What do you guys think is the next best bang for the buck mod for my car? 1990 Iroc-Z28 5.7

Catco cats
Flowmaster catback
Air foil
Ported plenum
Accel cap & rotor
GM PP 7mm wires
Rapid fire plugs
K&N filters
BBK AFPR
Underdrive crank pulley

 

Nitrous! :rockon:

 

I dont understand why people like nitrous so much .

Anyways, I would probally suggest a nice pair of headers.

 

I thought it was pretty obvious
Though I'd rather do other mods first, like said headers would help big time.

 

"Best bang for the Buck?!?" HP/$$ = nitrous. Headers are a nice upgrade and should be done with any high performance application but they won't come close to providing the same power as a little spray.

 

Well, NO2 would be the obvious choice. However, thats not really what I'm looking for. I've been told that runners or runners and the intake manifold would be the best. A few have suggested headers. If headers are the choice, can I install them myself?

 

I think you should start with all of the tune up stuff (cap, rotor, plugs, and wires)first, and do the exhaust (headers and cat-back) later.

 

IMO you should hold off on the runners and/or a base, You wouldn't realy need them unless your running a bigger cam or you've got some head work done.
I think the headers would be more worth your while.

 

The car had all the mods I posted when I bought it. I put the K&Ns in it, changed the oil, tranny fluid and gear oil with synthetics. I replaced all the sensors (O2, coolant, IAC, TPS, EGR...etc) last week...

 

I heard the runners and base plate can make 20 or more ponies on a stock engine. Just the SLP runners made 11 more on an 87 305 in an article I saw in Pontiac HP Mag...

 

Turbo charger yay!


Cheaper stuff:

K&N
Exhaust
Headers

Those are the tasty mods.

 

ET streets. You can now hook up.

 

Bolt on relocation braket (dont see a need for weld on but they cost less) 100.00 bolt on, 65.00 weld on

TB bypass (free)

Plemum porting with an air foil 25.00

shift kit 100.00 trans go

prom bruning equipment 200-400

 

I would suggest good rubber. Hookin up really helps the 60 foots.
But I'm sure you knew that.

MT E/t's
BFG Dr's

 

Good tires are good yes, but, having an auto trans, he can't launch as well without a stall, and with the somewhat non-existent top end of the TPI, traction only gets you so far. #2, if you buy the SLP runners/base, you are wasting your money. Why pay $400 for this, when you can buy a HSR or an LT1 intake for $500, and have something to work with later on for bigger mods.(i.e. cam, heads, etc.) I'm going to go with the headers/exhaust. My '88 went from 15.0 to 14.6 with $100 inch and half primary Flowtech headers and deleted air boxes. Just my opinion.

 

hey bowtie..

what headers dfid you put on? how much did they cost ya?
i have almost the same car....jus can't find a decent priced set of headers.

thnx.

 

prOject-IrOc: They were Flowtech headers, basically made by Holley, but, they have their own name. I bought them at Autozone for $99.94 with tax. They were 1 1/2 primary shorties, with no smog bs. Deleted all smog, deleted air boxes, and cleaned out the cat, went 14.60 with 2.12 60ft. and 2.77 gears. As far as I'm concerned, best bang for the buck I ever put on that car. Considering I spent $100 for .4 in the 1/4. Motor from my '88 R.I.P(March '02). What gears are you running? I think my '89 may be closer to your setup than my '88 was. Check my sig.

 

hey,
stock it has the 3.23 gears.

how hard were the headers to put on?
$100 bucks!?! from autozone?

i definately have an extra 100 bucks laying around
thanx man.

 

No problem. As for the headers, that depends. Have you ever worked on one of these cars before? If not, it will prob take you a while. When I installed mine, I had never even seen under the hood of one of these cars. With all smog delete, installing headers for stock manifolds, and gutting cat it took me and a friend 11 hours. Sounds like a long time, but, it's worth it.

 

ive done quite a bit of work to my car. ive learned alot about it through the years. i just wasn't sure if the motor had to be pulled or not.

we just threw a header on my friends 89 accord last saturday. if we would have had the right tool, it probably would have took only a couple hours. but there was one nut on the manifold that could not be reached with any common wrench, and we had to take off the motor mounts and jack the motor up as high as possible to get to it.

thanx alot

 

You don't have to pull the motor to get them in.

 

:rockon:

hey thanx again dood.

 

hey does anyone know the part no. for the shorter belt when you do the smog delete???? i plan to do one in a couple weeks myself.

 

Don't you want 1 5/8 headers for better flow? I am getting ready to get some for my 350, and I thought that the bigger they are, the better.....

 

1 3/4 are bigger primaries than 1 5/8

 

I know that, I am talking about the 1 1/2" headers

 

There is really no single "best" bolt on, they all work together to give the best results.

 

1 5/8 are better than 1 1/2, but, I only paid $100 for mine, you will surely pay more than that for 1 5/8. He wanted cheapest around, well those are it.

 

I don't know about that, man. If you check summit, I think that they have 1 5/8 for about 90 bucks or so in either flowtech or summit brand headers

 

Remember. you get what you pay for, especially when it comes to car parts. For cheaper headers expect fitment problems, clearance issues and short life expectancy. First and formost, don't use the gaskets that come with the cheaper headers, spring for a high quality gasket first time out.

 

Gears and headers are the two best bang for the buck mods.

I think hedman makes the best cheap headers, a hundred bucks for the 1 5/8" headers, and another hundred for the matching Y pipe. Toss a 3" cat on and a cutout, and you have a great exhuast for around 400 bucks, even including the change to have a shop weld it up to your catback.