I got this IROC a few weeks ago . It constantly has the SES light on . Codes are 33 and 36. 33 is the MAF and 36 is MAF burnoff circuit. Will just getting a new (or hopefully working used) MAF fix this or is it one of these other relays I've been hearing about? Or...maybe both? This might just be another "it could be anything" instances...but, hey, maybe someone had the same problem. Thanx!

 

i reconnected the burnoff relay and no more code 36. but...still 33 so i'm guessing it is a bad maf?

 

technically if its a code 33 it could be the MAF, a short in the circut or a bad ecm....

i am currently going through the same deal and i bouught the MAF from World Discounts....the Wells MAF p/n su-145 phone number for them is 800-288-6728 and i would recommend it.... its a lifetime warrenty part and it costs186.45 shipped to my door. ur shipping might be different


unfortunatly for me it didn't solve the problem...i am still getting the 33 and i think it is my connector though..got a new one on order. bah...


i jsut saw that naperville il huh...i'm right by there...ever hear of woodridge??

 

thats what I thought..."could be anything..." how and where do you get a new bosch maf? gm? i wouldn't think they come cheap cuz you can get a used one at TGR for $100.

of course i've heard of woodridge

 

to be honest with u...i could never find a new Bosch one, however i do not believe it will be cheap...i think the wells replacement is one of the less expensive ones..i know if u want a rebuilt one you can go to Autozone and get one for 75 bucks plus the core charge...it only has a 3 mo warrenty..which is y i opted for the Wells...because it is brand name and is lifetime.

going on this could be anything deal....i am currently buying a new connector for my maf sensor for 65 bucks from gm but i didn't want to do a cheap pepboys version as i have NEVER been satisfied with their parts, epcially the important stuff.

and now that i have gone through all of this...i suddenly remember i have the code 33 test operation on my comuter. man if i only i had remembered that earlier in my quest. heres the test i picked up to check and detemine the problem...


Code 33 tests.

First check air ducts for cracks, holes and tighten clamps.

With the ignition off, unplug the MAF and apply power to ALDL terminal
"G". Check the red wire on the MAF connector for power. If no power,
verify 12v on relay connector orange and white/tan wires. Verify the
connector black/white wire is grounded. Verify black wire from MAF
connector terminal B to ECM connector A11 with an ohm meter. Verify
red wire from relay connector to MAF connector with an ohm meter.
If all is good replace MAF power relay.

Turn ignition on, Check MAF connector dark blue wire for 12v, if so,
unplug MAF burn off relay and check again. If so, check relay
connector black wire for ground. If so, the black wire is shorted to
ground or the ECM is bad. If not, replace MAF burn off relay.

If the dark blue wire at the start of the above test had no voltage,
check the MAF connector dark green wire with ignition on for a 5v
reference signal. If so, and all connectors are good, replace MAF.
If no 5v reference on dark green wire, verify it from the MAF connector
to ECM connector B12 with an ohm meter. If the wire is good replace the
ECM. If the dark green wire has 12v on it, turn ignition off and unplug
the ECM connectors. Turn ignition back on and check again, if so,
it is shorted to power somewhere. If not, and all connectors and
grounds are good replace ECM.

The long infamous, hard to find Hi-Flow Wells Mass Air Flow Sensor has been found!!!!
World Discounts
(800) 288-6728
Part # SU-145
Price $166.45
LIFETIME WARRANTY!!! They even carry 'em in stock!!!

 

There are two relays for the MAF, replace both of them. They share a common part number with the fuel pump, and all reside on the drivers side firewall nearest to the drivers door. Change these before you go buying a new sensor, and make sure your sensor is clean and there are no vacuum leaks near it.

 

Hey, I managed to find a bosch maf through a local repair place, they said they could order it from gm, but it is around $500... so theres no point even looking, a good wells one is under $200

Thats what im ordering for mine... from what ive been told thats why i get a 33 on my gta... lets hope they are right

 

Just a thought.......did you ever take a look inside the MAF to see if the filament was broken? I got that code once (I think -maybe it was a code43 -dont remember) but my filament wire was broken so I had to get a new maf. I got a stock replacement Bosch one from autzone for around 160.00

 

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/
Enter PN 14094712, Genuine GM for $246

 

wow, thats a good deal, but even with that price id get a wells one, its better and cheaper... im getting mine for $186 with shipping