Ok, car's a stock '87 IROC-Z TPI 350. It's got 3" Flowmaster, cat back. I estimate about 200rwhp, maybe like 240 at the crank. 3.27 BW rear-end (Is that posi???) Now, I'm planning on Cold Air of some design, with some good filters, TP Coolant bypass, New coil, cap, wires, plugs, ARAP code and lower fan on temps, 180 Termo. Would that take me to about an even 14 (Provided I can get it hooked up) What about it I tossed on a set of headers? (Don't want to, but I might if I could find a set cheap) How much hp, do you need to look for to pull that low 14. I gotta deliver Pizza in the car, so I can't go too wild, or burn to much fuel, but I wanna be able to pull a casual 14 on weekends. OH yeah, and of course, if I have deliver pizza in it, you guessed it, deffinatly on a budget. Thanks in advance for the ideas.

 

i doubt you'll see an even 14 with those "mods"

headers are definitely a step in the right direction though. they'll probably get you closer, but even with them i doubt you'll see a 14.00...

i wish you could, but unfortunately i don't think it's that easy

 

I've read around here about lots of pretty much stock L98 cars hitting mid-high 14's, thats stock. Low 14's isn't so hard to be achived is it?? Anybody know about how much HP you'd need for those kind of 1/4 times?

 

with good tires and a good running 350 iroc you should see 14.90@90 then air filters/airfoil/afpr/wires/cap an rotor/coil/ 14.70@92 then with a catback and headers you should be expecting runs in the 14.30's then look at a new camand tq converter. but not something to crazy. look into the LT4 cam and a 2200-2400 stall converter. you don't want to go much more radical cauze its a daily driver.


but some cheap hp mods--
air foil $60
do the wires/plugs/capand rotor/coil $125-250
afpr $100
pulleys $125
K+N's $60
tb bypass. $5
these combined will give a noticable gain in power
30hp give or take

 

I ran 14.6(uncorrected) in my 305TPI 5-speed with just a cat-back, hollow cat, K&N's and AFPR. I have a BW rear but it's a 3.45 gear in mine and a 3.27 in yours. You do have 45 extra cubes though.

I think you should be able to reach your goal of 14.0 on a budget.

skip the Air Foil (saved $60)

DO get headers. Dynomax sells a set of (non-smog)shorties for like $125. No Y-pipe with those but I had one fabbed at an exhaust shop for $100
DO the free mods. cut air boxes, hollow cat(if no emmisions) etc.
DO remove the air pump and it's hoses etc. (again if you don't have smog tests) This doesn't really gain anything but reduces a tiny, tiny amount of weight and parasitic loss but really cleans up the engine bay.

 

My best time all stock was 14.85 @ 92mph. After putting in Hooker Super Comp shorties (2055), ram air, k&n, msd, I ran a best of 14.20 @ 97mph. Hoping for 13s after installing 3.73 gears. These times are all at sea level. A pair of headers should get you in the 14 second zone.

1988 Iroc-Z
5.7L TPI, 700r-4 , 2.73 (right now)
Hooker headers
Flowmaster 80 series muffler, no cat
K & N, Holley AFPR
MSD 6AL and wires
Bosch +4

 

My car has run a best of 14.45 @96 and my 2.2 60 ft was on nearly brand new tires. So i would go more toward suspension mods of course get some headers. I have yet to install mine but i am hoping to pick up maybe .2 and then get 60ft time to about 2.0x that should get me about 13.9-14.0.

 

I have a 89 iroc with a completly stock 350 tpi. I have 8.5mm wires,msd blaster coil, k&n air filters, cat back exaust, B&M shift kit, and the megashifter with a 3.27 rear from a 87 camaro. With this setup i ran 14.49 @ 96.97mph. Thats with a 40-80 pound sound system. With these mods and a set of headers or a 3.73 rear you sould hit the very high 13's

Hope this helps and Good Luck

 

What did the wires and coil cost you? What about the cost on the K&N? Anybody know if the 3.27 in '87 IROC's are a posi, or open rear end? Thanks guys, this is good stuff.

