HSR Glitches
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From: ready room
Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
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HSR Glitches
I am installing my HSR manifold and have run into a few small issues. One is the oil sending unit piece that bolts into the block will not fit with the manifold. I have to unscrew it to make it fit but I dont think the threads will be long enough to fit it back on. Does anyone know where I can get another piece like the one I have but with longer threads? I really dont want to "shave" either piece. SEE PIC BELOW... Also, my alternator bracket will not attach to this manifold either. Anyone have suggestions as to which bracket will attach? I have an 85' Z28. I assume a different bracket from a different year will fit but which one? Then finally, there are two threaded openings on the front left of the manifold if you stand facing the front of the car. What are they for? I assume one is for a sensor? Thanks for all your help.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Hartland MI
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
There should be a threaded hole with a hex plug in it just above your oil filter on the driver side of the block, you should be able to use that instead.
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From: Montgomery, AL
Car: 1985 Trans Am
use a cheap hardware store turnbuckle as your upper alternator bracket, and use the stock lower stuff. The turnbuckle (5/16 i think) will attatch to the front of the water pump.
Home Depot has a wide variety of brass fittings that can be used to adapt the oil pressure sending unit, as a matter of fact I am running some of those fittings on my car.
Cant offer any advice on the alternator.
Cant offer any advice on the alternator.
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Thanks for all the advice. Now I know what the holes in front are for, DUH!... I also got a brass fitting to make that piece taller. My only question left is the bracket. My alternator bracket is one piece. It attached to the water pump and the bottom of the TPI runner I had before. Now I need it to attach to the manifold or some other spot. I have attached a pic of my bracket.
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: orlando, fl usa
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
my alternator bracket is the same way. i haven't had any problems with the belt falling off or anything else. but, you can post this over at www.stealthram.com and see if anyone else has found a different bracket.
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From: ready room
Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
Originally posted by mrr23
my alternator bracket is the same way. i haven't had any problems with the belt falling off or anything else. but, you can post this over at www.stealthram.com and see if anyone else has found a different bracket.
my alternator bracket is the same way. i haven't had any problems with the belt falling off or anything else. but, you can post this over at www.stealthram.com and see if anyone else has found a different bracket.
I believe I have all the other necessary fittings to install everything else. Hopefully I wont have anymore issues. Oh yeah...I didnt get any instructions from Holley with my fuel rail kit. I will try 85transam406's bracket idea I think. What size piece is that?
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From: Montgomery, AL
Car: 1985 Trans Am
it's a 5/16 turnbuckle, it think it runs about 3 dollars after tax at most hardware stores (i.e. lowe's, ace, etc.) It makes it really easy to adjust the alt. belt, also.
I did mine as above before i even switched to the LT1 intake, I just thought it looked cleaner. Worked just as good as stock, never had any belt issues at 5900 RPMs. Belt tension stayed good for probably about a year or so, until i took the motor out this time.
I did mine as above before i even switched to the LT1 intake, I just thought it looked cleaner. Worked just as good as stock, never had any belt issues at 5900 RPMs. Belt tension stayed good for probably about a year or so, until i took the motor out this time.
Last edited by 85TransAm406; Jan 16, 2004 at 08:34 AM.
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From: Madison, WI
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 6.2
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 4.10
I'M USING MY ORIGINAL ALTERNATOR BRACKET, AND SO FAR I'M HAVING NO PROBLEMS WITH THE BELT. IT WORKS, BUT IT'S NOT THE NICEST LOOKING SETUP, LOL.
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From: Lower Salford, PA
Car: 1987 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.3L Victor EFI
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"/4.11 Trac-Lok
Got mine here, part# 215R, near the bottom right of the page.
http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/S.B.Long_Pump.htm
http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/S.B.Long_Pump.htm
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From: ready room
Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
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Originally posted by Ricktpi
Got mine here, part# 215R, near the bottom right of the page.
http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/S.B.Long_Pump.htm
Got mine here, part# 215R, near the bottom right of the page.
http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/S.B.Long_Pump.htm
some people have posted these issues on stealthram.com. I have put in three manifolds so far so I dont think leaks will be an issue. Keeping my fingers crossed.
gixxer9 I'M USING MY ORIGINAL ALTERNATOR BRACKET, AND SO FAR I'M HAVING NO PROBLEMS WITH THE BELT. IT WORKS, BUT IT'S NOT THE NICEST LOOKING SETUP, LOL.
Thanks gixxer for the info...thats why I need to find another bracket. Mine doesnt look right anymore and it has that back piece sticking out in no-mans land.
I am waiting for instructions from Holley for my fuel rails so I can install them. Today I connected my heater hose to the water pump with a short 5/8" nipple instead of using a 90 degree nipple on the top of the manifold. It looks good. Put the new Holley 58mm TB to the plenum. I'm almost there except for the rails and cutting the fuel lines and installing my new MSD 8366 distributor. Since I am not proficient at either one I am waiting for my mechanic to stop by and help me.
Last edited by CaptPicardsZ28; Jan 16, 2004 at 03:21 PM.
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
if you're using a turnbuckle, DO NOT get a alum one... they'll strip out the threads, even if they're fully threaded in.... the metal is just too soft for the stress....
i went thru a couple when i did somthing similar in high school... imagine keeping the alt to head pivot bolt in the same place, but flipping the alt upside down and low..... i did that and then used the turnbuckle to connect to a bolt hole on the waterpump.. looked trick, but it stripped out the turnbuckle twice, and i snapped the pivoit bolt in the head once before i rethought and redid the design. :lala:
i went thru a couple when i did somthing similar in high school... imagine keeping the alt to head pivot bolt in the same place, but flipping the alt upside down and low..... i did that and then used the turnbuckle to connect to a bolt hole on the waterpump.. looked trick, but it stripped out the turnbuckle twice, and i snapped the pivoit bolt in the head once before i rethought and redid the design. :lala:
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