IŽve installed the following in my Trans Am -88:
- HSR with AFPR (stock TB)
- 991-heads from a -69 (cant find any numbers on these)
- Bullet Racing BossHoss Special cam (dur@050 220/225, lift 510/525)
- Ford Racing injectors (24lbs)
- Wells MAF
- MSD 6AL
- MSD ProBillet 85551 distr.
- Edelbrock TES headers
- Race Catalyst

TH700:
- TCI Streetfighter kit
- Heavy Duty sungear shell
- TransGo shiftkit with even harder springs
still using stock converter.

The best time IŽve had is 9,374s/75.7mph. IŽm not that happy with those numbers , BUT, it was my first race ever (ran 9 laps). Also had problems with the grip on 1st and 2nd gear with my BF dragradials (think I had to much pressure in the tires).

Should I go with another cam for this setup? I donŽt have any money to go supercharged so I appreciate every other suggestion.

Best regards from Sweden
/Andreas

 

Can you afford aftermarket heads?


I'd look at taking care of your suspension, getting it to hook is important no matter WHAT engine it is.

 

What's your tune like?

Has it seen a dyno yet?

 

What suspension are you running? What gears are you running?

 

At the moment, I canŽt afford that much either, only about $500. The heads are supposed to be milled and ported, but IŽm not sure about that. I bought the heads from Zigouras Speed & Marine in Massachussets, and they said it to be:
- Stainless Steel High-Flow Valves
- High Performance Springs (0,55")
- Comp Cams Heavy Duty Racing Spring Retainers
- Comp Cams Heavy Duty Valve Locks
- Comp Cams Valve seals
- 3-Angle Valve Job
- milled
- Stage 2/3 Portwork
- Intake 1.94

A friend of mine is helping me with the chip.

I was going to check at Rototest, but they where not able to test the car. WeŽll see when I can test it.

 

At the moment IŽm still using the stock WS6 suspension. ItŽs in great condition but I know thereŽs heck alot better. IŽve got stock 3.27 limited slip.

255/50/16 BF Goodrich Comp TA dragradials.

 

I'm betting it's your tune.


Drop the $400 and get a day of dyno time.

 

When You say my tune, exactly what do You mean? My chip, the fuelpressure, the air-flow? Or the whole setup?

 

Feeding your combo what it wants/needs


Timing, fuel delivery, including the amount and the pressure for atomization, tuning your suspension even, all the way down to tire pressure

There are endless "Free" variables to play with that can easily get a car .5 quicker ETs with enoug leg work, and even MORE if your current tune is horrible.

 

By the way, IŽm running lean at idle and start of throttle, but excelent all the way up to 6.500rpm

 

The lean condition to begin with can create extra heat in your combustion chamber giving you less spark tollerance, its a possibility even correcting that would allow you to run MORE timing before detonation, which can be a *possible* gain right there.


all part of "tune"

 

What would be Your best advice? This is the first time IŽve dug this deep in a car. IŽm surprised I managed to complete the car in 3 weeks (broke down the engine completly and replaced every bolt and bearings and stuff) The engine is also broken in with mild driving about 745 miles.

 

The timing is 10deg (standard is 8?) I was told this should be a good timing for my setup.

 

There is more to timing than just the base timing, there's an entire curve to work with, if you dont or aren't interested in prom tuning, then base timing is about all there is to play with, but one things for sure lean is lean and detonation is detonation, I dont know if you've picked any up or not but you could be getting spark knock that richening up the lean points could cure or help.

 

I monitor 2 knocks when turning the ignition, but no more when running.

I donŽt have the equipment to burn custom chip, but a friend of mine do, and he has helped alot of persons to start burning own. We are trying out two different types of proms right now.

He use his stock curve and has changed the injector constant to 25,83. I donŽt think he has changed any other things yet.

EDIT: Sometimes, when IŽm in idle and hit the gas, thereŽs some sort of detonation, but no strange when monitoring???

 

i say it's the stock converter. you need at least 2100 like i have been using. i'm at 8.7's using the stock chip.

 

Hi Lunkan!

