I am looking to replace my stock cam and lifters with my tax refund. But being new at picking cams i am clueles on what would work best for my vehicle. I have a 305 TPI M.A.F. Please recomend what you feel would be the best for performance and pocketbook wise. Thanks everyone in advance

 

if you want a good cam and save some money.. try an LT1 cam from a 96 or 97 car. you can get one for about 50$. people with 305's say they wake up the 305 with this cam. you probably should get a chip tuned as well while you are at it, to take advantage of the cam and performance.

 

i know there are others out there...come on people i need yalls help..lol

 

Through the years I've read this site, I've heard the LT1 cam is pretty nice for the Lb9 cars. Especially the peanut cammed ones. But one guy recently said that our 305's wouldn't get more than 10hp swapping to an Lt1 cam?

However, he's the only one that has said that.

I will be looking for a LT1 cam when I decide to get a cam.

 

i found a roller cam on summit, would it work...

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

 

you can only use an hydrolic roller cam... not hydrolic flat tappet. so based out of the ones you have linked..the only one that will work is the last compcam for 239$... too much money for that thing.

also.. the lowest lobe sep you want to go is 112.. 114 should be a better idle.

this is why people use the LT1 cam.. cost about 50$ and sorry to say, but you get my HP than 10.. other people i have seen claim 25hp+ with headers and a cat back

im using a 93 LT1 cam in my 355.. and its working awesome.

 

I am the original owner of a 1989 GTA 5.0 Litre 5 speed. Recently, I had a rebuilt replacement GM 5.0 Litre engine installed with a Comp Cam and Hedman Hedders. The following are some, but not all, of the major cam manufactures for these cars: Comp Cam, Crane, Holley/Lunati, GM Performance Parts, and others. Your first step is to educate your self on what a camshaft is and what Lift, Duration and Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) does to engine operations. Start by preforming a search of this site by the terms “Cam” or “Camshaft”. You will find several recent posts with lots of information. Then you will know what you want out of your camshaft, which is the brain of the engine. I am a little partial to the Comp Cams but the others are excellent also. Here is the Comp Cam website, which lists all the camshafts they make for our cars.

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Cu...ML/128-169.asp

You need a hydrolic roller lift cam for your car. Scroll down about 1/3 of the way down this list until you get to their Xtreme Energy camshafts. Mine was 08-408-8, which was selected by my mechanic when I did not know much about camshafts. This cam works well with my set up. However, after educating my self on camshafts I may have gone for 08-501-8 or 08-502-8.

If you are not up to learning about camshafts then you can go to a mechanic or contact one of the above companies and tell them what you are looking for and they can advise you, like I did when I let my mechanic select my camshaft. I told my mechanic I wanted more power, without affecting fuel economy too much while still idling smoothly. Boy did I not know much about camshafts at that time; however, I am still quite happy with his selection.

 

There are a few different LT1 cams out there, so the performance increse will depend on which one you get.

RMK

 

did he say what year 305 he had if its' an 86 or earlier he will not be able to run a roller cam unless he gets retrofit roller lifters

 

You'd better hope they mail you a really strong, 22" long check.

AS stated, the '86 used a hydraulic flat-tappet "camshaft", if that's what you chose to call it. It seems more like an out-of-round shaft to me. Anything would be an improvement. I'm a victim as well.

If you are planning to use the stock (unported) heads and stock valve sizes, I would look into a Comp 12-402-4 (260AH14), a Crane 2040 (114132), or something similar. If you change gears, port the heads, alter the valves, or plan on any other significant changes, you'll need to research what works well with the planned modifications.

 

i just recently got a call from the local yard that had a 88 350 TPI brought in ($500 or LS1 for $750). So i just might hold off on the mods on this motor as long as possible and just buy that motor. Seems to be alot more bolt on and over all performance mods for the 88 serp.

 

Which one of those cams will go good with a 91 LB9? And by good i mean lots of tire roasting power!

