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Old Jun 1, 2003 | 07:48 PM
  #51  
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From: Chandler AZ
what was the hardest part of the swamp?
The hardest thing was changing out the fuel pump. I made it a little more difficult than it had to be. At the time I thought I only had like 2-3 gallons in it, so I siphoned and it stopped at like 2 gallons. When I got the tank unbolted it was pretty heavy, turned out I had ~4.5 gallons left in it. The whole job took me around 7 hours to do. Dropping in the engine was also difficult, took forever to line up on the trans.

Well on the motor now, the battery is charging have everything hooked up. I will try to start it later tonight. Hopefully it will start right up but with my luck I will have some electrical problems to sort out. Can't spend too long on it tonight, summer school starts tomorrow at ASU, fun.
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Old Jun 1, 2003 | 08:33 PM
  #52  
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: LG4
Transmission: 200C
Axle/Gears: 3:73
yeah thats why I want an inline fuel pump if I ever go over to tpi. No need to take out the tank.
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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 05:43 AM
  #53  
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From: Plano, TX
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
Is that a Stewart Component's Water Pump? It looks like the exact same one I bought for my 400. Did you have any clearance problems with it and your acc. brackets? My pass. side bracket needs to be shaved a bit so it will clear the pump, and the drivers side bracket needs a little clearancing due to my Tavia timing pointer, and it looks like even after thats fixed, it may hit the pump as well
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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 07:31 AM
  #54  
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From: Severn, MD.
Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
I rwecently did the same swap and encountered about every wiring problem you could imagine. If you have any questions just let me know.

Did you have those heads flowed before you bolted them on? I 'm dying to see how those heads flow.
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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 07:35 AM
  #55  
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From: West Des Moines, IA
Car: 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Engine: 2.3 DISI Turbo
Transmission: 6 speed MT
Originally posted by JR305
Here is a pic I just took, motor does not look as good as it did on the stand though.
I disagree with you there. I think it looks just as hot in the car as on the engine stand! Great looking swap!
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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 07:37 AM
  #56  
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From: West Des Moines, IA
Car: 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Engine: 2.3 DISI Turbo
Transmission: 6 speed MT
Originally posted by JR305
Here is a pic I just took, motor does not look as good as it did on the stand though.
Oops, double post...

Last edited by bnoon; Jun 13, 2003 at 07:40 AM.
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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 06:53 PM
  #57  
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From: Chandler AZ
Is that a Stewart Component's Water Pump?
Yeah, it’s a Stewart stage 2 water pump. I had no fitting problems, I can dig up the part number if you want.

Did you have those heads flowed before you bolted them on?
No, I didn't have them flowed. The castings looked great though. Their is a guy that posted his flow results on the Aftermarket review board. I think they were 2-3 cfms higher than pro topline's website. I also was expecting having some electrical gremlins to work out but the car started right up (after I fixed a slight regulator problem). The only problem I have found is that my gas gauge stays pegged on full even though I only have like 4-5 gallons in it. Please tell me I don't have to drop the tank again!!

I disagree with you there. I think it looks just as hot in the car as on the engine stand! Great looking swap!
Thanks a lot. I guess it looks good, but it was spotless on the stand. It definitely looks MUCH better than the old 305 TBI
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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 11:21 PM
  #58  
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From: Plano, TX
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
Stewart Components #23123, right? I'll try to snap some pics of my interference tomorrow. Maybe they changed something? My pump was a brand new casting, it was backordered for a couple weeks while new ones were being made.
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Old Jun 17, 2003 | 11:08 AM
  #59  
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iron or aluminum?

Great looking buildup? Just curious, are those Pro Topline heads iron or aluminum? I'm going to go with the 180cc version, but I'm trying to decide between iron and aluminum.

Also, did you have any work done to the heads (porting, etc), or are you using them strait "out of the box"?

take care,

Jason G
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Old Jun 17, 2003 | 05:16 PM
  #60  
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From: Chandler AZ
I am running the 200cc iron heads. I did not do any work to them, they looked great out of the box. Hopefully I can get some dyno numbers soon.

Here is a pic of the completed engine in this thread https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...readid=185458. I just need to replace my coolant and wiper tanks.
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Old Jun 19, 2003 | 03:22 PM
  #61  
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From: Houston Area
Car: Faster
Engine: Than
Transmission: You!
Those look like aluminum heads???
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Old Jun 20, 2003 | 11:22 AM
  #62  
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Nope, Iron. I wish they sent me aluminum by mistake, but these heads were too heavy to be aluminum.
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Old Jun 20, 2003 | 12:12 PM
  #63  
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From: Houston Area
Car: Faster
Engine: Than
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Well, they look like aluminum anyways! If they are indeed iron, I would paint them with high temp engine paint or they are going to rust bad! Have you driven it yet?

