I am considering replacing my cam and have afew qeustions. I had an 87 vett and changed teh cam while the engine was still in the car. On my vett, I had to jack the engine up 2 inches to get the cam out because there was a part of the frame which was directly infront of the cam Waht a PITA! Anyway, I have never replaced the cam in a thirdgen. Will I need to jack my engine up at all to remove the cam? My Z is a 91z28. Also, anyother tips greatly appricated!

 

You can pull it w/o having to jack up the motor. Just pull the fans, and radiator, and you will have to swing the condencer out of the way some, but it will come out. Some people pull the condencer, some don't...

 

pull the waterpump
pull the balancer
pull the radiator
pull the AC from infront of the radiator .. you dont have to disconnect the AC lines, just slide it out of the way.....







the problem is the timing chain cover..... removing it usually disturbs the oil pan seal..... if you have a 2 piece cover, you can get to the cam without disturbing the seal.

with a stock style cover, you can wiggle it out, but to get it back in and seal, you'll probly have to trim the rear lip of the timing cover....

if you do have to replace the pan seal, you'll have a PITA time with the oil pan bolts that are above the K member...

i reccomend a one piece rubber over steel replacement oil pan gasket if you do replace yours...



but if all goes well, you wont have to mess with the oil pan gasket.

 

I plan on purchasing a two piece timming chain cover! So Will I have to jack the engie up at all to get teh cam out??? is there anything in the path of the cam which will require me to jack the engine up?

TY!

 

the cam itself? no.


if you have to remove teh oil pan, yes you have to lift it to get it to clear the K member.

 

You DO NOT have to jack the engine up. I'm on my fourth cam in the stock L98 block.

I always ... I REPEAT ... I ALWAYS remove all of the oil pan bolts except for the back 2. Leave the back 2 bolts in but loosen them up A LOT. This will allow the pan to fall and lay against the crossmember. Now you have plenty of clearance to get that front cover off without screwing up the oil pan seal. I am still on my stock oil pan gasket It is extremely easy to remove the oil pan bolts unless you have the oil cooler. I DID have the oil cooler but removed it because it makes dropping the oil pan a true PITA. So, be forewarned, if you have the oil cooler and you intend to do it right and drop the oil pan then it is going to be a true PITA.

Like I said, no jacking of the motor necessary. But, you do have to remove everything up front ... balancer, water pump, timing cover, dual fan setup, radiator, etc. I ALSO had to remove the Airbag sensor (two 7mm or 8mm bolts) and the X-Brace in front of the radiator.

Tim

 

Thank you guyz for the info! My corvette had some sort of front brace that was welded from left to right sides right in front where the cam comes out! I had to jack the engine up 2.5 inches to pull the cam! PITA! I'm considering the LPE 211/219, 213/219, or 219/219? I want to retain as much gpm as possible, yet have a decent cam. I currently have hte zz3 cam.

TY!!!!!!!!!!

 

I wish you could have touched based with me when you were changing the camshaft on the Vette. I've changed the cam in my 86 Vette three times and never had to jack the engine.

I just unscrewed the power steering line that is right in front of the dampner and using a regular puller and installer the dampner can be pulled and reinstalled.

Of course, to make sure there are no oil leaks, it's always best to loosen the oil pan screws just enough for it to drop and clear the timing chain cover.

Jake