WELL AS I WAS WELDING THE EXAUST ALL PROUD THAT I HAD A WELDED SYSTEM . A WEEK LATER MY FUEL PUMP WENT .
SO INSTEAD OF TEARING THE NEW EXAUST OFF I PULLED UP THE CARPET AND CUT A HOLE OVER THE TOP OF THE TANK.
I WENT AS FAR AS MAKING A NEW DOOR WITH GASKETS AROUND IT AND HINGE AND SLIDE LOCK.
NOT REALLY THE WHAT I WANTED TO DO BUT IF YOU DONT WANT TO TEAR OFF EVERYTHING TO DROP TANK THIS WORKS WELL NO FUMES AND TOO AN HOUR. . P.S. ALL HOSES WERE CUT TO REMOVE THE PUMP, AND REATTACHED WITH HIGH PRESSURE HOSE. PUT CARPET BACK AND NO ONE IS THE WISER.
AND I DIDNT HAVE TO DRAIN DROP AND SWEAR FOR A COUPLE OF HOUR, ESPECIALY SINCE I DONT HAVE A HOIST AND THIS WAS ALL DONE WITHOUT JACKIN IT UP.

 

I've heard of more than a few people that have hacked their car up to do a fuel pump that way, and it is a shame. It does not take any longer to just do it the right way, and in the end you don't have a car with a compromised unibody and and potentially disastrous high pressure fuel leak directly above the exhaust.

I see your concern about the welded exhaust, but once you drop the rear you can unbolt the exhaust at the cat and pull it out of the way anyway.

 

I posted this on another board. Sure, it's great not to hack up the car. But what about those who are stranded 500 miles from home with no tools or cash to have a tow truck or friends to pick you up?

Just curious what anyone thinks of this without flaming me. This is for the people who like the idea of being able to change the pumps quickly but don't want to mess up their cars structural support. I would consider it if it's possible.
I was thinking you could go to the junkyard and finding a VW Jetta or similar car with the fuel pump access in the trunk (if it's big enough). I think these have a metal cap that you have to open with a hammer and screwdriver. They should even have rubber seals to keep the fumes out. You could cut out that section along with about 6" surrounding it with a saw, weld it to a square of jointed small diameter tube steel, and then weld it to the hole in the cars floor above the gas tank (which would have to be removed for safety) This would make a very clean and safe install the way the factory should have made it. The tube steel welded to the floor would add the structural support. I might draw something up on CAD to show what I am talking about.

 

Well, many tow trucks take credit cards, so having cash is not really an issue.

There are aftermarket pumps that are outside the fuel tank. I can't remember a link to the popular one, but I know folks do it. Personally, I'd prefer not to hack up the car that way. There's always a scenario where you will be stranded, so carrying a spare fuel pump around doesn't make much sense. I would consider the alternative external pump over cutting a hole in the interior of the car.

 

Hey, you guys can do whatever you want, it's not my car, and hopefully i never drive in one of those potential fireballs either. The issue isn't even just teh hole in the floor. It's the fact that you have to cut the lines to still get it out. Unless you hack out enough floor to pull the whole hardlines, but then you would definitely be compromising the structural integrity of the car.

If you really want to weld in some kind of trap door, do yourself a favor and at least flare the hard lines where you cut them and run some braided lines or something instead. Don't be cheap and risk your life, as well as your passengers and anybody on the road near you to hose clamps holding 50psi fuel pressure directly above your freakin muffler. Even flaring the hard lines and double clamping is not fool proof. And it's not like it's in a spot you can periodically check it to make sure it isn't seeping anything.

But IO, if you're that worried about swapping the FP multiple times, then just run an external fuel pump and be done with it. Or learn how to do it the right way. I know a few people that can do a fuel pump job ina thirdgen in a matter of just an hour or 2. It's not that hard, just about using your head. IIRC it goes something like this. Take off the shocks and on the DS LCA and panhard and get teh rear as far as teh brake lines will let you go. Then unbolt the exhaust at the cat and pull it out of the way. Then shimmy the tank out. Off the top of my head that sounds like at most 6-8 bolts plus the tank straps. Oh the horror.

 

What do you do when you shell a rear end, or throw a rod through the block? Some jobs are harder than others. Any way you slice this idea, and no matter which side of the fence you're on about it, one word describes it:

Shortcut.

 

I once blew a rear end. Cost well over 300 to get it home. I expected to be flamed for my idea. Sorry I even posted it.


I agree, it's dangerous to just stick a rubber hose on there. I wouldn't do it unless I was using good hose and connections. And even then, it's not foolproof. I was just considering it. That's all.

 

I wasn't trying to jump on you. OK i was, but thats just because people do take that 'shortcut' and end up with a hacked up car with a HUGE safety hazard. I would seriously not want to drive in a car that had it's fuel lines hacked like that unless they were fxed with good hard connections. Clamps are not the same thing no matter how well done they are.

I add the 'it's not my car' part because its not. Just because I and many other people think doing that is stupid doesn't mean you have to listen to us. I could care less if you blow yourself up really as long as debris don't get me. Thats what i don't get about the internet. If you post something you're going to get OPINIONS. If you don't like what you hear, then don't get upset, jst ignore it. If it really bothers you that much, it's only because you know the criticism is right and the real conflict is in your own head because you don't want to believe it.

 

Oh I hear you. Really I didn't think of the fuel hose problem. I am just looking at the options. I am putting a Walbro in there so I hope it will last me a long time and I won't have to worry about it. I'll be doing it the right way for now.

I am curious. What about the cars that come factory with this fuel pump access option? What do they have for hose near the tank. It has to be flexable I assume?

