Cam timing skipped a tooth?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, Texas
Car: 89 Firebird T/A
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Cam timing skipped a tooth?
Hey guys,
What are the chances that a timing chain (Cloyes double roller) would skip a tooth? I'm certain when I put the timing chain on there, the marks were perfect but now I'm trying to fire up the engine and it will turn over but if it catches, it immediately dies. Pumping the gas pedal helps only minimally but I can't keep "running" (term used very loosely) for more than 5 seconds.. Distributor timing is as close as I can get it right now
considering I can't keep it running to check the timing. Scan tool shows all the sensors are responding (TPS, CTS, MAF, O2).
I checked for vacuum leaks and don't see anything apparent.. Nothing that would make it just fall on it's butt every time I tried to start it..
No codes.
I disabled the IAC while it was closed to see if that might be the problem.. nothing..
Fuel pressure is fine. 45 psi.
I adjusted the rockers..
The starter motor sounds normal if I'm just turning the motor over with the ignition disconnected.
Each of the cylinders is firing based on each header tube feeling warm after trying to start.
What else am I missing?
I'm going crazy. I spent all morning to the afternoon trying to get the thing started..
Thanks in advance,
-Bruce
What are the chances that a timing chain (Cloyes double roller) would skip a tooth? I'm certain when I put the timing chain on there, the marks were perfect but now I'm trying to fire up the engine and it will turn over but if it catches, it immediately dies. Pumping the gas pedal helps only minimally but I can't keep "running" (term used very loosely) for more than 5 seconds.. Distributor timing is as close as I can get it right now
considering I can't keep it running to check the timing. Scan tool shows all the sensors are responding (TPS, CTS, MAF, O2).
I checked for vacuum leaks and don't see anything apparent.. Nothing that would make it just fall on it's butt every time I tried to start it..
No codes.
I disabled the IAC while it was closed to see if that might be the problem.. nothing..
Fuel pressure is fine. 45 psi.
I adjusted the rockers..
The starter motor sounds normal if I'm just turning the motor over with the ignition disconnected.
Each of the cylinders is firing based on each header tube feeling warm after trying to start.
What else am I missing?
I'm going crazy. I spent all morning to the afternoon trying to get the thing started..
Thanks in advance,
-Bruce
Doubtful. Someone knowledgable said it can't happen sometime last week(Vader or RB, I think). Have you tried different distributor positions? If you've got the cam/crank in the wrong orientation(but close), you could probably make it start by doing that.
Normally there are no codes stored unless the engine is able to start(not just crank, fire, and die).
Did you just take the timing cover off, remove the chain and cam gear, and install new ones in the same location? Or did you move the engine or change the cam? I'm guessing you changed the cam since you touched the distributor, right? Double checked the firing order?
Normally there are no codes stored unless the engine is able to start(not just crank, fire, and die).
Did you just take the timing cover off, remove the chain and cam gear, and install new ones in the same location? Or did you move the engine or change the cam? I'm guessing you changed the cam since you touched the distributor, right? Double checked the firing order?
Member

Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 409
Likes: 0
From: Land O Lakes, FL
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
No way a double roller is going to skip a tooth. Something may be out of time (dropped distributor in correctly, timing, timing gears lined up?)
Did you fix or upgrade somthing on your car to make it stop working?
Did you fix or upgrade somthing on your car to make it stop working?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, Texas
Car: 89 Firebird T/A
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I thought *maybe* I had gotten the dist 180* off but it's not.. I checked and watched the valves to make sure. The balancer is right on, I checked that when I lined up the timing marks so it's not a balancer slip. When the mark came around, #1 was on the compression stroke.
I just recently replaced my engine. I got it rebuilt and one of the cylinders died so I pulled it and the machine shop fixed it. I'm hoping that they didn't do something to cause it to give me a no-start. They also told me the exhaust valve is/was hitting the pistons so I should have the heads checked for bent exhaust valves. They put the valves on the machine and no bent valves were found but they said the exhaust valve guides were burnt to high heaven and suggested they put new ones in. So they did.
Yes, I changed the cam but it's the same cam (and timing set) that I had on the engine before the cylinder died so I know they worked at one point.
I was going to pull the timing cover and check my timing but if you're telling me it's not going to skip a tooth, I'm not going to pull it. Especially since I'll have to drop the oil pan to get it back on.
Firing order is on, 18436572...
Timing, I've tried advancing it and retarding it.. some better than others... Could it be the pickup coil? It fires and it seems to fire at the right time, it just won't keep firing.. It almost sounds as if it's shutting down like the fuel pressure is being cut off (but it's not. the fuel pressure is constant while cranking/psuedo-running).
Anyone else?
Thanks in advance.
-Bruce
I just recently replaced my engine. I got it rebuilt and one of the cylinders died so I pulled it and the machine shop fixed it. I'm hoping that they didn't do something to cause it to give me a no-start. They also told me the exhaust valve is/was hitting the pistons so I should have the heads checked for bent exhaust valves. They put the valves on the machine and no bent valves were found but they said the exhaust valve guides were burnt to high heaven and suggested they put new ones in. So they did.
Yes, I changed the cam but it's the same cam (and timing set) that I had on the engine before the cylinder died so I know they worked at one point.
I was going to pull the timing cover and check my timing but if you're telling me it's not going to skip a tooth, I'm not going to pull it. Especially since I'll have to drop the oil pan to get it back on.
Firing order is on, 18436572...
Timing, I've tried advancing it and retarding it.. some better than others... Could it be the pickup coil? It fires and it seems to fire at the right time, it just won't keep firing.. It almost sounds as if it's shutting down like the fuel pressure is being cut off (but it's not. the fuel pressure is constant while cranking/psuedo-running).
Anyone else?
Thanks in advance.
-Bruce
Exhaust valve hitting a piston? Usually, the exhaust valve is closing as the piston approaches TDC, so in effect, the piston is "chasing" the valve toward the seat. Therefore, the piston is technically hitting the valve. Regardless, this phenomenon usually only occurs with extreme cam grinds and lifts, domed pistons, very short decks, and most importantly, late valve timing.
Chances are, the timing chain either slipped a tooth, was installed a tooth off, or the timing set was incorrectly marked. Incorrect installation is somewhat easy with aftermarket timing sets, since the three sets of marks can be unclear.
NOTE: As I write this, it sounds like we have lost yet another space shuttle. This is not a good February already.
Chances are, the timing chain either slipped a tooth, was installed a tooth off, or the timing set was incorrectly marked. Incorrect installation is somewhat easy with aftermarket timing sets, since the three sets of marks can be unclear.
NOTE: As I write this, it sounds like we have lost yet another space shuttle. This is not a good February already.
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