After purchasing and Edelbrock Intake and Runners I realized that there was no connection for the ninth injector (cold start injector). Is there anything I need to do besides removing the injector and letting the wire hang? Do any other sensors have to be modified or removed?

 

I put on a Super Ram same problem. I unplugged the injector. No big issues.

 

If you want to clean up the appearance, you can remove the cold start injector and the tube from the fuel rail and cap the rail. TPIS sells a kit for $60, or I can sell you a cap for a few bucks. I bought a pile of these because a bunch of guys on the corvette forum said they wanted them and couldn't get them locally. I had 1 lousy guy buy one, so now I've got a bunch of them hanging around. $10 shipped and it's yours. I'm using one on my IROC and it works great.

Here's the back of the fuel rail with the injector tube disconnected:


Here it is with the cap on it:



if you're interrested in one, just drop me an email.

 

You should Likely also get a PROM burnt wich will compensate for the lack of CSI On Cold Start.

ARAP code, for example.

 

thats all i need to delete the cold start injector.... thats it.... no wires, no new chip, no nothin? just a cap....and TPIS sells this cap for 60....

 

Like Bort said, you should really have a new chip burned that will accomodate the lack of a CSI. Your car will still start with the stock prom, but it might crank for a couple seconds. If you drive it in cold weather, you'll REALLY need a new PROM.

The TPIS kit comes with more than the cap. It comes with a plug for the runners, but you don't need that.

 

The CSI circuit is completely independant from anything related to the ECM. You can actually remove every trace of wiring of that circuit and never touch the computer; that's exactly what I did.

The deal is though, 89 and later TPI computers (or chips actually) have a method programmed into them to add the extra fuel on startup, so you DO have to change the chip or you'll have hard starts (lotsa cranking).

If you're going for a clean look, you'll also need to remove the CSI switch and put a pipe plug in it's place. Assuming one day you sell the car or someone else works on it, they'll see a loose plug and an empty CSI switch and they just happen to have the same exact connector they might put the wrong 2 and 2 together and come up with a very bad 4.

 

Appreciate all the advice. Made my old plug out of the piece that was left from the fuel tube and plugged it from the inside with a rubber insert. Will be getting a prom burned as soon as my mods are complete.

Thanks

 

The 86-88 code apparently has the cold start cranking tables in it as well, but I havent verified if its there and it works or not.

 

Does this mean that simply unplugging it won't give you a trouble code?

 

whats the big deal if i take it off, i wont pick up any hp, and i wont save any fuel... i wont save myself anthing, and its not like its so big it makes the engine bay look like shat.... im not knockin it... im just thinkin outloud... i dont like to touch stuff with fuel... did that one to many times... but i might do this when i remove and port my plenum, runners, and intake base.... well i will see... oh yea... i need info on AIR tubes.. i dont need them to pass inspection, but do i need them at all? and do i need it to stay attached to the cat? im lost and winter is ariving....

 

Exactly.

The cold start injector is just for starting. It doesnt do anything else. Without it, and with the 86-88 chip, its going to take 3-5 seconds to start. Its quite a while. I timed it. Not fun. Just a problem to address when ditching it, but nothing that cant be fixed.

 

If you want to address that problem, Pm me!

 

Since the alternator bracket almost completely hides the front of the intake manifold, I just decided to leave the temp sensor/switch/whatever in place and connected. I just unplugged the CSI and removed the fuel line. Short and sweet and simple to reverse.

There's no reason to remove it just for the sake of removing it. Those of us that removed it did it for a reason. In my case, it's because I bought SLP runners that don't have a provision for it. Same situation with super-ram owners. Also, there's people (myself included) that would like to run PROMs like ARAP and APYP, which were designed to work on the 89 cars that didn't have the CSI. Rather than reinventing the wheel and implimenting CSI properties into the BIN, it's easier to disconnect the CSI. As long as it's being disconnected, you might as well remove the extra crap to help clean up the appearance.

 

Since Im doing some manifold gasket r&r, figured I'd get the blockoff kit from ebay and clean things up.

Now, on the back of the fuel rail there are two bolts which secure the CSI fuel line in place. Do you loosen/remove the outer nut first? Then remove the inner nut? Or can simply just removed the inner nut and comes out as a unit?

Thanks,, trying not to break something...

 

I'm guessing this clean up can be for HSR too?

 

Outer nut holds line on, that has to removed 1st otherwise fuel rail adapter (inner nut) won't turn.
You can get a cap to seal the adapter
or remove it and fit a plug to the fuel rail
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TPI-Tuned-Po...item53e956f23b

 

HSR doesn't have CSI provision so nothing to clean up
If you are fitting a HSR on a CSI equipped car you need the new tune as mentioned above

 

thank you, precisely what i needed to know! i have the blockoff already.

both counterclockwise to loosen, correct?