 

the first time my FP left my TPI stranded I went and bought an inline for a honda CRX (1987 I think, looks just like the accel inline) cut the rubber feed line in the engine compartment, put the inline in it with two hose clamps, basic wire it up, and drove 500 miles like normal all the way home. when I got home I replaced the cut line with one from a wrecking yard car, dropped my tank for the last time ever, replaced the intank pump pickup with a modified carbed pick up and ran the same inline for years, until I replaced it with an SX (formerly paxton, now aeromotive).

 

Prime example of a car w/ a fuel pump access door: 1997-Current Buick Park Avenue (C-body). They have the connection right at the sending unit assembly w/ nylon high pressure lines. The difference between a '97+ C Body and an '82-92 F body is that the Park Aves were ENGINEERED to accomodate this design. the thirdgen F bods WERE NOT, therefore, altering the body structure and fuel supply system creates reliablity and saftey issues. Thirdgen cars have a weak unibody construction as it is, let alone comprimising its integrity to save a few bucks.

If you do it right, and use a good quality part, then "quick changes" will not be nesaccary. If you want the ability to make quick changes, then you need to invest in an external pump. Just my 2¢

 

Doesn't anyone know how to flare fuel lines and install fittings on them? What's with the hoses and clamps all the time? As far as the structural compromise, if you crimp a flange around the opening and avoid corners that will cause stress risers (radius the opening), I seriously doubt you'll EVER have a problem. It won't be any weaker than it is now. Your cars are all swiss cheesed already from the factory. Ever look at how they do it? If you take the time to do it right, it's not a hack job. You can't just hack any hole in the floor though, cut the lines, slap hose on it and RTV a piece of metal over the hole and call it a day. It'll probably be easier to drop the rear and tank instead of doing an access panel properly, but that's only the first time, the next time it'll pay off. Just don't do a half-assed job if you go the hole in the floor route.

 

The problem is, that is what most people have in mind.

 

Not I .

Not going to do it that way now anyhow. I was just throwing some ideas around. I guess it's hard for you to believe but some of us on here are not babbling morons who destroy our cars out of stupidity.

 

When you offer as much technical assistance as I do, you have to assume the worst. If I don't already know you, I have to assume you have never even had the hood up. Didn't mean to belittle you. I help alot of people have ZERO car experience or knowledge.

If done right, I'm sure the access door could be made to work, and work well. But I have yet to come across somebody to actually "follow through" with the "great idea".

 

I swapped mine out for a Walbro 255 last year. I wasn't looking forward to doing it after hearing some people complain about the install. It was a peice of cake....it will go much smoother if you have already replaced your control arms/panhard rod with aftermarket peices.

My exhaust is welded everywhere except for the over the axle pipe. That way I can pull it when I need to change the pump.

 

I am just wondering if anyone happens to have a diagram or know where I can get one of where and how to cut an access door to change the fuel pump on a '99 firebird?

 

Why is everybody so down on access door mods?

If the factory has done it, NOBODY would complain, and say "I'm welding that damn thing shut! I'll just spend 2+ hours vs. 15 minutes, and drop the tank."

There are a LOT of other cars with access doors. If GM puts one in the new 5th gen, is it a hazard? NO

As for losing "structural integrity", that area of the floor provides little (if any) support anyways.

I guess all those Pre Streeters with fuel cells are rolling hazards....

 

Its hillarious to see that for every thread about the access door, instead of knowledgable discussion you get people who jump on you with the word "HACK".
First of all, if you don't want to do this to your car and do not agree with it, just don't post. Really, if you don't have anything nice to say, and are here to just give crap to the guy who did it, just don't say anything.
I am personally tired of searching for an intelligent access door post that has a nice write up (which I found one semi good one) because people get flamed to death.

I think that a correctly done access door is not a hack by any means. Many, and if you do your research, many cars have access holes, unibody or full frame cars.
With that said, I changed my pump "the correct" way and it wasn't that hard, but the pain of busted knuckles and just the long *** time it took (welded exhaust) i don't look forward to doing it again.

It would be awsome if someone actually did their access door with flared high pressure fittings and braided lines with a nice trap door. Would love to see the write up on that.

 

I will ask again, does anyone know where exactly to cut the access door to change the fuel pump in a 99 firebird.

 

Wow this thread is old LOL....

Jenn5198 try the fourth gen boards, I'm sure they'll have pictures of the process...;

http://www.LS1tech.com & http://www.LS1.com

 

Thanks

 

Hey Jenn,

Here ya go https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...ghlight=access

Not be an ***, but all it took was a bit of searching (which I did for you)

 

Maybe its referred to as a hackjob because 90% of the ones out there with this 'mod' are just that, a hackjob.

OE has them, yes. Silly argument. They also design the car to withstand accidents and not rip tanks open with poorly or completely unreinforced sheetmetal and machine screws protruding less than 1/8" from the tank. Nobody here has done any testing to provide a completely safe mod, and never will. Risks are taken, ones I wont take with my car.

 

Since a 4th gen tank fits a 3rd gen perfect, I'd say you could probably use measurements off a 3rd gen who's done it.

Take a 1/2" drill bit. Drill center, left to right but JUST BARELY. DO NOT GO ANY DEEEPER THAN NEEDED!

With that, you can see how far out to go to get around the pump & line fittings.

 

if you read my post you will see that I said that a correctly done access door is not a hack job by any means. Later on I explained what I meant.

We should probably stop fighting as to who is correct in this matter. The people that don't like it dissmiss it without much thought, and people that like it usually are the ones that usually don't want to spend a lot of time and mone, and dont really know how to do it properly. So, instead of fighting lets all figure out how to do this properly and make everyone happier.