I just received my HSR from http://www.thunderracing.com yesterday and it looks like a great piece. Including shipping, it cost just under $500 to get the intake and the AFPR fuel rail kit. 2 things captured my attention, however:

1. I'm glad I ordered the AFPR fuel rail kit , because there is no way I was going to get the TPI style AFPR to bolt up - both regulators are completely different (this may have been mentioned before - if it has, then I must have missed this fact somewhere in the 100s of threads I read regarding the HSR).

2. Holy Crap! I didn't think this manifold would be as beefy as it really is in person (with the exception being the material around where the ports mate to the heads). The ports look like they would build great velocity from how they funnel from the D-port at top to the smaller head ports at the bottom. Photos don't do this thing justice. Its gonna look like a Citadel of Power thrusting itself out of the engine valley :hail: . UPS marked the box it came in as 29 lbs, and I think only about 1 pound of weight was the box and packing. All in all, I am highly impressed. I can't wait to get this **** on

On a side note, I encourage everyone to support those who support us (this board). If you are thinking about buying the HSR, please buy from Thunder Racing. They gave me great customer support and they have very competitive pricing. As long as they are a sponser of this board, I will continue to be a patron of their products

Glad to hear it... everyone I know with HSR has been very happy with it. I've also had great experiences with thunder racing.

Congrats on the HSR, man! Pictures really don't do that thing justice, because I'm sure that I had the same reaction as you when I first saw it.

Now just imagine how much easier it's gonna be to change intake manifold gaskets....

I'd like to say that I would like to support Thunder Racing.. but I've been getting my parts for a lot cheaper than TR.

I didn't find a better price from any other company I felt comfortable with *shrug*

BTW, my "in the works" sig is close to being my current sig

If I can *ever* get my car to run right with my current combo, I'd love to step up to a stealth ram & maybe some better heads.

I talked to my engine builder after I gave him a chance to look the intake over, and he said I would have no problems making over 500 hp N/A between the HSR, my Pro Topline Aluminum Lightning heads (cost me $1150 assembled AND ported), a CC306 cam (230/244) and 9.7:1 compression - I'm really happy with the way things are starting to come together. With my current 150 NX system (along with a progressive nitrous controller and good fuel system), my target weight of 3200 lbs, and the proper tranny/rear/suspension setup, Don (my engine builder and a racing engine builder for 25 years) said I should be in the 10s easily - more than I had hoped for with what little $$$ I have into the setup.

now go here and get the fuel line kit. that way you don't have to cut your existing lines. screws right to the rubber lines. it's what i'm using. should have mine on in two weeks.

http://www.supersportperformance.com...amfittings.htm

It seems a bit pricey, but it may be worth it...

Did I understand correctly that you ordered your HSR fuel line kit from Supersport Performance? Are you happy so far with their service? I'm very cautious when it comes to dealing with companies over the internet. As a matter of fact, I almost did not receive my NX Gen-X2 kit from a now defunct company until I posted the names and locations of the owners of the company on the camaroz28 boards (I almost lost $300 ). Anyway, coming 'round to my point: Can I trust them? I'm sure I can - I would just like a little reassurance, thats all.

Peace
Kyle

UPDATE:

I had a local speed shop fab up the braided stainless line and fittings for my HSR. Here's the parts list:

1 -6AN to 14mmx1.5 Male (to adapt regulator to 150*)........................................$6.95
1 -6AN to 16mmx1.5 Female (to adapt to stock fuel line)......................................$6.95
1 -6AN to 14mmx1.5 Female (to adapt to stock return line)...................................$6.95
2 -6AN ST Auto Fit........................................................................................$6.95
6 ft -6AN braided stainless line........................................................................$29.40
1 -6AN 120* fitting (I'm thinking I should have gone with a tight radius 180*)..........$14.95
1 -6AN 90* fitting.........................................................................................$14.95
1 -6AN O-Ring to -6AN (to adapt rail to 90*)......................................................$5.00
TAX............................................................................................................$5.00
TOTAL...........................................................................................................$103.45

Here are 2 attached photos (I'm following the rules ) of a mocked up HSR with the braided fuel lines attached. Notice how I reversed the position of the adjustable regulator to point outwards for easy adjustment:

1

2

It seems as if the 120* fitting will give me enough distributor clearance. What do you guys think? Perhaps I'll just have the end redone with a 180* and go directly under the regulator and fuel rail.

I also noticed that although the 2 center bolt holes on either side are each drilled twice, the seat for both holes is at the same angle (for early style heads) Is this a problem? Will I need to get angled shims for a proper seat, or should I just grind a seat out myself and use a regular intake washer? This is confusing

Thanks for your help!
Kyle

I ran my regulator just like you did, except I used a 45* fitting and it WILL clear the distributor so you should be fine with the 120* or 180* fitting. See this thread for pictures... https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=169311

EDIT: I noticed you're not using the supplied 90* fitting for the regulator. I'm pretty sure you need to use that fitting for maximum clearance. I used that 90* fitting and have plenty of clearance.

As for the intake holes, I believe you're supposed to use wedges if using newer style heads (73* angle). I'm using early style AFRs(90* angle) so this wasn't an issue for me. Maybe someone can chime in with the part number for those wedges.

I went with the 180 degree one with no clearance problems.

MelloYello
altho the differance is very small, youll have more consitstant fuel pressure and flow if you move the fuel feed from the rear of the drivers side fuel rail to the rear of the pass side fuel rail.(the way you have it now most fuel enters about 1" from the Fuel Pressure Regulator where it can exit , this tends to allow a pressure drop at the far injectors under full throttle (#2,4,6 & 8 ) feeding the fuel in on the pass rear rail tends to maintain full pressure along the length of BOTH FUEL RAILS
youll have much more distributor clearance if you spin that fuel pressure regulator around 180 degrees,so the fuel return exits toward the valve cover
yes it makes the regulator adjustment more difficult with the dist. in place but its still do-able with a 1/4" drive and a swivel plus two 12" extensiona and a screw driver tip, since youll only be adjusting the fuel pressure very rarely thats the better arangement

Good call Grumpy, I'm not sure it would even work the way he has it in the picture.

I think I'll just move the cap to the drivers side rail, using the supplied 90* brass fitting on the passenger rail and hooking up a straight -6AN line to that fitting, running the passenger line along the back of the plenum. For the regulator return feed, I'll just replace the 120* with a tight radius 180* and run the line underneath the regulator and rails. I'll have plenty of clearance that way. Thanks for the help with the feed/return lines, grumpy. And thanks to all for your help.

Moving on to the next problem, does anyone have a URL/part number for the angled shims I will need?

Thanks again
Kyle