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My new 383 combo

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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 01:28 AM
  #1  
socal85tam's Avatar
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From: L.A.
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
My new 383 combo

I'm going to swap the engine on my 88 iroc, my plan is to buy a 383 shortblock.
Parts that I'm planning on using are:
383 shortblock, forged pistons w/ 10.5 or 10.0 compression ratio
195 trickflow 23* heads
Crane compucam 2032 214 and 220 dur @ .050 .452 and .465 lift with/1.5 rockers (but will probably use 1.6 roller tip)
24# injectors
Probably a 2000 rpm or so torque conveter
Edelbrock TPI intake manifold
SLP runners
Adjustable fuel pressure reg.
Hedman 1 5/8 shorty headers
Flowmaster muffler


The parts in bold are installed on my stock engine already, and they work really good.
I have the cam, and injectors but I never installed them on my stock 350.

My plan is to build a fun street car that has a lot of torque, and doesn't do too bad on the 1/4 mile.
Three questions:
Do you guys think that is posible to use the stock chip? At least while I find somebody to burn one for my car.

With this combo, will it be a good idea to use the 24# injectors, or is it better to stick with my stock 22# ones and rise the fuel pressure?

What do you think about the torque converter, is it a good idea not to use the stock one?

Any sugestions, comments, examples of your similar combos or ideas, are welcome.
Attached Thumbnails My new 383 combo-cnv0089.jpg  

Last edited by socal85tam; Oct 21, 2004 at 05:25 PM.
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 02:25 AM
  #2  
1320 Right Ln.'s Avatar
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From: Honolulu
Hey! I've got the same CID, heads, and cam!
the motor will run with the stock programming, even with the #24 injectors, just not as well as it could, obviously.
raising fuel pressure won't do jack once u're in closed loop, as the computer is just gonna correct for the increase in fuel flow based on what the O2 sensor reports.
Go with the higher stall converter, I'm using a 2600 stall and that's plenty streetable.
Sticking with the TPI set-up will give you great torque, even with a bigger cam... so if it's gonna be a mostly street, rare track car, then u're on the right path. I've had that same heads, cid, cam set-up on my TPI for a few months and generally liked it.
Then I went to the Stealthram... and now i like the motor even more still got loads of bottom torque, but there is a huge increase in the upper RPM power/torque. It doesn't seem to run out of steam after 5 grand or so... just pulls straight up to my 6200 shift.
One regret I have however, is I wish I went with a different cam. One with more duration and lift, with a wider LSA... u're cam has a 110 LSA right?
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 09:20 AM
  #3  
Chris89GTA's Avatar
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From: Nashville TN
Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/ 3400 converter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 3.42 gears
I think you will find that that intake setup will run out of breath early even for a small cam like that. At some point I would look at either a short runner setup, i.e. HSR, miniram, LT1, or a Superram for that motor...

Those headers would be better off in a 1 3/4" too IMO.
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 03:02 PM
  #4  
jfreeman74's Avatar
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by 1320 Right Ln.
Hey! I've got the same CID, heads, and cam!
the motor will run with the stock programming, even with the #24 injectors, just not as well as it could, obviously.
raising fuel pressure won't do jack once u're in closed loop, as the computer is just gonna correct for the increase in fuel flow based on what the O2 sensor reports.
Go with the higher stall converter, I'm using a 2600 stall and that's plenty streetable.
Sticking with the TPI set-up will give you great torque, even with a bigger cam... so if it's gonna be a mostly street, rare track car, then u're on the right path. I've had that same heads, cid, cam set-up on my TPI for a few months and generally liked it.
Then I went to the Stealthram... and now i like the motor even more still got loads of bottom torque, but there is a huge increase in the upper RPM power/torque. It doesn't seem to run out of steam after 5 grand or so... just pulls straight up to my 6200 shift.
One regret I have however, is I wish I went with a different cam. One with more duration and lift, with a wider LSA... u're cam has a 110 LSA right?
What size injectors are you running right now? How much HP does your motor have? I am looking into getting a 383. It has 440HP. I am thinking about getting the HSR for it but I wasn't sure on the injectors. I have been leaning toward 36lb. Were you able to use your stock distributor? If not which one did you get?
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 04:53 PM
  #5  
1989GTATransAm's Avatar
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From: Cypress, California
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 369 TPI
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Nine Bolt
My only comment is the lift for that cam is on the small side. I think you can get a few extra HP with a higher lift cam and the same degrees. In fact GM sells a factory one that will do the trick.

Whoops just realized you may not have a roller block.
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 05:58 PM
  #6  
1320 Right Ln.'s Avatar
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From: Honolulu
I'm using Venom #30 injectors. not sure how much power the motor has... never went to a dyno. I got a rough curve using DD2000, but I don't trust it much for accuracy. The stock distributor can most certainly be used, but I have an MSD; the whole ignition is MSD.

Yes this cam does have ridiculously low lift... it's even a HR cam. Not sure why they didn't decide to up the lift some. I was looking at a GM one... I can only remember the last the numbers in the part number, 846 i think it was. HR cam w/222/230 on a 112 LSA.
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Old Oct 21, 2004 | 09:47 AM
  #7  
1bad91Z's Avatar
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From: Houston Area
Car: Faster
Engine: Than
Transmission: You!
24# SVO's would be sufficient for what you are doing. I wouldn't go higher than a 30# injector or no lower than a 24#.

The 24's I got on my motor can make it run eye watering rich depending on the PROM tune.

The 30's were enough to flood my friend's 406ci that's built a little stouter than your setup.

Lots of PROM tuning is the key to make your setup run like it's supposed to.
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Old Oct 21, 2004 | 03:06 PM
  #8  
socal85tam's Avatar
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From: L.A.
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
One regret I have however, is I wish I went with a different cam. One with more duration and lift, with a wider LSA... u're cam has a 110 LSA right?
The crane 2032 has a 112 LSA

My only comment is the lift for that cam is on the small side. I think you can get a few extra HP with a higher lift cam and the same degrees. In fact GM sells a factory one that will do the trick.
Are you talking about the hot cam?
And yes, my block is going to be factory roller 1 piece rear main seal.

I might decide to go with a cam with a little more duration and lift, the only thing is that I don't want to goo too large, and loose a bunch of low and mid range torque and gain only a few HP on high RPM.
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Old Oct 21, 2004 | 03:22 PM
  #9  
1320 Right Ln.'s Avatar
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From: Honolulu
i don't think you should go with a cam any more aggressive than the one you have now, if you plan on keeping that TPI set-up.
GM makes two mild cams that could work tho... the popular LT1 HOT cam like you mentioned, and a 846 cam with 222/230 duration on a 112 LSA. But like I said, keeping the TPI set-up kinda defeats the purpose of changing to a more aggressive cam.
And I wouldn't worry much about too little low end torque, that'll probably be the least of your concerns.
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