Pulling AIR, A/C, EGR on 86 IROC
02-12-2003, 04:28 PM
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Pulling AIR, A/C, EGR on 86 IROC
Anyone have any help on this one? I have already pulled the AC compressor, condenser and AIR pump. I want to take this crap off so i can clean up my engine compartment, lighten up and get a few ponies. I have my hood off, so im doing all the underhood stuff i can. Any help here is appreciated, im probably going to get started on it tonight. Also, any tips or clues on cleaning up wiring and other things in the eng. compartment would be MOST appreciated.
02-12-2003, 05:50 PM
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Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Funny you should mention that... I finished doing the same thing on my '86 IROC just last night. I didn't do away with the AIR pump or the EGR valve, but I did remove my A/C and redo a lot of the wiring. Here are some pictures of my mostly-finished engine bay.
You said that you pulled the A/C compressor and condenser. Did you remove the evaporator, too? It's located on the firewall, inside of the blower motor box. I have mine off right now; I'm going to be building a custom blower enclosure. I suppose that you could just leave the box alone, but there's a lot of space to be freed up.
The EGR valve is located underneath the plenum (assuming that you have a TPI motor). I pulled mine off to clean it and get it tested, then I put it right back on. Based upon what I've heard, it's not really a great idea to remove the EGR. Rather than risking a problem, I just left it go. I did have to buy a new EGR temperature sending unit; the old one broke when I removed it.
Here are two examples of cleaning up the wiring. The first one merely restored this to the factory look, and the second one made an aftermarket fan switch look factory. For the most part, I just used black wire loom and electrical tape. I also tore into the actual wiring (fuel injectors, alternator, etc.), but I only did that because I wanted to make sure that the previous owner didn't screw anything up when they swapped engines (there were a few oddball things they did).
This last picture shows the AIR tubes that go to the exhaust manifolds. Those would have to go if you're removing the AIR injection system, but I'm not sure how you'd plug the holes on the exhaust manifolds.
Hope this helps... and welcome to Thirdgen.org!
You said that you pulled the A/C compressor and condenser. Did you remove the evaporator, too? It's located on the firewall, inside of the blower motor box. I have mine off right now; I'm going to be building a custom blower enclosure. I suppose that you could just leave the box alone, but there's a lot of space to be freed up.
The EGR valve is located underneath the plenum (assuming that you have a TPI motor). I pulled mine off to clean it and get it tested, then I put it right back on. Based upon what I've heard, it's not really a great idea to remove the EGR. Rather than risking a problem, I just left it go. I did have to buy a new EGR temperature sending unit; the old one broke when I removed it.
Here are two examples of cleaning up the wiring. The first one merely restored this to the factory look, and the second one made an aftermarket fan switch look factory. For the most part, I just used black wire loom and electrical tape. I also tore into the actual wiring (fuel injectors, alternator, etc.), but I only did that because I wanted to make sure that the previous owner didn't screw anything up when they swapped engines (there were a few oddball things they did).
This last picture shows the AIR tubes that go to the exhaust manifolds. Those would have to go if you're removing the AIR injection system, but I'm not sure how you'd plug the holes on the exhaust manifolds.
Hope this helps... and welcome to Thirdgen.org!
02-12-2003, 06:22 PM
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Blue, AWESOME info man, that was exactly what i was looking for.
For the AIR tubes, i was planning on just going to the hardware store and getting some brass plugs that have the same thread pattern and plugging them up. either that or i could weld them.
As far as the EGR, i personally am just tired of having the stupid SES light on... i know its throwing a EGR code, and ive already spent a hundred bucks for some idiot dealer to look at it and tell me theres nothing wrong... Oh well.
Again thanks a lot of the info and pics!!!
BTW, did you have to replace the gaskets for your plenum when you took it off, or can you re-use the stock ones?
LOVE the car man, blue is the best color these cars ever came in!
For the AIR tubes, i was planning on just going to the hardware store and getting some brass plugs that have the same thread pattern and plugging them up. either that or i could weld them.
As far as the EGR, i personally am just tired of having the stupid SES light on... i know its throwing a EGR code, and ive already spent a hundred bucks for some idiot dealer to look at it and tell me theres nothing wrong... Oh well.
Again thanks a lot of the info and pics!!!
BTW, did you have to replace the gaskets for your plenum when you took it off, or can you re-use the stock ones?
LOVE the car man, blue is the best color these cars ever came in!
Last edited by pickardracing; 02-12-2003 at 06:40 PM.
02-12-2003, 06:56 PM
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Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Thanks for the compliment on my car 
. The brass plug idea sounds like it would work. If you're adding headers, you could just buy a version that doesn't have AIR tube inlets. I'm not positive, but you may have to have your PROM set up differently if you disable your EGR. I haven't gotten into custom chip burning yet, but I think I read that somewhere. And about the gaskets... depending on how gummed up your stock gaskets are, you could *probably* reuse them -- but if it were my car I wouldn't. For a few dollars, it's safer just to buy new gaskets and throw away the old ones. If you pull off the throttle body when you remove the plenum, remember to get a throttle body gasket... that's like another $3. Also, don't use RTV in conjunction with the intake gaskets. You want a metal-to-gasket-to-metal bond.
. The brass plug idea sounds like it would work. If you're adding headers, you could just buy a version that doesn't have AIR tube inlets. I'm not positive, but you may have to have your PROM set up differently if you disable your EGR. I haven't gotten into custom chip burning yet, but I think I read that somewhere. And about the gaskets... depending on how gummed up your stock gaskets are, you could *probably* reuse them -- but if it were my car I wouldn't. For a few dollars, it's safer just to buy new gaskets and throw away the old ones. If you pull off the throttle body when you remove the plenum, remember to get a throttle body gasket... that's like another $3. Also, don't use RTV in conjunction with the intake gaskets. You want a metal-to-gasket-to-metal bond.
02-16-2003, 04:21 PM
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Hey Blue, I got everything fixed up and good, thanks for the help. I did manage to get all the AIR components off and i went to my local machine shop for some plugs, they work great, no leaks, no problems. I got just one question about the blower box, what do you plan on doing for a custom one? Let me know, im interested in your plans, maybe we can swap ideas.
02-17-2003, 09:09 AM
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Great, glad to hear that you got everything removed that you wanted!
Check out this thread. DM91RS built a custom AC heater box when he removed the air conditioning. It's basically what I'm planning on doing. A friend of mine is going to help me fabricate the box. My car is going to be a "guinea pig," for the most part, because we're doing the same thing to his truck after he lowers it. He's trying to clean up the firewall as much as he can.
Another thing: there's always the possibility of finding a non-AC Camaro or Firebird (I also understand that early GM trucks had the same design) and taking the heater box from that. It'll look factory. The only disadvantage is that you'll have to find a different blower motor fan because the box is a little smaller.
Check out this thread. DM91RS built a custom AC heater box when he removed the air conditioning. It's basically what I'm planning on doing. A friend of mine is going to help me fabricate the box. My car is going to be a "guinea pig," for the most part, because we're doing the same thing to his truck after he lowers it. He's trying to clean up the firewall as much as he can.
Another thing: there's always the possibility of finding a non-AC Camaro or Firebird (I also understand that early GM trucks had the same design) and taking the heater box from that. It'll look factory. The only disadvantage is that you'll have to find a different blower motor fan because the box is a little smaller.
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