Well first things first I was going to the gas station and I parked my car at the pump and park the wrong way so I went to turn my car around and all my car would do is just turn over . So I assumed i ran out of gas and got a gas can and put gas in still nothing.when I got to the gas station i was on empty so I got it towed home and checked to see if i had any fuel pressure at the fuel rail and I didn't (right now I have about a quarter tank) have any pressure at all but here the fuel pump come on and shuts off. I pulled the #1 spark plug and i am getting spark. So I replaced the fuel pump and put the quarter tank of gas back and primed the fuel system and it still gets a weak pressure. I don't have a vacuum gauge but i pushed the button on the fuel rail and it barely spirts any gas out when i prime the fuel system. I was wondering if it could probably be the fuel pressure regulator but i am not sure and I just wanted to get another opinion before i drop the tank again and return the fuel pump for replacemnt. Do you guys know if i was suppose to fill the tank all the way up before starting the car or what. any response would be greatly appreciated.

 

It usually takes several times of priming the system after a fuel pump change to pressurize the system properly. If you have done that and still no pressure., check fuel filter

 

Now I noticed that when I first turn the key to the on position the fuel pump will prime but when I turn the off and turn it back forward I don't here the fuel pump priming like the first time. Is there a way to bypass everything so i can make the fuel pump prime without having to turn the key back and forth. because like I said before i only here fuel pump come on the first time I turn it.

 

You should only hear it the first time. It sounds to me like you have a severely clogged fuel filter...

 

Do you mean the strainer or the fuel filter that is outside of the gas tank?

 

The fuel filter in the fuel pressure line just forward of the left rear wheel.

 

Apply 12v to the ALDL "G" Terminal, this is what I use to test the flow, or empty the gas tank.

 

I'm having the same problem. When I run a direct wire from the battery to the "G" position of the ALDL my fuel pump kicks on and the car starts, but dies when I remove the wire. I get nothing when trying to start from the ignition switch or even when I run that same wire from the "G" position on the ALDL straight to the fuse block.

Also I noticed that the red/white wire that feeds the "G" position is toasted (outer casing melted to other wires) from the ALDL all the way to the computer and the wire is clearly rusted. I got a feeling this is why the previous owner was happy to get rid of it.

Don

 

Well today i changed the fuel filter and i got a little more fuel pressure than from before then I noticed that when I turned the engine over the spark plug would only fire one time and after that one fire it wont fire again so i chanegd the ignition control module and now i have spark but not enough fuel pressure it seems. So Im going to invest in a vacuum gauge so I can see what psi the pump is putting out. Other than that I am really stumped and have no clue what to do next I dont want to have to get it towed to a shop because i know there is a way i can fix here at home i just can't figure it out.

 

You do mean invest in a fuel pressure gauge right ?

One day earlier this summer a group of friends and I were acting stupid in a parking lot and doing donuts. One of my friends car ran out of gas or got air In the lines during our smoke screen session.(TPI) motor
Well to cut a long story short he couldnt get his car to start and we new it still had some gas.
So this is what I did. He sat in the drivers seat while I got under the hood, we would wait one minute and right before he would turn the ignition forward to power on I would press the schrader valve at the fuel rail to help speed the air out of the system on the 3rd prime the car shot fuel all over me then the car started.

 

Has anyone mentioned checking the fuel pump fuse, relay, or fuel pump switch (oil pressure switch located directly above the oil filter)?

 

I hope I found the problem. I know the Fuel Pump works, and I also know that I had a good connection from the ALDL to the Fuel Pump, but not from the fuse block to the ALDL. Working from the battery I checked the 20 amp in-line fuse which tested good, and from there to the fuel pump relay. Now here is my downfall "I suck at electronics" plain and simple.
Its a 5 pin relay consisting of 3 copper and 2 silver pins, but only 4 pins are being used. I did a continuity check and get nothing except when touching both the silver pins at the same time (I think they are the grounds).
Does this mean the relay is bad or is that a normal reading for a closed circuit that only opens when powered? Or, whats the best way to test this relay?

All help appreciated,

Don

 

Don,
With the relay removed apply 12 volt to pin-C you should hear a clicking sound when you ground pin-B. This is the relay coil should have around 60 ohms across pins-C & B
Pin-E should have continuity to pin-D and switch to pin-A when the coil is energized. Look at the connector for pin lettering.

With the key on and the engine off power to the fuel pump will only be available for a few seconds. Applying 12 volts to the ALDL terminal-G with the key off will power the the fuel pump for as long as you want. When the oil pressure is => 8psi the fuel pump will stay on provided the fuel pressure switch (located directly above the oil filter) is working.

 

Just out of curosity what brand fuel pump did you put in it? I have bought numerous cheapo pumps and about 50 % of them are bad or weak right out of the box.

Thanks,

 

I'm hoping to get over to the car later today (its about 20 miles away) so I haven't had a chance to check the relay without having the connector handy to check the pin lettering. I called the parts store and its only $10, so I'll just pickup a new one. After reading any and all the post's here I could find on the problem I'm thinking there might be a possibility that the relay is bad and maybe even the oil pressure/ fuel pump sending unit. When I hot wired the ALDL "G" pin to the battery to see if the fuel pump was good (which it is) , and when I removed the jumper wire from the ALDL the fuel pump stopped running so I thought I had an idea of whats going on. But after reading all the post's I'm thinking "shouldn't the fuel pump/ oil pressure sending unit have kept the fuel pump running"? I'll have the new relay when I get to the car so I'll know pretty quickly if its just the one, if not I'll pickup the other one in the morning. Sure will be happy when I can get that car home in the garage. I hate doing field repairs.
I'm amazed that the fried "G" wire that goes from the ALDL to the Eprom even worked. I can't figure out what they did to run so much power through it to fry the whole thing, but I'm putting it on top of the priority list to replace it from end to end asap. I'll let you know how things turn out tomorrow (I hope). I have found more info here than any other site or manual has provided.
Thanks,
Don

 

They may have accidently grounded it, which would have caused it to get very hot

The ALDL G-Terminal doesn't connect to the EPROM, it connects to the fuel pressure control cicuit which is internal to the ECM. The EPROM is just like a computer's boot hard drive except its read-only-memory, and it only interfaces with the computer (ECM.)