Mike
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Old Jun 20, 2003 | 01:59 PM
  #64  
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From: Oklahoma City
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: See Signature
Transmission: B&M 700r4
they are going to rust? why?
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Old Jun 20, 2003 | 07:09 PM
  #65  
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From: absecon,new jersey
Car: 73 corvette
Engine: 2004 ls1
Transmission: 700r4
if they are bare steel with nothing on them they will rust.... i have world products sportsman 2 heads on mine and i clear coated them,still look like new.
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Old Jun 20, 2003 | 07:42 PM
  #66  
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From: Chandler AZ
Have you driven it yet?
Not yet, I have just started it. I only get a round 1 day a week to work on the car so progress is slow. I have been trying to get a friend to come over and weld my exhaust and LCA relocation brackets up. Should happen this weekend. Thats all thats left.

I don't think I will have to worry about rust out here in AZ. Its rare for our humidity to go above 5%.
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Old Jun 21, 2003 | 03:06 PM
  #67  
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From: Oklahoma City
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: See Signature
Transmission: B&M 700r4
how soon do they rust, mine have been on for 3 months or so, the iron ones
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Old Jun 22, 2003 | 12:43 PM
  #68  
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Well, the car is finally on the road. I have a few bugs to work out though. After 3k rpm the car takes off, I have yet to give it more than 1/2 throttle. This cam has more low end than I thought, completely drivable, no low vacuum problems (brakes/power steering).

I think I have a dead cat converter though, when I was putting my exhaust back on I could hear some rattling in it when I shook it. Sounded like something was kind of just rolling around in there. Also would a dead cat quiet the car down, I think my old engine was louder. So I will probably end up replacing it.

Also I don't have the speedo hooked up right now so this probably causing my problem. Some times when I am driving and engine brake to slow down I get an SES light. Then if I let the car come to an idle it will die.
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Old Jun 22, 2003 | 04:14 PM
  #69  
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From: Jacksonville, NC
Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
Originally posted by JR305
Also I don't have the speedo hooked up right now so this probably causing my problem. Some times when I am driving and engine brake to slow down I get an SES light. Then if I let the car come to an idle it will die.
I assume you have a VSS since you said the SES comes on. I had the same sounding problem with light coming on and dying at idle before I hooked up a VSS after I swapped in my 383/TH-350. I also got the SES when I drove at RPMs higher than 3000.
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Old Jun 23, 2003 | 12:27 PM
  #70  
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I did some searching and I think that my problem should go away once I get my speedo hooked up. The car drives fine when the SES light comes one, it will just die if I let it go to idle.
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Old Jun 24, 2003 | 02:15 PM
  #71  
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From: Olean NY USA
Car: 1985 Camaro Z28/1989 Pontiac Trans Am GTA
Engine: 305 tpi/350tpi
Transmission: 700r4
how does the power feel compared to the old 305 tbi?
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Old Jun 24, 2003 | 09:27 PM
  #72  
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From: Chandler AZ
The car runs totally different. Pulls like my R6 does .
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Old Jun 25, 2003 | 03:18 PM
  #73  
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From: Selinsgrove, Pa, USA
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 94 p/u motor
Transmission: 700R4 With TCI kit
Hey, I'm looking into HSR too....

I currently have the setup that's in my prof and I'm making about 380hp, so with the stealth ram's numbers, I would expect about 450hp for me, you should be higher. I have some questions for ya about changing the TBI Over, if you could drop me a line, RSCamaroGuy92@yahoo.com it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Old Jun 25, 2003 | 03:20 PM
  #74  
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From: Selinsgrove, Pa, USA
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 94 p/u motor
Transmission: 700R4 With TCI kit
also....

The HSR is designed to give a 'lil less torque than the TPI but better mid-top end so its basically perfect for our cars, since the rears are light and we spin ALOT!!!!! That thing you have there not only looks AWESOME, but I think you might even see 11's?? Crazy, maybe, but It could happen.

Last edited by RSCamaroGuy92; Jun 25, 2003 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2003 | 05:24 PM
  #75  
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From: Chandler AZ
but I think you might even see 11's??
That’s the number I am shooting for.

The hardest part about the swap from TBI to Stealth Ram was changing out the fuel pump. It’s all pretty straight forward, just take out the old harness and put the new one in. It will look a bit overwhelming when you see the harness outside of the car but all the wires run to the correct places. You will have to relocate some sensors but that’s no big deal. Also you will need new fuel lines, I just got some fittings and cut the fuel lines near the Trans and ran braided lines to the fuel rails. Here are the parts I used, which is all you should need. If you have any questions just send me a PM.


