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ok, the truth about bad fuel pumps?? Please!

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Old Aug 6, 2004 | 11:04 PM
  #1  
86IROCer's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: My Central PA garage
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Boring Automatic
ok, the truth about bad fuel pumps?? Please!

OK, I did a search on bad fuel pumps and relays because I think mine might be on the way out. I tried to start up the car and it did start for one second the shut off. Tried to start it again, and nothing. Turned over but no start. I then realized that the fuel pump was also not priming the system.
I then checked the 20a fuse under the hood and the fuses under the dash for fp/inj. Everything checked out. this is whee my questions come into play.
1. Does the oil pressure sender really have any effect on the fuel pump not being primed or not? I have read many conflcting stories here. I know my sender is bad 'cause the guage reads about 70psi no matter how fast or slow I go.
2. How do you test the fuel pump relay? With a Voltmeter correct?
3. How do you make a 12v fuel pump tester for the ALDL? Do you connect it straight to the battery? I know where to do it, but not how.

Any answers on this already beaten topic is much appreciated. I hate to ask all this again, but I want to sure before I do work on this, since it is somewhat major. THANK YOU very very much for any help. :hail: I will keep you posted on any progress as well.
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Old Aug 6, 2004 | 11:28 PM
  #2  
Stekman's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
The oil pressure switch is merely a fuel pump relay backup. If the relay cuts off and the engine is running (~6 or so PSI oil pressure, forget the exact amount) then the oil pressure switch will "turn on" and send power to the fuel pump. Has nothing to do with priming the system or whatnot.

The fuel pump relay should click as the key is first turned on. Also, you can test by applying 12v+ to the "G" port on the ALDL (bottom left hand corner). This bypasses the relay and directly powers the pump. If you get good pressure when the relay is bypassed, the problem lies in the relay circuitry.

I have run a wire, I think I used 16 ga, tapped to an acc. slot on the fuse box. Turned the key, the wire got power, then applied to the "G" terminal.
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Old Aug 8, 2004 | 02:34 AM
  #3  
86IROCer's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 40
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From: My Central PA garage
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Boring Automatic
Thank you so very much for responding this quickly and informatively. It is much appreciated! I will now go apply my new knowledge.:hail:
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Old Aug 8, 2004 | 02:42 AM
  #4  
Stekman's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Oh, an added tidbit if you didn't know. The FPR (fuel pump relay) will be under the hood, firewall, driver side, near the fender. That's where to go sticking your ear while you turn the engine on and hear for a click. Long arms are nice here. A willing assistant will suffice.
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Old Aug 8, 2004 | 01:28 PM
  #5  
blacknastyz28's Avatar
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From: Hickory, North Carolina
I'm assuming you have a tpi? If so. to see if your getting fuel just check the valve on the right fuel rail back of it. There is a little valve there. Take the cover off , turn the ignition on and push the little thing down. If you are getting any fuel it Will spray. If no fuel chances are your pump is junk.
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