 

If your rear end is a 9 bolt borg warner then it is posi.

 

I guess I'll just do a little power brake and find out for sure on the rear end. Car's registered and insured now, going to go get it Saturday. Can't wait.

 

I also ran a high 14s with the stock 305/5spd in my Z28. Now I have a 383/auto combo and have not gone to the track yet. Lots of tuning delays have kept me from getting to the strip.

With a well running 350 and some minor help in the air flow department you should see low 14s easy, I think. After you do some minor things like exhaust, air cleaners, and air foil, etc. you may want to dive in with a little more cam and some porting. I had good results when I added bigger runners to my engine and ported the upper plenum. Felt great on the butt dyno!!

 

This may help you:

http://www.geocities.com/deetree.geo

I started out with a 89 Iroc 350 TPI/auto with 2.77 posi
I have several time slips for almost every mod I've done.

 

My sig is my stock time, and it was a cold day in fall. So u should AT LEAST hit low 14s, but with good traction, who knows, maybe better.

Stupid question What does AFPR stand for again? Its something do with Cold Air Induction?

 

AFPR: Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

 

I know you already said you'd rather not get headers but... they are an important step in achieving 14.0 on an L98.

I think you could get the desired time with several different approaches. If you sprang for an aftermarket TPI setup I don't think you'd need exhaust to get there.

Edelbrocks TPI baseplate and Runner combo is now only 650 bucks in Summit! You'll rev to 5500, and make more power throughout your whole powerband.

Then again, A cat-back and headers cost about the same if you shop smart, and with a few smaller mods and free mods I think you'd get the same times...

 

D Stroy H8<<< The more I look into it, the more I think your right, headers are the way to go. I might go used, none air type 1 3/4, and ditch my smog junk. That along with the ARAP chip, good airflow in, and 180stat, should get me close.

 

I ran 14.00's with: stock 87' 350 TPI motor, stock PROM, gutted cat, muffler, AFPR, ported pluenum and base, air foil, K&N's, stall converter, LCA's, PH rod, UD pullies.

 

ARAP is going to have too much timing for your stock heads.

 

I shed about .2 seconds with free mods and a tune up on my IROC. you said fuel economy was an issue, but if you really want to get low 14s, get a 2000 rpm converter, 3.73s, and a few minor mods, AFPR, free mods, and exhaust. You should be running about a 14 flat with that stuff. But why run 14 flat when you can run 13s with a port job, cam, and t/c?

oOHH, I just forgot, throw on a 100 shot, keep mild manners on the street, and spray the crap out of it when you're in a race. You'll do 13s with a 100 shot easy. Just make sure you know what you are doing before you play with the giggle juice.

 

The more I think about it tho... a mild approach in all fields - breathing, power transfer, ignition, and suspension should net you high 13's...

Like this: (rough prices)

IGNITION
MSD 6al box - 150.00
8mm Wires - 50.00
Aftermarket coil, cap, and rotor - 100.00
Fresh plugs - 20.00

BREATH
Cut the air boxes (K&N a must) - free!
Get a used throttle body foil (good for 10cfm) - 30.00
Uprgrade TPI setup or Exhaust or a compromise of both - 800.00

POWER TRANSFER
Shift kit - 110.00
Mild stall (2000-2400) - 300.00

SUSPENSION
Subframes - 120.00
LCA's - 150.00

Around 2,000 bucks. Given, there are cheaper ways to achieve 14.0 et's but you'd have a good start on a well rounded streeter if ever you decide to delve deeper into the maelstrom

 

Some of the guys were mentioning suspension stuff to help run lower ets. I think with some et street slicks or drag radials and subframe connectors and LCAs with reloction brackets you will have much better traction. An adjustable torque arm is a good thing to have also.

How is the condition of the motor now? Is it well maintained and strong running? A good short block is a must when going for more power and especially if you plan on drag racing. Good luck, I sure you will reach your goal and beyond with the suggestions you have recieved thus far.

