Hey fellas, I finaly got my 89 GTA. All stock and runs crappy, has been sitting around for 2 years.

I am trying to change the spark plugs on the left side of the motor without any luck! I spent about 2 hours trying to get to the plug from the top and also the bottom of the car.

The problem is, all plugs are original and are completely rusted on, I've broken every one of the plugs on the right side of the motor when replacing them, so I cannot even budge them using a flexible joint extension.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I might have to take this to a shop if all else fails, I realy hate getting stumped on such a simple job, and looking through the forumns yielded no luck.

Thanks guys!

Dan

 

Ice,

Apply a little penetrating oil and allow it to do its thing.

I've had pretty good luck with just a short extension on #1 and #3, a flex head ratchet and socket on #5, and a 6" extension or just a wrench on the plug socket flats for #7.

 

Thanks man, i have gotten plugs 3-7 changed, just need the ones 2-8, hard ones!

 

TIP: Left is driver's side, Right is passenger's side.
Be sure to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery when working on 6 and 8. It's very easy to slip and spark the starter. Number 4 is the real fun one though. I remove it completely blind. For 6 and 8, try using a 3/4" socket as a extension on the end of your 5/8" spark plug socket. It gives me the most "swing room".

Since the car has sat for 2 years, definitely use penetrating oil and wait at least a half hour before a removal attempt.

 

Yeah hit em with a little pb Blaster, that stuff works pretty good.

 

Thanks guys, will try again tomorow. I cannot even see #8, should I do this from underneath the car?

 

I get all of mine from the top. No reason to raise the car just to change plugs. And my car has all the A.I.R. lines, A/C, and all the options installed (except the ejection seats). The only thing later cars have in the way is the hot water valve for the heater, and even that shouldn't prevent you from changing them from the top. Actually, I believe Jade is correct in saying that #2 and #4 are more of a challenge.

Of course, orangutan arms help a lot.

 

I got all but the last one from the top. I bought some spark plug tools, and it wasnt too bad.


tip: Get a mirror and rest it in the brake lines or something so you can see the plug.

 

I have 1-3/4" SLP headers, and no A/C. I use a 5/8" sparkplug socket with 3/4" wrench flats on it. I drilled out the 3/8" rachet hole to 1/2" diameter and cut the shirt off so that the spark plugs bottoms out with the tip sticking out the top. I turn it with a 3/4" rachet wrench on #2 & #4 from the top, and on #5, & #7 from underneath, it takes about an hour and a half to do all eight. The heads are aluminum so I don't do it until it's stone cold, and I use very little anti-seize compund on the threads.

 

Yeah i have the same headers, and do something similar as you. Just with a open end wrench. I have to use the boxed end wrench to install one or two of them.

I just use a little oil on the plug threads. Last time I used some of that silver anti-seize. I thought the plugs were gonna pull some threads getting them out. I think I used the wrong kind.. dunno?

 

I actually put my car on rhino ramps and remove most from the bottom. I think #1,#3, and #2 are the only ones that I attack from the top.

With the factory heat shields, heater hoses, and AIR system all on the passenger side, removing #6 and #8 is way easier from the bottom.

Buying an inspection mirror is something I've been meaning to do next time I need to change plugs. When the weather gets better, the SLP's are finally going to be installed.

 

Thanks for the help fellas, I was able to get 1,3,7 from the top, 2 and 4 from top also, but 6 and 8 are easiest to get from the bottom. Have to say 2 and 4 are *****! Due to the AIR system it was so hard to get a wrench in there, I had to use a flexible Stanley wrench that could pivot in 4 different positions, even then, plenty of scraped knuckles! The car's plugs were stock, the things were back from '87! So it was deffinately a chore that took me an entire can of WD40 and plenty of hammering, ouch!

Unfortunately the car runs very bad when cold, it stalls out constantly and I am forced to sit in it and gas it contiunously until it warms up to about 120, then it finaly idles fine.

I am wondering what the cause of this might be, probably the idle needs to be adjusted?

Thanks so much for the help,
Thirdgen.org is the best tool for info!

Dan

 

SLP actually sells a modified socket for $20 bucks. Worth it's weight in gold for header guys. Slide that sucker on and use an open end wrench. I use a short wrench to get a better swing. The regular length seem to get in the way of things.

 

Check the ECM for codes. Sounds liek the coolant temp sensor (not the one that drives your temp guage) could be bad or disconnected.... that's where I'd start out.

And I do all but #1,3, and 5 from under the car - much easier!!!!!

 

Are you reffering to the coolant temp sensor in the front of the intake manifold?

 

There are 2. I think the one that drives the gauge is on the intake manifold. The one that drives the ECU is on the driver's side head. In the picture Vader attached it s between #1 and #3, underneath the exhaust manifold. You can see it from the top with headers, but not with the manifold. You can definitely see it from underneath.

Or, I could have it backwards....it's one or the other.

 

I think you have it backwards. Can someone confirm? I think I remember changing the head sensor to correct my temp guage freaking out. That was a while back though.

 

Yeah, looked it up, I have it backwards...always mix those two up.

 

Yep! Coolant temp sensor is on front of intake manifold. The single wire clip on sensor on the driver's head is for the guage only. If you have dual fans, there's another one on the passenger head that controls the second fan.

 

Thanks fellas, going to check all the sensors out ASAP and take the car to a shop to get it analyzed. I am also going to complete the tune up by changing the cap and rotor and the PCV valve, also going to flush the coolant system and later on change the tranny fluid and filter....ahh yes also the fuel filter. Hopefully by then that 350 will roar like a beast.....without stalling out when cold hehe.