I've pulled 340RWHP and 370 Ft-lbf torque with my new 395 cu.in. stroker engine. This is after fixing several teething problems (brain fade stuff). Peak power is at 5600 RPM and peak torque is at 4600 RPM. By comparison, Magnum TPI pulled 323 RWHP, so I must be doing something right.

Please check sig for details.

My question is I am running AFR 190s with a ported SR, but a non-ported Accel manifold, should I get the heads port and by how much? What about the manifold? I think the manifold is my biggest flow restriction at this time.

Winters coming up here, so I guess that I could remove all of the top stuff and get things ported. How much can I pick up? and is it worth it? I found a guy (with the help of funstick) who will port the AFR heads for $400 and the manifold for $300.

 

Correction on sig. The Accel manifold was port matched to the ported SR runners, but not ported out.

 

if done correctly porting is always worth power. the question is, is the porting you get, and the power gain from said porting worth the money you will spend to have it done? who knows.

this is just a guess but i would suppose that the base woudl about need to be extrude honed. can hand porting reach all areas of a TPI base like that?

by the way, 370ftlbs at the rear wheels? that thing is a stump puller.

 

there was a thread on here, pretty old one too where this guy ported the crap out of his base manifold and gained lots of power and rpms.

here check this out. This would really open up your car.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=47263

 

The AFR's are what, a 1206 gasket as is? I know for fact the accel will port to a 1205. A 1206 MIGHT be pushing it..

-- Joe

 

Between the AFRs and the intake manifold, I believe that I have the 1205 gasket.

I will have to check my purchases.

Extrude honed: I forgot about that process, excellent choice for the intake manifold.

 

224/230 cam kind of small for a 395 motor? I realize the superram is not super high revving..but didn't someone post on here about running a ZZx cam(239/239)...with a superram?
Nice to see someone running a maf car/big cubes...
370lbs at the wheels seems very low for a motor that size...
No offense of course...I think it has alot more in it is all I'm saying.
Good luck...need more fast Maf setups around here!!!

 

yeah, i would say ZZx cam for over 406 cubes with superram. seems like a proven combo.

224/230 is pretty good for 383 but more wouldnt be a bad choice. like 230/236 for 395. thats what i would run. LOL

 

I will be taking the SR, intake and heads off this Winter for porting. At that time I could install a new cam, but I'd like to see how good I can make the present combo.

Also, I have been thinking about installing a Holley StealthRam latter next year. That should get me more top end.

 

i have been told not to hog out the base of a superram. That is dont siamesse the base. enlarge and smooth out the ports but thats it. dont siamese with superram.

 

The Accel base manifold is much better piece than the original base and therefore will make more power out of the box. Yes you should port it for better flow which will result in more power. Do not enlarge the intake port side. An AFR 190 head should match to a Fel Pro 1205 and that is about the limit for the Accel base.

The AFR's out of the box are pretty good but additional porting will help. I had AFR square off my exhaust port and picked up some flow on the exhaust side. Additional work on the bowl area will increase flow as well as a backcut on the intake and exhaust valves. Another area to concentrate on is the combustion chamber. With the large cylinder size of the 400 ci, additional unshrouding of the intake valve will probably show the largest gains.

Once you have the port work done on the heads, look at the flow numbers particularly the intake to exhaust ratio. If the heads are flowing 75-80% intake/exhaust, you will benefit from changing to a single pattern cam.

www.geocities.com/dzperf

 

I have a Super Ram that may one day find its way to the top of my 406.... Anyway, I did a lot of research on the SR and read somewhere that Lingenfelter got an extra 40hp from porting it. I'm pulling this from memory but this is the number I recall. I fully ported my runners & base manifold, and "siamesed" the openings in the floor of the plenum where the runners meet since the material between runners got thin. I also beveled these openings so the air isn't making a sharp turn. The runners & intake ports are large enough for you to port all the way thru. It seems like I used a modified drill extension and long carbide bits to reach the center of the ports. My Accel base looks like a 1205 is the largest gasket I would want to match it to, I was already impinging into the injector holes slightly so if you decide to match it to a bigger port, make sure you don't go too far into the injector holes. You have to have enough surface for the o-ring to seal 360 degrees. One bummer, and hopefully yours isn't like this, the intake port walls in my Accel base were too thin between the ports so I had to have it welded, they were less than .063" in some areas and I wasn't comfortable this would seal. This was how it was cast, I didn't grind it thin. I only "cleaned up" the rough cast finish to match the rest of the porting finish.