 

Hey buddy are you for real ? Pizza ? Delivery ? You ought to do that in a Toyota Tercel.

But if you must then get serious and forget the low 14s bull -- for now.

Spend your first $1000 on tuning the car back to factory spec -- it is used after all -- that includes ignition, brakes and suspension. Ok before you wig out on me you are going to be driving this car hard, in any weather condition and for business. (Curious how your insurance company feels about this ?). Have you checked into what it costs to put new rubber on four corners ? Make a few calls for 245/50 16s and see what you think ? You need a car that starts ALL the time which means your battery and starter have to be up to snuff as well.

If the car is in perfect shape now (doubtful) then disregard my comments. If not, if it needs work, you can be sure that if you pile a ton of miles on the car in the next several months you are going to have all kinds of basic maintenance work required and this on top of the work that should have been done from the outset but was not because you spent the money on mods...

Trust me you won't care what the car can do in the 1/4 if it spends most of it's life on a tow-truck or in the shop.

I'll take a large pepperoni please,
RP.

 

Parlic, your the man! I was waiting for the Pizza jokes to start. I make a good buck delivering though. I got a 92 Merc Sable wagon I got to put together, then I can use that for the pizza stuff, but that will be a long summer project. Front got ran over by a semi... low speed accident, but it did a lot. Motor didn't get touched, but everything else in the front is basically trashed. So until then, the mighty IROC will be taking around pizza's. And your deffinalty right, reliablitity is always the number one concern!!! It is in good shape, I'll just have to keep my eyes on the stuff like brakes and rubber. BTW, I have a free good rubber source... I think they can get me 16" 245's... Good ol Ford dealership always puts fresh rubber on trade ins... I haven't bought a tire in years.

 

Ok, sanity prevails I take it then you plan on using the IROC for deliveries in the short term then later the Sable -- once it gets fixed ?

Glad to hear you have a line on tires I have to replace mine soon (ouch). With all due respect may I suggest still holding off on the go fast mods ? Instead do mods that will improve the car in it's delivery role until you get the Merc fixed ?

Eg: upgrade rotors and brake pads, cold-air intake, install LCAs and panhard bar, check out a Jacobs Ultra Team ignition (I have one they work). These kinds of mods are not wasted and you will eventually want to do them anyway -- they are not as glamorous as TPI and exhaust upgrades.

my .02 cents worth,
RP.

 

Thats very good thinking, to start where you really need to and then build from there... which is what I'll have to do. The whole looking for even 14's was just kind of to get an idea on everybodies idea of which mods work out best. But yeah, she's gotta be all ship shape before going fast. Should be fun tomorrow, gotta drive it from Boston to it's new home in NY, the weather was crappy today, doesn't look much better for tomorrow. And me with my posi rear end.... what oh what shall I do?

 

ditto


they don't sound as good but will help you in the long run, making it better for your current needs but also perparing the car for some real hp.

 

I ran consistent 14.0's on 2.0 60' times with these mods: Edelbrock intake, SLP runners, ported plenum, Holley AFPR, March pulleys, MSD 6a, Moroso Blue Max wires, Borla cat-back, Hypercrap stage 2 chip, Transgo shift kit, 3.45 gears, Kyb Agx shocks and struts, Eibach drag springs.

 

Ok guys, while were on mods... the AFPR. I've seen the table in the FAQ about being able to get about 19hp, and more torque across the board, with just a AFPR at 50psi. I've also heard somewhere on these boards that its , that those numbers were achived on a 305 with other mods to compliment the fuel pressure increase. Thoughts?

 

That sounds a little optimisitic to me.
Maybe some gains, but 19hp? No way I have to call bs.

 

I think that chart is from TPIS and those numbers were achieved on a pretty stout 383.

 

Yeah, the gains just seemed way to incredible to be true... for a stock motor... a done up job might need the extra fuel, but I doubt the claims highly. We should talk to the person who is in charge of the FAQ.

 

Vigilante.