 

I'm going to do a cam swap with a head swap (305 torquers) sometime this summer. I called Crane tech for a recommendation because I have a blower and I heard a long time ago that blowers like lots of lobe separation. (114 plus). I was going to go with the 194/204 grind (#104211?) but when I mentioned that I had a Vortech and figured I needed more lobe separation than that grind offered, the tech agreed. #104221 is 204/214 with 116 degrees of LS. This is very similar to the stock 305 manual/350 cam used in 90-92 I believe, so it should still be fairly docile. It's an emissions legal (50 state) grind, and should bring a significant power boost, even in N/A form. I have an '89 automatic with the infamous "Peanut cam." One other thing to consider: make sure that the dist gear on the cam is compatible with your dist. gear. If the cam has an iron gear, as opposed to the billet material of the lobe area itself, you are fine. Otherwise, if in doubt, call the tech to find out about compatiblity, or use a bronze gear. The theory is (was) that it's always easier to pull a distributor out to change its gear than to pull a cam because its gear is chewed up. Good luck to you.

 

I just purchased a Crane 2032 for my 87 305. It's about is big as you can go in a 305 and still use the stock PROM. I'm told that it will pass smog with no problem too. I think that this is one of the best off the shelf cams for a 305.

 

You are probably right. I know you can go bigger than I am choosing to. The only real question is will you kill any of your low-end grunt? I know a little more than the basics about cam design/choice, but I couldn't tell anyone where the break-point would be for streetability. I know that much of that depends on what type of power-adder, if any, one chooses to use. Obviously, you've done a little homework, too, because I heard that the stock prom chips will work at least reasonably well with all of Crane's emissions-legal grinds. I guess they're just not radical enough to cause any real problems with the electronics, especially on MAF sensor equipped cars.

 

At this point I'm trying to convince myself that 19# stock injectors are too small for my setup (Crane 2032, SR Torqers, AFPR, stock PROM). I think... I'm almost sure... that I should use the SVO 22# injectors and run them at 39.5 psi in order to get a flow rate of ~ 21#/hr.

My goal is to get to 275+ HP at the flywheel with this setup. This will give me plenty of injector headroom if I find that I need it. Later, if I can grasp the scope of burning my own PROM, I'll tweek the FE tables (?) in order to allow raising my fuel pressure to a more standard 45 psi. That would give me better atomization of fuel.

I'm not worried about loosing my low end "grunt" since my car has plenty, it's a 5-Speed with 3.45 gears. What I really need is some top end HP in 4th gear. Power out to 5500 RPM? That might be beggin', but 5200 is probably a sure bet.

 

I've got a Crane 2032 in my 305 and am very happy with it. You can use the standard distributer gear with these cams...wish I knew that before I put one of those bronze gears on which slowly get worn out.

 

i recomend the crane 2050 series compucam. its the biggest cam in the computer compatable cams made by crane. good quality cam. zepher put this cam in his other wise stock 305tpi motor and ran a 14.1 at 99mph. it does work with the stock computer and prom from what im told. i will be ordering this cam next week so i will keep everyone posted on how it goes.

 

The injector question can be a "sticky" one because future power adders may dictate an injector swap. Coincidentally, I just received my 24 lbs/hr Ford injectors today. In one of my earlier posts I made a reference to purchasing Accel 19 pounders. Within an hour of writing that response, I read in another post on this site about people having HORRIBLE experiences with Accel injectors. There were a few defenders of these items, and it appears that it's the sizes above the 19 pound level that have caused all of the problems. Vortech recommended Ford Motorsport Injectors several years ago to me when I called their tech line. I caved in and bought the Accels just because I was afraid that I was missing some subtle difference in the Ford units that would preclude them from fitting properly. I've learned my lesson: for anything bigger than the stock level, I might as well buy the recommended Ford injectors. The Ford injectors seem to be the biggest bargain in EFI tuning today: they come well-recommended by many diverse sources, and they are not expensive. I really hope I don't jinx my installation by saying what I've been thinking for a long time. Anyway, try to take a look at the April/May 2000 Car Craft articles on EFI blower tuning and installation. They give the formula for computing injector size for any particular application. It's easy.