delete thanks

 

I would recommend double flaring each cut end and using fittings to reconnect the two. This is the least expensive option I can think of. You can rent the double flare tool for free. NAPA or whoever can help you with the fittings. Another option would be to use compression fittings. If the break in the lines is at midpoint between line mounts, be sure to secure the line on each side of the fittings so vibration wont cause leak. Pressure up the system before reinstallation to check for leaks. You dont want to do this twice.

 

Oh, dont use hose clamps and regular rubber gas line. Fuel injection requires much higher line pressure, and the line could burst. Keep in mind that your safety is at stake here. The fuel injection rubber hose is very expensive and would be more costly than fittings. There are also special hose clamps made for fuel injection, so dont just use a stainless screw clamp.

 

they been cut pretty much at the sending unit at top of tank, they didnt cut em straight nice and neat either, they hacked them literally. the cut ends need help.

anyone know where factory connections/splices are at back there ?

i take it on fuel injected systems there are no clamped or hose connections, right ?


thanks

 

like the other said there is fuel injection hose designed for the higher pressures i have it on my tpi setup for my 73 vette,works great also use the fuel injection hose clamps too.

 

where can you get this FI hose at ? auto zone or napa?

thanks

 

NAPA, Oreilley's, Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc etc etc

 

clamps ? tower type ? or ?

thanks

 

there designed especially for fuel injection just ask at the counter where you go.

 

If you do the clamp method, do something to the lines so the hose doesnt just blow off. What I do is use the double flare tool, do part of the first step, which bubbles the end of the line. That will prevent the hose from blowing off.

I'd stay away from compression fittings. They are very iffy.

 

When I installed my inline pump, I used Tranny Cooler rubber lines and double clamped them to the hard line with these Fuel Line hose clamps. The lines are still good as well as the clamps.
I am running a 255lph Holley Pump.

I am going to change almost all of the rubber fuel lines I installed on my car since I have about 20' of it on the car.

 

If you're going to use hose, at the least follow madmax's suggestion to bubble or put some kid of flare/lip on the line so that the hose has a better grip. As has been already said, and CANNOT be stressed enough, safety should be your only concern here, not cost, or difficulty, but what will fix it permanently. And with that in mind, i'd have to put in my 0.02 that using any kind of clamped connection on it would make me nervous, no matter how well you think you did it. Even the smallest leak in this situation could make for an ugly death for you, and anyone nearby. If this was my car, no question it would get flared and done right. Hell, i wouldn't even trust hose for my tranny cooler, so i blew the extra for braided line and adapter fittings.

 

Can I use braided lines for the feed and return from the tank all the way to the motor?
That is what I would like to do.

 

i dont think ive actually properly used a flaring tool in a way that ive ever gotten a correct and complete double flare

how can a person go about making the bubble "flare" deal at the end of hard lines like factory fuel lines have ? looks like they used some kind of interanally expanding deal kinda like an exhaust pipe expander in a way, hmm,.,

is tranny cooler hose the technical name of the wire/metal enforced hosing that some ppl use on tranny coolers ?
its ok with fuel use without dissolving

 

Double flaring is hard, takes practice and patience.

The factory fitting is a Saginaw flare. You need a special tool to do one of those. I wouldnt bother myself.

Fuel line... you MUST use fuel line. Dont use tranny cooler line, the hose is a different composition and over time it will harden and crack. And make sure its FI fuel line, the other stuff will just pop.

I have a few clamped connections, they are just fine. Been that way for 9 years now. Clamps are good for 50psi, no problem. Just make sure its not just a straight line on the end, thats bad.

 

yeah im sure you could if you have the money, but I think you should just run the hard metal lines for the most part and use the braised once it gets to the tank and use it up front too.

 

ok.
So I am guessing that long braided lines are expensive.
I had to cut part of my hard lines when I went TPI.
On my LG4, the hard lines crossed over to the pass side so I cut them and used the rubber hose.
Is it hard to put a fitting onto my current hard lines so that I can attach the braided ones?

 

how can we flare line ends for clamping hose onto them ?? theres gotta be some kind of interanlkly expanding bit deal for this

hmm


i take it there are no rubber hoses at all on MPFI systems then ?

if not then the best bet would be to flare and connect lines ends together as previously recommended above

how to properly and sucessfully double flare lines is the deal... i dont think can be done right with the cheap flaring tool that auto zone rents out,. how do you get the line wall to collapse inward before you flare it outward ??


thanks for anything on this, i appreciate it so far, definitely!

 

Its called an ISO flare, and they make flaring tools for them. Look in an eastwood catalog or other automotive tool catalogs.

 

ISO ? hmm interesting..

 

Zepher,

I was thinking about doing what you were talking bout, replace the whole thing with braided lines.

Are the hard lines that are already on the car in 1 huge piece from the engine to the tank?

Robert

 

Well, on my car the hard lines from the tank hooked up to some rubber ones and then went to the hard lines on the chassis.
I think that is how it was, can't remember.
Here is a pic showing the location of my pump and filter I installed,