Another mod I made, after much deliberation on how to simplify installation & a conversation with Rich @ Cruzin Performance, was to tap the four middle/inner holes in the runner plates where the plenum sits, and drill out the mating plenum holes that were originally tapped. The original design intent is to thread screws up thru the bottom of the runner plates into the plenum, which seemed impossible to me with my snausage fingers.... This way I can install button head screws into these four difficult-to-reach holes from the top. I plan to use Loctite to keep them from vibrating loose but you could index them and drill holes in the ends and wire them from underneath the plenum for extra safety. Another thought is to put nuts on the screws under the runner plates to act as lock nuts, although again this seems difficult to reach. The button head screw has the smallest profile so it should not affect airflow significantly. Rich told me this is how he does all the SR's he intalls and he hasn't had any problems, and he said it definitely makes it easier to install.

HTH
Shawn

 

What about switching to a Mini-ram? Should move the power more up to the top of the chain. However, the thing is expensive.

 

Shaun - When I was using a SuperRam, I used the button head screws with a nut underneath. It worked well and never came loose.

The reason I made a switch to a MiniRam was for the simple fact that I was tired of installing the SuperRam. I don't care how much you work with it, it's a PITA. I like the MiniRam because I pull the whole unit injectors, fuel rails, throttle body etc. The install is a snap. I did modify the fuel rails slightly.

A SuperRam may make more midrange but I was able to run 11.61@118 using a MiniRam on my 383. This was with full exhaust including cats and street tires! It definately has a wide, flat powerband.

www.geocities.com/dzperf

 

What kind of MPH is it pulling down at the track?

If its in your goal range currently then you can better understand what choice will get you into the next range you desire to be at.

Throwing money at your current setup for a couple more MPH may not be worht it.

You may want to end up changing to a different intake/cam combo to get you where you want to be.

1. You first have to define what it is you want out of the combo in the 1/4 mile.

2. You need to find out what your car is producing with the current setup in the 1/4 mile.

3. Then with all the information in hand it would be best to come back and kick around the data, and decide whether dumping money in the current combo or changing out some parts is your best bet.

Just my .02

 

I have not had a chance to get it to the drags. Drag strips around me here are now closed.

My goal was 400 RWHP, this should get me about 117mph trap speed and with nearly 500 Ft-lbf of torque at the flywheel, I should get a high 11 at the dragstrip.

So the goals were 400 RWHP and high 11s in the 1/4 mile.

 

To get into the upper 100_teens, a bit more cam will go along way for you.

It is doable with the SR, but an intake and cam swap might be the most cost effective option on the table at this point.

Just my .02

How big a gear you got?

 

3.70 and the famous original 9 bolt rear end.

Thanks for the advice. It was my original idea on this 395 project to spin the assembly at a max 6,000 RPM, with an all forged bottom end with a studded 4 bolt main block, it should be bullit-proof.

Anyway, I have been toying with the idea to switch to the HSR. But, first, I would like to get the most out of this combo, give it a real attempt with the Accel SR. Desktop dyno claimed that my combo would make 450 flywheel HP @ 5500 RPM and 505 ft-lbf torque @ 4000 RPM. The chassis dyno run came up with 340 RWHP @ 5600 RPM and 370 ft-lbf torque @ 4600 RPM. I am running a descreened '87 MAF sensor, which is said to flow about 680 to 711CFM, depending on who tested the MAF. So, all in all, I came close to the desktop dyno numbers if I use 0.8 as a loss factor for the 700R4 tranny.

If and when I switch to the HSR, that would be the time to get more cam into it. mentioned above is a 230/236 cam.

 

I wanted to bring this thread back and report on 1/4 times.

Two weeks ago at Milan dragstrip in MI., my '87 IROCZ ran a best 12.32sec and 110.5mph. The 60' time was 1.7x sec with MT ET Streets.

I still have a little ways to go. With a harder launch and getting the tranny to shift at the right RPM (about 5600 to 5800), maybe the car will run in the 11s. I'm still working with the governor in the tranny.