my engine is leaking coolant around the bolts next to the thermostat housing as well as between the intake and heads. is there anything i need to know about fixing this? also is there anything else i should replace while it is apart. it has 63k miles and everything is original. i will be replacing all the hoses as well.

 

I'd get the felpro "Upper TPI Gasket Kit" and 8 additional injector O-rings (kit only comes with 8) as well as the 2 fuel line Orings and a "TB Gasket Kit" and an EGR gasket (don't recall exactly, but I don't think the FelPro kit comes withy the EGR gasket).

When it's apart, clean the EGR passages and EGR also.

You'll want to use the liquid Teflon sealer on the inatke to head bolts to stop the leaking, also pick up a tube of black RTV, the kit doesn't have enough (IMO) to do the China Walls on the intake.

This is the best time to send the injectors out for cleaning and matching, if you do, then most likely they'll come back with new o-rings, so need need to purchase additional ones, use some lube (I use WD40) on the Orings when installing the injectors. Get a GOOD Torx bit to eliminate rounding the intake heads, etc and elimiate breaking the cheapo asian tool.

Also a good time to do some plenum porting and intake porting, runner matching, if you so desire.

This will also be the easiest time to replace the heater hoses that run from the core to the metal lines, they're difficult to get to with the intake on, much easier with it off...you'll see what I mean.

Go to NAPA, and get the pre-formed hoses/lines, makes a cleaner job.

 

Good advice. Only thing I might add is replacing the thermostat while the system is open.
Also, you might want to mark the dist and note which way the rotor is pointing.

 

8Mike9 has some great advice above.

In order to prevent future coolant leaks between the intake and heads, I smear a light coating of RTV around the coolant passages on both sides of the head/intake gaskets. This will also keep the gaskets in place.

For the front and rear walls (china walls), I use the cork gaskets but also some RTV. Make sure that you get the corners filled in amply. You will need to clean the top surface of the china walls to squeeky clean before appling the cork gaskets and the RTV.

When you have everything prepped, all gaskets in place, and RTV stuff in place, its time to lower the intake manifold into place. You should be very carefull to drop the intake manifold straight down and squeez out RTV as the intake is lowered onto the heads.

I think the torque on the intake bolts is 30 to 35 ft-lbf.

 

I did much of the same as above, however, I used the "Indian Head" gasket shellac made by Permatex. Cheap, and I've NEVER had a gasket leak when I used it. You can get it at most auto parst stores.

 

i just wanted to make sure this is the right part. it is called the felpro intake manifold gasket set.

 

yes that is the right set. the upper and lower felpro set.

 

i think there is an order you are suposed to torque the intake bolts down in order to rock the manifold snugly into place and get a good seal. at least that what my repair manual said. if nobody else knows i can dig it up for ya.

 

one thing I haven't heard mentioned yet is :

after you get it back together, run it for a bit to get it nice and warm then change the oil and filter! You _will_ get coolant into the oil doing this job.

 

i need to get a decent repair manual. what would be the best one to get?

i guess that would be a good time to change the oil, then.

 

Re: Intake patern..for the TPI, GM has a bit of a different idea on the tq'ing sequence..but generally start from the inside and work out. Haynes/Chiltons should be good enough for this. Helms is the best, but will cost a good C-note to you.

About the coolant...do this..

After draining the radiator...

Remove the ThrottleBody
Remove the Tstat housing and tstat.
Stick you wet/dry shop vac in the hole and suck all the coolant out. Let it set for a few seconds, and suck more out..after two or three times, you'll have all the coolant out of the passages and when you pull the intake, you'll have very minimal dampness.

Regarding the gasket set, that doesn't look lke the "full" Upper Intake set...IIRC, I got mine at Kragen Auto for 24 or 26 bucks, it had 0-rings and distributor gasket and a few other items as well, other than what you're showing. What you have there will work fine, assuming you pull the intake without pulling the fuel rails, etc. or touching the EGR valve.

You'll still want to get the two o-rings for the fuel input and return lines...kinda a weird setup...flared fitting with an o-ring.