1989 Formula 350 stalling, not running well
1989 Formula 350 stalling, not running well
I am looking to buy an older Fbody(just sold my 1998 LS1) for a project and to have something. I found a black 1989 Formula 350 w/fair body, t-tops and L89 350v8. Guy says he's orig owner with 71 or 72k miles. Problem is motor stalls or doesn't run well. I am somewhat mechanically savvy, however; I don't know jack about these years of cars and what could be the problem. I assume it's a sensor, or ignition component or maybe even problematic injectors.
any thoughts to help me out?
thanks
any thoughts to help me out?
thanks
i appreciate help guys
I haven't looked at car yet so I am trying to troubleshoot off of what this guy tells me and to be honest he isn't too car literate
. Anyway, it's prolly between this car and an 1989 iroc w/ 350 and 118k miles w/rebuilt tranny w/racing guts per owner. I kinda prefer the iroc look and I want to build a motor to put in a car and paint it canary yellow anyway so I might get the iroc if I like it. But this formula could be had cheaply and it might be an uber easy fix 
when I jumper the connector what do I use, just some wire to loop the two imputs?
thanks
I haven't looked at car yet so I am trying to troubleshoot off of what this guy tells me and to be honest he isn't too car literate
. Anyway, it's prolly between this car and an 1989 iroc w/ 350 and 118k miles w/rebuilt tranny w/racing guts per owner. I kinda prefer the iroc look and I want to build a motor to put in a car and paint it canary yellow anyway so I might get the iroc if I like it. But this formula could be had cheaply and it might be an uber easy fix 
when I jumper the connector what do I use, just some wire to loop the two imputs?
thanks
yeah, a wire is good, or a paper clip will also work. to get the codes jump it, and turn the key to run, but don't start the engine.
it's kinda like morse code, one blink = 1, then pause, then two =2, then long pause == code 12 (checkout). code 12 will flash 3x, then real codes start. 12 just means the code output works right.
but also try running the car jumped (diagnostic mode)
it's kinda like morse code, one blink = 1, then pause, then two =2, then long pause == code 12 (checkout). code 12 will flash 3x, then real codes start. 12 just means the code output works right.
but also try running the car jumped (diagnostic mode)
Originally posted by patrickm00
and see if it runs ok if you jump the A and B terminals on the ALDL diagnostic connector under the dash on the right. A and B should be the top two right pins.
and see if it runs ok if you jump the A and B terminals on the ALDL diagnostic connector under the dash on the right. A and B should be the top two right pins.
thanks
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Once you jump the A and B terminals, turn the key to the run position but DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR. Doing so could damage the ECM (computer). Once your key is in the run position and the jumper wire in place, the service engine soon (SES) light will begin to blink. It will blink a numeric code that will help you diagnose different problems the computer may have recorded. Take a look at the technical section of this site and you will find out everything you need to know.
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theshackle
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Mar 5, 2017 06:37 PM