 

someone deff. needs to change that cause it says done a stock 350... i thought stock 350's ran 14.3-14.5.. .5ths can be gone with some free mods, headers, cat back, and a afpr.. I ran a 15.3 on a hot day in bad contions and no tune up... i could probably run a 15 on a good, cool night with good traction.. i dont think that a 350's should be runnin high 14's.. i do not mean to flame... i say get ur car up to top shape with tune up and upgrade your ignition with a MSD blaster coil and some 8.5 wires, and do a base line... then free mods like porting plenum, cut air boxes or make a CAI. TB coolant bypass, remove whatnot, etc.. .then make another run to see where u are at and see what that netted ya in the 1/4.. then throw on headers and cat back to take that bad air away from the engine and put on an AFPR and then see whats going on...I wouldnt be surprised if u got 14 flat with that... then after u get some money.. do a search on intakes, heads, cams, rr's, and most important.. custom chips... good luck with the project... and good lookin car.. i love all 87's! peace man
Alex

 

Good points -- I can't believe how many times I've seen guys start throwing money at upgrades before they know how many volts the coil is putting out or if the plug wires all have the same resistance or the O2 sensor is shot... etc... etc... etc... then they wonder why they are pulling 15.2s with a 350 ???

About the AFPR, I looked into this last year and found the numbers from tech notes were somewhat misleading (if I remember correctly I called TPIS, Crane and Holley to find out).

I asked some guys who were using them on mildly mod'd stockers (5.0, 5.7) and they all said NO to HP gains but YES to torque gains -> as per dyno testing. They would dial it in at stock PSI for one pull then pump it up for the next. One guy with a '91 LB9 says he saw 16lbs torque gain between the stock PSI and stock PSI + 5lbs. This makes sense to me I would not expect to see HP gains using an AFPR.

my .02 cents worth,
RP.

 

HP is relative to torque. It is impossible to gain to torque without gaining HP. That does not mean the HP peak must increase, just a HP increase at that RPM in which the torque increased.

I did receive a 10-15HP and 10-15 FT-LBs (both peak increases)increase by bumping up my fuel pressure from 48-52 psi while I was having my Iroc dynoed. This is a 383 with quite a few mods so don't let me mislead anyone. An AFPR is an excellent tuning tool. Without it I would have had more than 10-15HP difference because my stock FP was around 44psi. Most stock cars don't need more fuel than 44-46psi so an AFPR may not give them any gains. Due to factory variances some cars stock FP could be in the high 30s though!

 

I ran a best of 14.3 in my 87 IROC 5.7/auto/3.27 gears/BFG ZR rated tires

Only mods were a SLP catback and SLP torque converter. I think the mph were around 96-98.

Later

 

My best time with boltons was 14.36@96, boltons being headers, stall, and CAI. I was kinda disappointed but I later found 6-10deg of timing was being pulled at WOT from 2000-3000 and again at 4000-5000, robbing me of hp.

 

i have a 89 tpi 350 iroc and i was wondering about thr free mods u are talking about, is there a thread or website that will show me how to do this

 

is your friend.

 

I know this thread is old but if all you are looking for is bottom 14s, you don't need a lot of mods unless you live some place that has a really crappy DA all year (real high elevation areas). I went 14.3@95 with a catback, cutout, AFPR and a set of nittos. That run was done on 7 cylinders as well since shortly after the run one injector finally died (you could feel the miss during the pass).

Installing the nittos and working on the launch netted me 6 tenths alone. Work on getting the car to go as fast as it can before you add a whole lot of parts. Once you can't get it to go any faster, look at what is holding you back and replace that. Do it systematically and you won't have a problem nor will it break the bank.

 

I agree.

ARAP is an Aluminum Head bin, and will have about 6 degrees too much timing for your Iron Head engine.

 

vortec heads, edelbrock performer rpm intake, 650 dp holley, comp xe268 cam, 1 5/8" headers, catback, 2500 stall converter, old school hei with msd chip and coil. 1500 bucks max.
the look on your friends faces when they ask you what your ecu is tweaked to,
priceless