ok i have the chance in buying an 85 IROC with a 85 Corvette 350TPI. i was wondering if this engine is a 4 bolt mains? is this year for vette the LT1 engine model?

i need a quick response, as i want a 350TPI in an IROC that is a 4bolt mains

thanks

 

i believe the only difference was that the corvette had different heads for an extra 20 or so HP

 

well, what is the easiest way to tell if an engine is a 4 bolt or 2 bolt mains?

 

as a matter of fact i just found that out...you remove the oil pan and look at how many bolts is going to the crank.

now, would i need a new block if i wanted to change my 2bolt to a 4 bolt?

 

A 2 bolt main is good to 400 horse. 4 bolt is good to 450 horse.
The best bet is to go 2 bolt with splayed mains. It is the strongest way to go. Jegs sells the kit you have to drill at a 22 degree angle and tap. They are usually good to 700 horse.

 

can there be splayed mains in a 4 bolt? my project is to get the car running a max of 20 PSI from a custom Procharger set up?

 

There are no splayed-cap small blocks from the factory. That's purely an aftermarket thing, and you need to start with a 2-bolt block to do it.

There's nothing overly special about an 85 motor. It's got the old-style 2 piece rear main seal, and does not have provisions for a roller cam. Doing a roller cam retrofit will be more expensive than just finding a roller block and starting with that.

As for the differences in TPI from the 85 f-body to the 85 Vette, there were a lot. The f-body was only available with a 305, so the injectors were smaller. Computer chip was different, ESC and knock sensor were different, and one thing that a lot of people don't know is that the fuel pressure was different too. The 85 vette was the ONLY TPI car to run 35lbs of pressure. All other TPI cars, including the 85 305, ran 43lbs of pressure.

But if you expect to run 20 psi and have the motor survive, you can forget about all that crap and go cough up the dough for a Merlin block. While you're at it, plan on a forged or billet crank, H-beam rods, and every single other super-expensive, ultra strong piece of equipment you can find. Then spend just as much on a transmission that can handle the power, and a rear end that won't grenade. I hope you have a high credit limit on your Visa.

 

Hmm, or just get a buick 3.8 T. My Brother is running 22lbs of Boost in his Turbo trans am with out all of that. Just got to make sure you intercool ot and keep a close eye on knock. You should be fine as long as you prep the engine corectly.

 

Out of curiosity, how much horsepower is your brother making with 22lbs of boost? Now consider that a V8 is going to make about 20% more power with all other considerations being equal. That's a TON of horsepower, and requires strong parts.

Of course, there's more to boost than meets the eye too. On a restrictive POS of a motor, you're going to show a lot more boost than the same turbo setup on a more efficient motor. Plus, a small stock style turbo with 22lbs of boost is a lot different than a better aftermarket turbo making the same boost.

 

umm.... ahh.. Can someone tell me #1 where did boost come into this convo? Also, as jim said, 350's never cam in fbodies untill 87. All that jim said is right, and i didnt know that about the vettes? humm. Also, the fuel lines and egr would be totaly different then on a 305 in a fbody.
It is NOT the LT1, they came out in 92 if vettes and the in 93 in fbodies.
The block has 2 bolt mains with 2pc rear seal(boo) and is not a roller block. the 85 vette motor didnt have that much power 220 or something along thoes lines. A 87 or up 350 fbody would put out more.

 

whoops. Forgot about the fuel lines and egr.

anyway, I got involved in the boost discussion just because it seems that his parts selection so far for his extremely optimstic project seems to be a bit unrealistic.

 

Im not doubting this one bit, just take a cruise of the internet running these engines and doing it on stock parts. Im talking these cars are doing 10s on stock parts and have been doing it for years on the same parts. Buick makes a solid motor is all i have to say. Sorry for getting off the subject.

 

im trying to do everything possible to keep the 350 TPI but i wanna run 700 RWHP and a matchable amount of torque any way with out using NOS.

my options are 406 blower motoer with dual 4's which will suck gas like nothing

or a MPFI, TPI, some sort of fuel injected 383 stroker which i do not know anyone professional that can build this engine to support up to 20 PSI. does anyone know of any proffessional engine builder that can do this?

i am goin to post this same thing in another post cause this doesnt seem like the right place for a question like this.

i have a good budget for this so money is not a problem right now although i would like not to spend all my money.

 

Prepare to spend $15K to get the motor to 700rwhp without breaking. Tranny will be another $1800+.

Best thing to do is buy a bare block and have it machined then get the rest of the parts that work together to make max power.

If you wanna get really creative, get a 93.5-98 Supra 2JZ-GTE motor and slap a big single turbo and upgraded fuel system and you will get 700rwhp without any problems on the stock block.
Total cost for the engine setup would be around $12K.

 

LMFAO, looking for 700RWHP and being concerned about using too much fuel.

 

Zeph... stop with the friggin ideas... jesus... if you want a supra, get a supra!! hehehe j/k

 

Supra's cost too much to buy whole. Motor though can be had for $3K though. I am almost as knowledgable about the Supra drivetrain as I am with the f-body ones. A Supra motor is going into one of my cars in 2004 or 2005.

 

what happend to the dreams of the LT5 man? remember, if you ever get that engine.. i will make the trip and help you put it in.

 

That is still going to happen if I get the money. I'll let you know when it comes so you can give me a hand.

 

Ooops, wrong topic

 

ill be there... ill even bring a case(s) of beer, cause ill be lof legal age by the time that happens muahaha! hehe just send me the PM!

 

Not to be an ***, but you originally asked how to tell if the block was a 2-bolt or 4-bolt block, yet you plan on building a 700hp engine w/ a power adder......

 

you can get a 2 bolt and buy splayed caps conversion. That will hold up pretty strong. Search for Willie's conversion on his 305.

 

AND, a different aftermarket rear-end, major suspension work and brake work as well. A roll-cage will probably be in order as well.

The money just keeps flowing into a bottomless pit.

 

um i really hope you got lotsa money.just outa curiosity have you ever driven a car with anything this powerful?i can understand wanting to go fast and im not trying to bash you but thats alot if you havent ripped around in something close to that.on that note if yor ging to build it do it right spend the money so it dont fly apart.start adding stuff up figure out what its going to need to make that kinda power.oh yeah then on to the rest.trans,rear car itself.its not going to be cheap.