I cant remenber if you have a scan tool or not?

Do a run and scan the car at the same time and then contact me, I can get a look at the data......

Also do a scan at idle......

/N.

 

Hi Niklas!
I have a Auto Xray that I check with all the time, but Carl used his laptop which was much more easy to read. IŽve just got myself a laptop to check with in the future.

IŽll do a scan in the evening, and contact You later.

/Andreas

 

I haveŽnt had time to do the scan yet (I just assembled the interface for the laptop). How to now where to make the changes later? HereŽs the recent bin IŽm using, so if anyone could take a check at it, and maybe You could recommend some data to change?

http://hem.bredband.net/b123938/anyj_ati5_2583.bin

/Andreas

 

Its impossible to recommend any big changes id you dont have any scans.....

All I can see (without scan results) are some minor mods.

-ESC recovery rate.
-IAC learning temp

Does the engine rev. up when you start it? you could do some changes there too.......

/N.

 

My guess is the stock convertor and the 3.27 gears are not helping. The HSR is an upper RPM intake. You are losing time at the start, not the top end...

Look closley at getting a new convertor with a 3000+ stall, then new gears 3.73+. Especially if you run the 1/8 mile and you are using a 700R4...Just my opinion

 

He already has traction problems

Why make them worse to help his times?

 

Well that's just it..... With those times he should have NO traction problems with the drag radials if they are prepped right.

In other words be sure to do a decent burnout with them and drop the pressure down to about 18 psi (at the strip only - probably gotta play with this some but that is a start) and see how it gets out of the hole. I have seen numerous F-bodies (third and fourth gens) pull sub 2 second 60' times while running 13s and even low 14s with BFG DRs.

The stall is also holding you up quite a bit..... And of course there is the whole tuning thing . But you have time left in tuning your suspension and drivetrain.

 

I made a scan today using WinALDL. I donŽt know what to read from this, so if someone who knows could check them IŽd be more than happy.

Here are the logfiles, they are in Excel format and zipped (filesize=82kb):
http://hem.bredband.net/b123938/logs.zip

 

Today, I took my car to the strip for the first time with new converter. I wasnŽt that pleased with the times. My best lap was the first!?! 9.325@75.125 / 14.657@91.597. DidnŽt get the 60Žs below 2.114

WhatŽs been done since last is:
- B&M TorkMaster 2400
- B&M Console Mega Shifter
- Played around with the chip

The car wonŽt pull enough on 3rd gear and donŽt rev more than 5.700rpm. Shifting is around 5.500.

I also get alot of exhaust detonation when itŽs warm, that I canŽt get rid of. It comes whatever chip and FP IŽm using.

WeŽve changed lots of constants in the chip (timing, basetiming value, MAF-table, inj.constant etc.), but I canŽt feel any change. Not even the ARAP feels any diffrent.

I really need some good advice. IŽm getting really frustrated here. ThereŽs no problem with traction, since IŽve lowered the tire-pressure.

 

350? stock or rebuilt? head chamber size? compression ratio?

 

Those heads are part of your problem. I had those same heads on a 400sbc I bought. 1.94/1.5 valves, but a 76cc chamber. Too much for you application. You would be better off with stock 083 heads from a L98 TPI. Port/ploish some bowl work and gasket match should show some better #'s

 

I rebuilt it during the winter. All new seals, bearings, rings and stuff. The engine turned out to have been newly rebuilt by last owner (checked that as the engine looked so fresh when I opened it) so I use the stock crank and pistons.

As for numbers, Cruzin Kaz had more than I new. I bought the from a company in Massachussets (everyting from their invoce is higher up in the topic)

Should I really look for new set of heads? These arenŽt good for me? I told the company what I was planning. The HSR was ordered to my uncle (thatŽs another story to save some money, the Swedish customs is crazy) who sent it over to them. So they new exactly everything about my engine, cam and intake.

Now IŽm getting really pissed off

 

.

 

Is there any possibility to mill down the heads even more? Or are the 991 so louse castings? I donŽt have the money to buy new heads for quite some time.