I hope this isn't a question that gets asked to often. I lost my job last year so I've had to scrap my plans for a supercharged 355 in my old formula. So now with my new (low) income I need a new game plan. I'm looking for a cheap way to make atleast 400 HP. I was considering the holley stealth ram system, I would probably need the whole system since most of my TPI parts are long gone as well as all the wiring and sensors. Can a stealth ram induction system make that much power on a 355 block with L-98 heads ?
I've searched around online and I have been a little disappointed with the numbers I 've seen. It seems that most peoples cars are running between 13.6 and 12.3 with stealth rams. While I wouldn't be too upset with low 12's, I've seen stock TPI's do 13.6. Of course whatever I do I have to be able to stomp all my friends into the ground. unfortunately I 'll have some tough competition, an 88 TPI iroc (13.7sec 1/4), a 94 LT1 (13.9), an 03 LS1 (13.0), and above all a WRX that runs 12.5. I would really like to be in the mid to low 11's, so should I consider the stealth ram or would this be far easier and cheaper with a carb ?
The max I can spend for this engine is $4000 so I'd like to keep the stock crank,rods, and the heads if possible. ofcourse I'll be buying a new cam and lifters.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions

 

You're not gunna touch 11s on stock heads. But the stealthram is a good intake for the money, I would keep it in your build up.

 

Visit John Millican's site: www.lt1intake.com and you will see why I'm in the early stages of an intake swap. With some new heads, cam, and a better intake, you will be off to a good start on your horsepower quest. The LT1 conversion swap is a lot cheaper, so that is the biggest reason that I'm doing the swap. Also, it's fun. Horses cost money tho, so be ready to part with some, and remember that advertised hp gains tend to be more fiction than fact. Do some research before dropping a large amount of cash, and shop around.

 

so how fast can you go with L98 heads ? I would be willing to go after market
if it was necessary. Maybe someone could suggest a good set of heads ? iron or aluminum.

 

mid to hi 12s with modded stock heads.have gone 13.37 with a stock 5.7,91 z,slp runners,ported plenum,58mm,pulleys,ram air,2400 slp conv.,slp 1-3/4s and slp ex.perf.resource chip @H.R.P. SO with a cam,portwork,springs and your light weight formula i dont see a problem with mid to hi 12s..those times were back in 1994....

 

How is an LT1 intake swap any cheaper? By the time you buy the LT1 intake, buy the remote thermostat housing and rig it all up, you're looking at about the same costs (plus you know the stealth ram will fit with no issues)

I do wish I could install the LT1 intake though, but there are known issues with the WP sportsman II heads

Does anyone know if the intake will work with AFR's?

 

Juice it....Cheap....well under 1000...hel! I only have 3000 in my hole car.....

 

If I were you I would go with a carb setup. You said you don;t have alot of the TPI stuff left, and I assume that means you would have to buy computer and injectors and everything along with a new intake. If you go with a carb you'll have a lot of bucks left to address the heads, cam, and exhaust

 

you can build 380-400 hp with L98 heads with a 3 angle valve job, stock vavles, a bowl blend, pocket porting, extrude hone port the intake and exhaust ports, port match the intake, don't port match the exhaust port, otherwise you'll have issues with reversion. And polish the combustion chamber and exhaust port.

Run some hooker super competition long tube headers, with a good 2.5" dual setup, or 3.5" or larger cat back. Run a stealth ram, a good cam, and igntion and you'll be at your 380-400 horses.

 

Nick, don't forget there are LS1 guys running 11.5 @ 115 on the stock engines, it's all in suspension setup, tire, and a good converter.

LS1's are ~ 350 crank hp, and they redline at 6,000 rpm's.

A minram setup with a good cam would get you to 350-400 crank HP pretty easy. Buying a new TPI wiring harness and sensors would be the killer. Holley sells the kit for about $2000 to run the whole thing with an aftermarket computer, even includes the fuel pump. You could probably score a used wiring harness on eBay fairly cheap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2458614034
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2456802848

Better yet, get the Painless harness from Summit racing for $299. Actually doesn't make keeping the TPI look so bad. Not sure of a good head to use with the HSR, but you'd be okay with the stock heads unless you started getting crazy with power. Get them redone, valve job, maybe a mild porting, new valve springs, 1.6 roller rockers.....

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...57#largerimage

A carb setup would do it also. The vortec 'high-lift' heads are $739, complete, then you'd need a edelbrock vortec style intake, another $150, Edelbrock performer carb, $250 or so, a new distributor and a tank for a mechanical pump....

Just get a generic 350 rebuild, 30 over hyperutectic pistons, rods, nothing fancy, you'll have no problem pushing 400hp. Fairly good cam with .510" lift.

Combine that with a mild stall (2800 or 3200), some drag radials, and a more launch oriented suspension...