3 Aeroquip -6AN Straight swivel fitting = $17.97 ($5.99 each)
1 Aeroquip -6AN 45 degree swivel fitting = 16.99 each
1 Earls Hard tube adapter -6AN to 3/8" = $9.69 each
1 Earls Hard tube adapter -6AN to 5/16" = $9.69 each
1 Aeroquip -6AN steel braided hose 6ft = $27.99 each

Total $82.33

By the way cutting that braided steel line is a pain in the ***. I recommend you practice a few times by cutting several very small pieces off the larger one.
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Old Jun 25, 2003 | 08:06 PM
  #76  
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From: Mesa, AZ: Transplanted from Chicago, IL
To cut the braided line just use a cut-off wheel in a die grinder, works like a charm. No practice needed.
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Old Jun 25, 2003 | 08:28 PM
  #77  
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From: Chandler AZ
I used a dremel high speed cut off disc, but the first 2-3 times I messed up some of the steel threads and couldn't get the fittings on. If you wrap the fittings in some tape tightly it will also make it easier.
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Old Jun 25, 2003 | 08:53 PM
  #78  
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From: Jacksonville, NC
Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
Cut off wheels are great, but in a pinch, a sharp hacksaw works fine too. I agree, wrap the hose tightly in tape...

I never had much trouble with cutting the hose, just getting it into those fittings for the hose ends can try anyones patience...
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Old Jun 25, 2003 | 11:04 PM
  #79  
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Thats right, wrap the end in tape, how did forget that!!!
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Old Jul 14, 2003 | 10:32 AM
  #80  
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From: Lansdale Pa
Car: 90 RS
Engine: 305 TBI - LT1 Cam
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock Crap
I'm looking to do the same thing

I have a 383 coming my way and i have a 305 TBI, and I need to change the fuel injection. Everybody talks about the HSR, did you get the whole deal with the 950 commander and what not? how much did that run you?
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Old Jul 14, 2003 | 06:35 PM
  #81  
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From: Chandler AZ
I did not buy the whole kit. I pieced everything I needed for just over $900. Going with the commander system would be easier to do and tune, but much more expensive. I think those systems run for around 2K. Here’s what I did.

Stealth Ram manifold/ AFPR/ fuel rails: $480 with discount. Thunder Racing
Holley fuel pump: $155 thunder racing.
Ford 30 pound injectors: $150 Ebay, but you can find way cheaper smaller injectors ~$30
Speed density ECM/Harness: $120 thirdgen.org classifieds
Stock 48mm throttle body: $30 thirdgen.org classifieds.
Throttle cable/bracket: $0 got from a friend.
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Old Jul 14, 2003 | 11:29 PM
  #82  
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From: Mesa, AZ: Transplanted from Chicago, IL
JR

You still need the die grinder? Never heard from you over the weekend. Let me know man Ill help you porting it all out as well.

Anyway, got the new motor running, damn it is nasty!!!

Cant wait till fall, you and I will have to roll arounf ASU preying on Cobras and LS1s, those little rich bitches!!!
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Old Jul 15, 2003 | 03:15 PM
  #83  
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From: Chandler AZ
OMINOUS_87 sorry about that, you were right though the ports lined up pretty well. So I didn't think it was really all that necessary, maybe if I had pulled the heads and could have ported them, but not going to do that for a while.

Good to hear that your motor is running. Do you have it on the road? I still have some bugs to work out on mine, I think I have a vacuum leak some where, and still have to get my AC back together.

Cant wait till fall, you and I will have to roll arounf ASU preying on Cobras and LS1s, those little rich bitches!!!
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Old Jul 15, 2003 | 03:54 PM
  #84  
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From: Mesa, AZ: Transplanted from Chicago, IL
She will be on the road this weekend. I broke 2 of the trans crossmemember bolts off when I pulled the trans, so all i really can do is idle it around the block. A friend is picking it up Thursday and trailering it to his shop to get the bolts out, with a torch. Otherwise I am good to go, almost, my starter crapped out 2 days ago, got a mini coming from Summit here tomorrow. My AC system is flushed converted and ready to go, all i need is some vaccum on it and a few cans of R134. I also need an alignment.
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 06:59 AM
  #85  
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Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 cid from a 69 chevy truck
Transmission: original 700r4
I sure have been thinking of getting the stealth ram system for my 86 trans am, it already puts out about 420+ hp at the crank, what do you think the stealth system could do for my car.

I forgot to mention my car is already set up for the weekend drags, I built my car to handle much more than 400 hp. it has been put on a diet and has lost a little over 100lbs . the car can get into the low 11's on a good day at the track, would like to getinto the 10's
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 08:20 AM
  #86  
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
This thread is 2 years old. You should have started a thread of you own....
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 11:05 AM
  #87  
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
Originally posted by John Millican
This thread is 2 years old. You should have started a thread of you own....
LOL I'm still waiting for some numbers lol j/k
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