I built my 383 tpi over the winter and ran out of cash at the end. I realized that two injectors were bigger than the rest and that they were on the oxygen sensor side and that these would make the engine run terribly so I have not been running it much. Now that I have the cash to buy injectors I was wondering what size to buy and what brand. I ordered a cable from Steve ruse so I will be able to monitor my BLM's and I was thinking of going with Ford SVO 24# per hour. Will these fit without modification, and will they be big enough? Also by having my fuel pressure lowered my BLm's should be close to 128 and the car should run well, correct? I know I should burn a chip and I am going to soon, but I just want to get the car running right now. Thanks for all the help. -John

 

24# will be marginal...they will be ok if your not gonna do n e hting else to it...but if uplan on ne add ons then go with 26#....and they will bolt it not mods required...

 

 

I have heard that on a heathly 383 30# would be pretty good you may want to go larger.

 

Was that BS for me or the response? I am just looking for some help. I want to get the injectors because then I can start to trouble shoot why the car lopes the idle from 450-1500 then stalls when it gets warm. ROC you seem to be pretty knowledgeable, so what do you think about the injectors. Right now I can just use BLM's to tune though so I will have to get something that will work with my current set up until I can burn my own chips. The car runs fine with the black/ tan distributor wire disconnected thoug so I am thinking that the computer is getting knock signals and pulling timing out. Thanks for any help
-John

 

Sorry the bs was just cuz im a tool


When you're buying/thinking about SVO injectors keep in mind their rating is for a lower fuel pressure, so your 24's are actually pump'n closer to 26's, etc etc..


on a mildly modded 383 you could live on even some LT1 injectors with the aid of either a AFPR or prom burning.


Good luck

 

Cool Thanks. Does my theory about the timing reard sound plausible or not. When the car warms up the idle lopes very badly, then it eventually dies. Would severe knock cause this. Thanks again.

 

You shouldn't be getting any knock at idle or anything short of 2,000rpms, ESPECIALLY if this is happening with no load (in park/neutral) If you'd like to test the theory pull your knock sensor wire and see if things change at all, if not you might look at your distrib, maybe you're a tooth out?

Unfortunatly the "Screw driver to a carb" is a prom burner to a TPI, you cant do ANYTHING without it, some people would call an adjustable fuel pressure regulator an exception, but I wouldn't, it only really comes into play for fine tuning at WOT, and tweaking it a few psi to much in either direction could end up being pretty unhealthy for your engine. Its unfortunate but true, in your scenerio your BEST bet is to buy the burning equipment, even if it means running 24/26lb/hr stock injectors. I got a set of LT1 injectors that IM running now with an intake fuel rails and TB for I think about $40 from someone I dont know, so there are deals out there you just got to look for them.