Then you can sell your L98 heads, TPI parts, and buy some gas

If I were you I'd add up all the prices for doing it both ways. If the EFI setup is the same price, or just a LITTLE more, I think the added gas mileage and driveability would be worth it. But, if the carb is cheaper, it'll be simpler too, just go that way.

 

Another option you might want to think about is the MegaSquirt, if you can't get your original TPI computer working. Doesn't sound like it'd be any better than just getting a stock TPI computer working or something though.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0403_mega/

 

There are? What are they? I've been thinking about using my old World Heads from my Nova on my 327 build up, and am wanting to go with an LT1 or HSR intake. The LT1 intake can be modified for early model heads, will that rectify the problem?

 

I'll second the use of the mega squirt. I am in the process of building mine right now and I know it will be something that everyone will ooohhh and ahhhh at. Mega Squirt only controls fuel delivery at the moment though, spark control is in the works. Mega Squirt is light years ahead of our stock computers. As well as ahead of aftermarket vendor's ECMs.

 

Yeah that megasquirt was in carcraft, and is definitely kick ***. I'm trying to convice my dad of putting one on his 461, 650 horse poncho in the future, but he wants to stay somewhat oldschool with the carb setup, but that might change.

I also like the megasquirt for the fact, that it is so much easier to tune, and not worry about spark tables, but only the fuel curve, which helps bring the user cost per install down.

 

coolant ports don't want to get covered with a fel-pro 1205 gasket (what you need for sportsman IIs). Mine should be done soon, i'm fixing the problem. (that's my intake in my avatar before port matching)

 

Stealth ram does have issues, like hood clearance. that was an issue for me. And it also came out cheaper for me also, by maybe by around $300. It should work fine on any head that uses a fel-pro 1204 gasket.

 

Mega squirt is nifty, but not light years ahead. It even uses GM sensors, and doesn't control spark, but they have MegaSpark system if you want to do that. they are working on releasing a combined unit in the near future that does both and has the options and tunablity of aftermarket ECMs. I have a commander 950 now, and the interface is similar and has the abilty to have aux. inputs (knock sensor, nitrous activation) and a wideband 02 sensor input.

 

The bus speed of Mega Squirt is three times faster than our computers. It can handle up to 16,000 RPMs. It will take barometric pressure readings of the atmosphere and then adjust the MAP reading accordingly. You can tune it with a labtop or the Mega View while you are driving. The list goes on. I have yet to find another computer that will do that.

 

What is the resoluction of the Mega Squirt fuel map scaling? 8x8, 16x16???What is it on an aftermarket and stock ECU???

Timing control is a HUGE advantage for anyone that has programmed many cars.

 

If i was running 16,000 RPMs, i wouldn't need megasquirt, because it'd be on my Top Fuel car. and i tune my commander 950 with my laptop while i am driving. I'm not sure of the bus speed, but it's fast enough.

 

"Timing control is a HUGE advantage for anyone that has programmed many cars."

-MSD 6AL with or without a vaccuum advance distributor works great.

"If i was running 16,000 RPMs,...

-I said that to show the potential of Mega Squirt.

"What is the resoluction of the Mega Squirt fuel map scaling?"

-16x16 I believe.

"...and i tune my commander 950 with my laptop while i am driving."

-Does the commander 950 come with a little screen that scrolls through everything that it does, shows a problem, and allow you to make changes to the system without a laptop?

How much is a Commander 950 again, I paid 325 for everything for the Mega Squirt.

 

How are you fixing the problem, also does the problem apply to S/R Torquer series heads? Thanks

 

The torquer series heads match a 1204 gasket, i believe, so they should be just fine. I had some material welded to the intake in that area, and am having the intake flanges cut, as i needed .050" taken off of them anyway as my block has been decked twice to give me zero deck height. It wasn't neccessary, but i also had the original bolt holes welded shut, just for a slightly cleaner appearance. Welding was free, and intake machining $50, and i'm still coming out hundreds cheaper than a MiniRam! I'll post pics when i get it back on Tuesday. BTW, the stealth ram just wasn't an option for me, as i wanted to run a STB and not have to cut my hood suports.

 

tpiroc - what he said.

I do agree about the hood clearance issue. I guess I should have said that in defense of the LT1 intake conversion cause that's the very reason I wanna swap I hate popping my hood and seeing the cut underbracing and I'd like to buy an aftermarket hood and not have to mod it.

Anyone know what a shop would charge to tig some material in the corners of the intake?

 

Usually per hour, back in AL it runs about $60 an hour, and it can take around 15-20 minutes. So 15-20 dollars. highly subjective though, if they want to charge you for "time to set up the machine..." and other b.s. Mine are actually pieces of aluminum stock welded to the intake, so it was only one bead all the way around.