where did ya get those valve covers. man those things are sweet.

 

The classic industries catalog, I got them awhile ago when the price was decent, I heard they are alot more now like $250 or something??

 

so does removing the smog stuff mean i can get rid of the charcoal canister, too??

 

Im still trying to figure that one out too. I searched the posts for that one and some say yes, some say no, what I did get though is: if you do take it out, you have to keep the vent tube open and route it to where it wont ever be near a flame or spark, cap off the vac lines that run to it at the TB, and the part that Im not to clear on is the plug for the valve, some said just unplug it, others said to leave it pluged in or it will cause a code. I havent done it yet so i dont know, I guess Im gonna start out by just pulling off the vent line and running it up into the air dam where it should be safe, then un pluging it, if everything still works fine the I will remove everything. I hope that helps at least a little and Ill let you know what I find when I do mine.

 

It doesn't advance the timing. I went through the ANHT_hac and looked for this when I pulled my EGR.

 

Removed all my smog stuff(air pump etc) along with the stock manifolds this week and replaced them with headers w/o airtubes. No codes and runs great.

I left the EGR and canister alone.

Hodge

 

Did all you guys leave the pump bolted up and continue to turn run it with the belt?

If so that still leaves the possibility of it locking up on you.

Has anyone elimanted the pump completely?



Ernie

 

Forgiven,

Take a look at the pick I posted earlier, I removed the pump and all. If you have the v-belts its not a big deal, if you have the serpentine setup it could be a problem, Mine I have the march v-belt to serpentine conversion pullies so it wasnt a big deal at all.

 

I removed my smog pump and all the AIR crap. Running shorty headers. EGR solenoid is disconnected from EGR valve. Vaccum hose on EGR solenoid is plug so the solenoid doesn't throw a code.
As for removing the smog pump - just go and read the tech article! There is TONS of great info there guys. Sit down and read it ALL some night, take notes and ask questions. You'll be all the wiser for it.


Smog Pump Tech Article

EDIT: I am using the Dayco 968K6 ribbed belt. I was using the stock belt until I purchased the slightly longer one. You can TEMPORARILY use your stock belt. I had to remove the MAF sensor so I could install the stock belt after the smog removal - VERY tight. I wouldn't recommend running it like this for more than a few days.

 

Mine had V-belts as well so my pump is completely gone.

Hodge

 

All i did was unplug it and put a small filter on the end of the vetn tube for the gas tank.
i have driven it quite a few miles since and not had any problems.
I also have removed my smog pump and related equip,and replaced the a/c with the gm delete pulley.

 

What if they get emission testing in the area and the smog pump and all those hoses are gone?

 

Bluebird,

I dont worry about that to much, there is always going to be ways around the tests, just a mater of finding the holes in the system. And it seems theres a fair number of people out there that find my attiude twards the whole smog thing terrible because Im poluting and doing illegal things.... Think about this for a minute or two, what does all that emissions crap do? It takes clean air, and adds it into the dirty exhaust so that when the emissions tester reads it its not so bad. So everyone with there emissions stuff still on is poluting just as much, just that they still have the factory government aproved way of cheeting the test.

Kevin

 

Poppa Chubby: Great article! Thanks for the help.

I will do just that...

Ernie

 

Almost right Kevin,

The air pump adds fresh air(oxygen) into the catylitic converter which reacts with any unburned fuel(the reason the cat get so darn hot, hence the nice warm passenger side floor board) to further reduce emissions.

 

Oh well I was close, lol But I still dont feel guilty at all for "poluting" by not having the stuff on there.

 

so can we throw the charcoal canister out the window if the smog and AIR stuff is removed? im putting in a new motor and dont feel like going through the trouble if i dont have to

 

The A.I.R. tubes to the exhaust manafolds is to lower emissions.They do that by adding oxygen to the exhaust stream.Thus the emission tester will see a lower % of unburnt fuel.The air pump adds air to cheat the emission machine by giving a false % of air to lower the % unburnt fuel(hydrocarbons).I think the paracitic loss negates the added air.


Now we come to the catalyic converter.From what I have seen,yes there is some cats that require air to them.I talked to a rep from catco.He said their cats don't require air pumped to them.My factory cat did have an air tube to it.But my new catco 3 inch cat does not.Berettas and many cars have cat temp sensors(to pirate).If your worried about it.


The charcoal canister does not effect hp at all.It's just a ecofriendly way to vent gas fumes.I tend to think it also relieves pressure in the tank.So I think it is worth keeping.It's one of the REAL emissions equipment that helps.You can mount it under the battery tray(a factory spot) to keep a clean look.



Finally we get to uncle sam and emissions.Any car that is not knocking or burning oil past it's rings will pass emission test.As long as your car is tuned up w/ a good cat(s) and ecm running 14.7 a/f ratio.Thats with or without the air pump.My state will run the car through the test w/o visual emissions equip inspection.Unless you fail the test.Then they note every piece of missing/malfuntioning equipment.

I should know about this subject.I just got my car tested,I have a mild 406 tpi setup.Yes I was worried it would'nt pass.I just sat and watched some punk dog my car out on that dyno.The test seem to last forever.The end result was
HC 0.4347/0.8000 max
NOx 2.6577/15.0000max
CO 0.8917/2.0000max
The standard unit of measurement was grams per mile.So i passed,even with 112-115 blms.The funny part is I'm running leaner now so my emissions is even lower.I do burm my own chips though.

 

Hey Dave84bird, where did you get the a/c delete pulley. and did you get a whole new bracket or did you put it on the old one? And, how much did it cost you?

Thanks,
88GTAction

 

It was $33.00 but i also got quotes from different gm dealers fro 56,44,37,65......i guess dealers are allowed to make up their own pricing. i just checked around and ordered it from the cheapest oto save a few bux (i manage a parts store so i used their account to order it)

any ways it bolts in place of the a/c compressor.
Here's a link to a pic


http://www.fbody.com/members/MNFormula350/formulaengine.jpg