i have been looking for a way to test MAF's out of cars everywhere and ive been told by a couple of people that u can test a MAF sensor out of the car by checking for connectivity (with a volt meter) between terminals A and C. and if you dont get connectivity the sensor is bad.
now im not too sure if that is true, but im just throwing this out there, because ive read alot of posts where people just assume its the MAF sensor, when it most likely is not.
has anyone ever heard of this test being used?

 

I've never heard of it, but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist.

I've always just performed an output voltage or frequency test (depending on the MAF type). If you have a TPI between '86 and '89, you're lucky enough to be able to test it with a plain old voltmeter:



If you have an '85 TPI, V-6, or later MAF engine (like LT1) you need to whip out the old garage 'scope:

 

I'm thinking it would be relatively easy to similarly test a suspect MAF against a known good MAF with just a small source of air movement. Even a small pancake fan would be sufficient. I know it would be a lot easier than replacing the hot wire in a failed MAF.

 

All I done is put a red digital volt-meter prong, and push it into
the middle wire (out of 5) on the MAF sensor. Then ground the black wire out of the volt-meter.

Then with engine running, I check the voltage fluctuation, as I
rev the engine.

 

Hey my Helm's manual says MAF sensor should vary between .4v at idle,
and 5.0v at wide open throttle.

Iv'e tested 3 MAF's on 2 different cars that ran good, and the MAF
voltage output varied in the range of .75v to 2.5 volts, on all of the MAF's. I am assuming that this is normal since the cars were running good at the time.

Perhaps I would get a higher MAF voltage reading at WOT, if my motors were more capable, and could consume the air faster.

 

Your reading of 0.75V seems completely normal to me, despite what the manual may indicate. I'd say you have no problem with the MAF sensor itself.