headers
headers
I'm swapping my 305 with a 300hp 350 later this month. I just want to know if I should definately switch to headers during the engine swap or wait later. If y'all think i should get headers during the swap, I'll have to wait another 2 weeks before I go ahead with this (payday). So my question is how hard is it to replace the headers with the engine in the car vs out.
Also, if anyone could recommend a decent brand of emissions-legal headers....(over-emphisize EMISSIONS-LEGAL)
I would appreciate it, thanks
Also, if anyone could recommend a decent brand of emissions-legal headers....(over-emphisize EMISSIONS-LEGAL)
I would appreciate it, thanks
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 407
Likes: 0
From: Stuarts Draft, VA
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: modified L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Well, it is definately easier to put the headers on with the engine out of the car, but it's not too bad with the engine in the car either. I would reccomend doing it all at the same time if you can wait that long, it'll save you a few scrapes and scars.
Also IMO, the SLP headers w/ AIR are the best emissions legal headers.
Also IMO, the SLP headers w/ AIR are the best emissions legal headers.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
From: Tampa,FL
Car: 89 Irocz
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 342
Well since you mention emissions legal, than I would def. do headers with the motor out. It was a pain in the a$$ to get the headers with the engine in the car. You don't have much room to work with. It wouldn't be that bad if you didn't have those air tubes sticking out, that just makes it even more of a pain. And you would have a very hard time tighting the end bolts on the headers. Well I went with Hooker Super Competition shorty headers, they come with a y-pipe. Hooker is a top of the line header, they only come in 1'5/8 though, but a plus side is that you don't have to mod anything to get them in your car. And they are emission legal, they run about $365. But you should really get them Jet hot coated, it's alittle more but they will keep your headers from rusting and keep them cooler, and they look great too. But that's about 200 dollars more, but well worth it. There is also SLP headers they are pretty good too, but very pricey like 500 or more a pair, they also come with a y-pipe. But then you have to buy their install kit, with is another $100. But you can get them 1'5/8 or 1'3/4, which is very great for a 350. They are Stainless Steel, but I would still recommend you get them Jet hot coated. Also route all wire from your wiring harness to plugs wires away from you headers. Headers will burn wires like nothing.
I am putting Edelbrock Headers on my TA right now. I agree about the Jet Hot. Just do it, those things rust out so quick, its worth the money, and they look awesome! Does anyone know how to take the oil dopstickl tube off the block? Is it even possible? I cannot get my passenger side header in becasue of cleaance reasons, but if I could losse the dipstick tube, then I could slide it into place. Any ideas? thanks
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,654
Likes: 2
From: Lower Salford, PA
Car: 1987 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.3L Victor EFI
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"/4.11 Trac-Lok
You must install the header & dipstick tube at the same time. Get the header in rough position & feed the tube through the header & into it's hole, lifting the header up & pushing the tube down. If the tube wont go in pull the header up a little & it should go in. When the tube is in then slide in the gasket & bolt up the header. It helps to start the front & rear bolts in before you try to put header in. This is what I had to do before I removed the AC box on the firewall, now the header just drops in over the tube without hitting the AC box.
RickTPI-thanks for replying. To install the dipstick tube and header a the same time, I have to take the dipstick tube out first. Could you tell me how to do that. Is it easy to put it back in? ANy tips or tricks? Everything else makes sense to me, so thanks for the help, I just don't know how to tak the tube out. Thank you.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
Headers aren't that hard to do, i would not consider it a priority during an engine swap personally. Just put some anti-seize on all the manifold bolts and you'll be straight when you want to do it later.
What you do want to make sure you do before you drop th eengine in is to make sure you have THE cam you want to be running. You say 300horse 350. You talking about ther GM crate engine. If so, the cam in that thing is trash. Do yourself a favor and make sure you have the right cam in before you even think about something as headers during the engine swap. Everything else isn't that bad to do in the car, but cam is a pita.
What you do want to make sure you do before you drop th eengine in is to make sure you have THE cam you want to be running. You say 300horse 350. You talking about ther GM crate engine. If so, the cam in that thing is trash. Do yourself a favor and make sure you have the right cam in before you even think about something as headers during the engine swap. Everything else isn't that bad to do in the car, but cam is a pita.
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 324
Likes: 1
From: Omaha, NE
Car: Vert IROC Camaro
Engine: 355ci
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/3.45s
Originally posted by Ricktpi
It's a press fit. Just pull it out, twisting it gently as you do.
It's a press fit. Just pull it out, twisting it gently as you do.
I figured it couldn't hurt.
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 334
Likes: 0
From: Louisville, KY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z28
Engine: 383 Vortec - carb
Transmission: T56 - 6speed
since you have to have emmisions legal headers I would say that you should definately do the headers before you put the engine in. I never would have gotten my exhaust manifolds off If I didn't cut all those air tubes off so that I could reach the bolts on the manifolds. I went the non-emmisions route so I just cut the air tubes right off.
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