I have a 91 350 block and was wondering what the power differences are from building a 350 or 383. Asuming same heads and cam. With stock tpi setup.

Also whats the differance in the 5.7 rods and the 6' ones besides the obvious. Do the 6 inches make more power? whats the differance between bushed and pressed

Ill probly go with afr 180's or trickflows anbd the cam i have no clue on.

The car will be a daily driver and must pass emmisions.

Last anyone know a good shop in ga to get the block cleaned up?

 

Basically a 350 is a 4.0 bore a 383 is a 0.030 larger bore with a longer stroke. Normally you'll see more hp and tq gain, because of having a larger piston and more volume to draw air/fuel in with the longer stroke.

Either way I'm a strong believer a stock TPI system will choke both if it's making any kind of power. TPI's are great at bringing out torque for street use, but they're just not made to be a 400+ hp intake without porting and other mods.

6.0 and 5.7 rods - Longer of course. Due to that fact you have to run different pistons. The 6.0 rod pistons have a higher pin hole in them. Else if you tried to use a regular piston on a 6.0 rod it would come out of the deck. Supposely a 6.0 is suppose to make a little smoother torque over the range.

Pressed means the pins have to be pressed onto the rod when hanging the pistons. Bushed means there "floaters" which means you use a spiral lock after hand sliding the pin in to keep the pin in it's place. Bushed is nice if you plan on doing stuff yourself or pulling the motor apart frequently.

AFR 180s are kind of small. I would consider 195s there the same cost. Check out http://www.tenperf.com/ they have decent prices and Dave is awesome at answering questions.

OH and for the cam make sure to get one that's compatiable with your computer. Else you're gonna run into all kinds of problems. Compcams offers a line along with many other major companies.

 

As far as the cam choice goes, any "healthy" cam that is worthy of AFR 195s is going to require significant tuning. Don't pick a small cam to get around that.

 

I have a 91 350 block and was wondering what the power differences are from building a 350 or 383. Asuming same heads and cam. With stock tpi setup.
---With the stock TPI set up the 383 will die at an earlier RPM. 383 will make more torque and power though.

Also whats the differance in the 5.7 rods and the 6' ones besides the obvious. Do the 6 inches make more power?
---There have been many dyno tests to prove that IF ANY diference, it is never more than 10 hp more peak. People buy 6" rods to decrease side loading=logetivity.

Ill probly go with afr 180's or trickflows X
--- I am a firm believer in anyone who builds a TPI for a daily driver justs needs the Vortec heads. After that, it is harder to justify.

Last anyone know a good shop in ga to get the block cleaned up?
---If you just want it hot tanked, you could try the good oven cleaning sprays--with gloves.

For the cam in a daily driver look at the ZZ3, LPE 211-219, 219-219 or a similar comp cam. Don't under rate the LPE cams in a TPI set up.

 

let me just add, a 383 ruffy cost about a grand more and you'll drop about 1 full sec off the 1/4 mile

 

I do plan on later doing slp runners with a ported intake or a superram. I would like to get it in and running before I do that though.

I would like to run mid 12's or better with the setup. Do I need forged crank or will a scat 9000 or eagle equivalent work and hold up? I dont plan to rev it over 6k

 

NeedForSpeed, how did you come up with a grand?

I was looking at small blocks and difference between 355 and 383 was only the crank that had different stroke size. Price difference between the two blocks was $100.

 

Well I'll tell you what I did...

I blew my 305 up finally... so time for a new engine, No Way was I going to rebuild my 305. I had a 350 block, but it needed to be rebuild... after looking at the crank, it needed a new crank, and I always wanted a Stroker... so I decided to go for it.

I bought a stroker kit off ebay... it included:

Eagle ESP Crank (3.75" Stroke)
Eagle 5140 Forged SIR I beam rods
SRP Forged Flat Top Pistons
400 Style Flexplate and Balancer
Bearings, Rings, Piston Pin Locks, Piston Pins, ETC.

That cost me about $850 shipped, already balanced and ready.

Then I took a while deciding on heads, but I went for the best I could find (or so everyone says) I got the AFR 195cc Heads with 67cc Chambers and the upgraded springs, good for .600 lift.

They ended up costing me about $1,800. To the door, also from Tenatious Performance I saw mentioned earlier, Great company, Dave is awesome for answering questions and making sure everything is in order. They showed up about 2 weeks after I ordered them.

I then went to have the block machined, and found out it was unusable... so I had to save up money and find another block. In the mean time I searched around to find a reliable and knowledgeable machine shop. I found a local shop which I had heard good things about online, so I went there... and my short block is being put together, should be done Wednesday...

Machine work on that block, plus the block core, and assembly is gonna run me just over $1,000.

I chose a custom grind cam for my setup, it is a close match to the TPIS zz9 Camshaft, only slightly less duration on the exhaust side. The specs are 212/224 Duration at .050 and .480/.521 lift with 1.5 rockers. It should be here shortly. Cost me $250.00 for the camshaft from Summit. Lifters were purchased on eBay, Brand new (Sealed Power/Federal Mogul Brand) for $125.00.

As for the intake... I bought a TPIS Big Mouth intake off eBay directly from TPIS for $380 after shipping. I got a set of Edelbrock Cast runners off of eBay Also for $240. I am planning on gasket matching the runners to the base, and the base to my heads, and probably opening up all the ports a bit if I can. I don't want this thing to choke up, I am hoping to spin it past 5500 and make power, but we'll see.

As for injectors, I am running the LS1 Injectors from SLP. They are take outs, flowing 25 lb/hr, If I need more flow, I will just turn up the pressure, I will get better atomization of the fuel that way anyway. They were 110, shipped.

So total spent so far is about $4,750, which I consider is quite reasonable for an engine with this potential.

I need some more pieces, but I think this whole engine, including intake/runners, and everything will end up under $5,500... I am estimating it will make about 300 rwhp/425 rwtq... but those estimates may be a little high... hopefully everything will be done in about a month, and we'll be able to see exactly what it does make on the dyno.

 

Cast steel cranks (series 9000) are fine for any one how is running a N/A engine at street strip levels. The new corvette cranks are a series 9000 and GM rates them at 1,000 horsepower. The tensile strength of a steel crank is 10,000-30,000 psi greater.

If you plan on dropping money in the TPI set up, then you could go with Trick Flows 195 series. Expect less gas mileage though. I am putting my 383 together now also, and I am already planning on driving it less with gas prices expected to be $2.25 for low octane.

 

im talking about a stock 350 a kit to turn it to a 383 is around $500 to $1,000 or more depend on a few things + around $500 in machine work , thats all i was saying