CSI Question
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Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 120
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From: South Charleston, WV
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
CSI Question
I'm new to Camaros, so everyone's patience is appreciated.
I think the CSI on my car isn't working, since I have to crack the throttle to get the engine started almost all the time. Not surprising; half the things on this car didn't work at the start. Anyway, I only know where the injector is...I have no idea how to test it, or clean it, etc. I might be able to get it out of the engine, but I don't know, I've never tried.
What's the protocol for determining my problem, so I have a course of action? The CTS is fairly new, and supposedly so is the Engine Temp Sensor, but I can't prove that right now.
Who has my answer?
Thanks! :rockon:
I think the CSI on my car isn't working, since I have to crack the throttle to get the engine started almost all the time. Not surprising; half the things on this car didn't work at the start. Anyway, I only know where the injector is...I have no idea how to test it, or clean it, etc. I might be able to get it out of the engine, but I don't know, I've never tried.
What's the protocol for determining my problem, so I have a course of action? The CTS is fairly new, and supposedly so is the Engine Temp Sensor, but I can't prove that right now.
Who has my answer?
Thanks! :rockon: Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
From: Wichita, KS
Car: 88 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.1L Gen III
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Sorry to tell you this, but your barking up the wrong tree. CSI only works at cold temps, hence the name. It does nothing at the 60 and 70+ temps we're haveing right now. You could also change to an ARAP or the corresponding 1989 tpi car chip and disconnect your CSI. Does the car die sometimes, especially when cold? Your Idle set screw may be backed off too far. Set it according to tech articles in on this website. Also set your TPS to 56 mV's, and check to see if the car's throwing any codes. It's always a good idea on a new (used) car to do a full tune up, new wires, plugs, cap and rotor, etc.
I'd also beg, borrow, or steal a scanner. One scan and you'll know if any sensors are bad.
I'd also beg, borrow, or steal a scanner. One scan and you'll know if any sensors are bad.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Car: 1987 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: 406 TPI
Transmission: T56 6-speed
Check the IAC motor (it uses a cone-shaped valve to control the amount of air that is needed for idling), it is located under the throttle-body and it might be sticking in the closed position.. it might be worth it to replace it anyhow since you said the car is a little ruff... if you need help adjusting it (it's easy) let us know.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: South Charleston, WV
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
I just had the IAC motor out about a month ago and gave it a good bath. I reset min air too, and that made me a bit happier with it's idle. Still, the car just doesn't like to start. I can turn the key on, wait 2 secs til I hear a click, crack the gas, and the car'll start pretty easily.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: South Charleston, WV
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah, I got the relay answer once before, so there's all new relays up in that part of the engine compartment. Thanks for the idea though....keep 'em coming.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,823
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
take a look at your tps. there is an article teling on setting up and testing your tps sensor. have you reset the min idle/air?
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