Well, that stupid seeping going on up near #1 has gotten worse. Since this is my first time pulling the intake, I had a few questions:

How long should I expect? I'm a very experienced wrench, and of course I am expecting difficulty , but what would be a general estimate?

What gaskets are best? I typically use Fel-Pro, but I figured I'd ask if anyone had other suggestions. The setup will be going back together with SLP runners, ported plenum, siamesed and ported base...

I've heard people mention that the stock base is a real restriction. I cannot in any way afford a big runner base, but I am good at porting (I do it semi-professionally). Is there enough meat to open up a stock base? Or is the runner layout of the aftermarket base just better?

Is there anything else I should be looking for while this is apart? Again, no $$ for upgrades, but if there are small free fixes (performance or reliability), I'd love to know...

Thanks in advance!:hail:

 

I would probably set aside a weekend if it's your first manifold remove/replace. TPI intakes are very tedious to work on and you'll want to take your time doing it.

Word of advice- ACCURATELY MARK THE ROTOR LOCATION BEFORE YOU PULL THE DISTRIBUTOR! MAKE SURE YOU DROP THE DISTRIBUTOR BACK IN WITH THE ROTOR POINTING IN THE EXACT SAME SPOT! This is absolutely critical.

 

Use thread sealer on the lower intake bolts so oil dosn't seep up them.

 

what brand is the best thread sealer? im still not sure exactly what to get. Is it like threadlocker, antiseize? You would think working at a parts store would clear this up.

 

On any bolts entering the heads, use a non-hardeneing sealant, like LocTite/ProLock PST:



For any fasteners that enter aluminum that don't have to seal against oil or coolant leakage, use an antiseize compound, such as Permatex 133K or equvalent.

For sealing the intake to the ends of the block, use a small bead of Permatex 6C RTV sealant on both sides of the rubber gaskets provided.

FelPro makes an intake gasket set just for this purpose (MS-93035-1) that has everything you should need except the sealants and a gasket for the water passages on the throttle body. You shouldn't need to disassemble the throttle body, anyway.

While the intake is off, it would be a very good idea to clean and closely inspect the EGR valve. If in doubt, replacing it now could save a lot of hassle later.

Just for reference, intake base bolts should be torqued to 30 ft/lb, runner and plenum boltsshould be torqued to 18ft/lb.

Plan on having penetrating oil on the plenum and runner bolts for a day or more before you disassemble them. You'll also want to have a good quality T-40 Torxdriverto removetheplenum and runner bolts without damage. Be aware of the two "hidden" bolts (one on each side) that hold the runners to the base from the center outward.

 

thank you vader

 

just curious, but would you still torque the intake bolts to 30lb-fts if you have aluminum heads? This might be a dumb question, but I was just wondering, because aluminum is softer, right? Or does that not make a difference? thanks