Superram
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 65
From: NC
Car: 1987 Iroc
Engine: 357 Single plane and a Ysi vortech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.50 9"
Superram dyno numbers
I am getting the SR runners/plenum to go on my Edelbrock base. Will it work with my large cap distributor and my cam is a 503 comp cam Xtreme grind. 224/230'' duration with 503/510''. Just dynoed 295.8 hp and and 389. tq although the reading only started at 3800. I know it had more tq below that.
Any new estimates. Things I should watch for? I've read all the SR nightmares
I did search
Thanks
Chris
Any new estimates. Things I should watch for? I've read all the SR nightmares
I did search
Thanks
Chris
Last edited by NufNuffZ28; Oct 1, 2003 at 11:44 AM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Car: Damn
Engine: This
Transmission: New Stuff
You should be ok with the large cap dist. there are some vac ports on the back of the plenum that may be in the way and you might have to move them, but besides that I remember having at least 1.5" all around my small cap dist.
That cam sounds decent for a SR, they tend to like single pattern, but 224 is a good intake duration. might try to get that lift up though. SR does well with lower dur high lift cams with aggressive ramps.
Just be carefull not to drop anything into the intake ports if you try to screw the plenum bolts in from the top. It will be lengthy the first time you do it, then it gets easier. Don't tighten anything down untill it is all loosely bolted together, then work from the bottom up. The lid gasket leaks half the time, so a bead of silicone there helps alot. once its all together check your throttle, make sure it opens all the way, I had to space out the TB on mine to achieve full open. watch the wiper motor clearance. that's all I can think of now. just take your time, good luck.
That cam sounds decent for a SR, they tend to like single pattern, but 224 is a good intake duration. might try to get that lift up though. SR does well with lower dur high lift cams with aggressive ramps.
Just be carefull not to drop anything into the intake ports if you try to screw the plenum bolts in from the top. It will be lengthy the first time you do it, then it gets easier. Don't tighten anything down untill it is all loosely bolted together, then work from the bottom up. The lid gasket leaks half the time, so a bead of silicone there helps alot. once its all together check your throttle, make sure it opens all the way, I had to space out the TB on mine to achieve full open. watch the wiper motor clearance. that's all I can think of now. just take your time, good luck.
Here's how I'm doing my SR:
Tap & install helicoils in the four inner holes on the top runner plates where the plenum mounts. Drill out the matching four holes in the plenum for clearance on the screws (1/4-20 I think). This will allow installation of these four screws from the top, all the remaining perimeter screws will install from beneath as designed. Use button head screws here for minimal air flow disruption & Loctite to keep them from vibrating loose. If you are really **** about screws coming loose you could use longer screws so that they protrude well below the runner plates, index them off the car (use the gaskets for the correct installation depth), and mark & drill small holes radially thru the threads to insert wire locks in after installation - but I personally am not going to that extreme. Chase the screw threads afterwards if you do this.
Use socket head screws at the the runner-to-intake points, and a long ball-end allen wrench to allow screw engagement/tightening from various angles. I have a wrench that came with my SLP runners, but you can buy a similar allen wrench with a T-handle or screwdriver-type handle on it and cut the handle off if it's in the way. This will hopefully let me work around the rockers.
RTV & thread sealer everywhere to avoid leaks. I'll probably tape up or cover the intake/runner/plenum holes at various stages of the installation to avoid dropping anything in them.
Tap & install helicoils in the four inner holes on the top runner plates where the plenum mounts. Drill out the matching four holes in the plenum for clearance on the screws (1/4-20 I think). This will allow installation of these four screws from the top, all the remaining perimeter screws will install from beneath as designed. Use button head screws here for minimal air flow disruption & Loctite to keep them from vibrating loose. If you are really **** about screws coming loose you could use longer screws so that they protrude well below the runner plates, index them off the car (use the gaskets for the correct installation depth), and mark & drill small holes radially thru the threads to insert wire locks in after installation - but I personally am not going to that extreme. Chase the screw threads afterwards if you do this.
Use socket head screws at the the runner-to-intake points, and a long ball-end allen wrench to allow screw engagement/tightening from various angles. I have a wrench that came with my SLP runners, but you can buy a similar allen wrench with a T-handle or screwdriver-type handle on it and cut the handle off if it's in the way. This will hopefully let me work around the rockers.
RTV & thread sealer everywhere to avoid leaks. I'll probably tape up or cover the intake/runner/plenum holes at various stages of the installation to avoid dropping anything in them.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 65
From: NC
Car: 1987 Iroc
Engine: 357 Single plane and a Ysi vortech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.50 9"
Thanks guys. I am looking forward to the results/not the installation. Tall valvecovers OK with this intake?
chris
chris
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