ok being the very broke college student that i am i decided to make my own cold air intake on my 87 TPI. my big hurdle was that i wanted to open the whole thing up..... MAF included i cut the MAF apart so i was left with only the sensor part, then i cut a square hole and mounted the senser inside the tube, well now here is where i learned that a f***ed up the car would start then idle really bad and stall when i tried to hit the gas it would die right away. i thought that well,, really kinda hope that, i had made so much new flow that my injectors were now to small to keep up. but after thinking about it and talking to some friends i came to a different conclusion. my intake is so big that the air just goes right aroung the sensor insted of through it so it just won't read right anymore. it might be a combo of the two but i am replacing the injectors any way just not sure what size but now to the really sh*tty part i need a new MAF...... i was told a while back that a used LS1 MAF with a translator would work really well and it was as big as a i wanted but i still have know clue what to do if anyone could help me fix my error with as little green as posible would be awsome but i want to get as much air through as posible aswell

thanks
mcwille

 

I'm guessing from your post that you're not majoring either in English or in Engineering.

Score a regular Bosch MAF from the parts store and put it back together correctly. Fitting an LS1 MAF to operate w/ a TPI ECM is spotty at best, you need the car to be reliable so you can focus on your classes. Especially English Comp 101.

 

I dont need it reliable. I have a get around beater for that. i'm just trying to follow this basic principal, more air means more fuel can be added to get more horse power. this is just my friday night ride.

p.s. I passed comp 101 with a D, it is my worst subject

 

Maybe you want to experiment with a Wells replacement MAF...do a search and you should be able to find some info. They're newer technology and should flow better, and they're a direct swap-in with no mods needed.

With a stock L98 and stock TPI, your MAF and induction tract aren't likely limiting your power production in any meaningful way.


I can understand that.

 

i can't find a wells MAF is there anyone who as a other sugjestions aswell?

 

Your sensor detects not nessisarily flow as a volume, but as a velocity.

So your sensor reads that the air is traveling at x ft/s.

It will do this no matter what size tube it is in. Where you messed up is with the computer.

The computer converts the flow into a volume by taking the x ft/s the sensor calculated and multiplying it by the AREA of the tube - which is a constant (I'm sure there's other calculations too but I'm just going very basic here).

In fact I think the cpu takes it a step further by using your Volume flow and multiplying by the density determined by your air temperature = g/sec)

So you have x ft/s multiplied by Y Area. The problem is you changed the area so it is multiplying x ft/s by Z Area (Z = modified Area) and so basically the problem lies in the programing. Also by enlarging the Area you have actually decreased the velocity so the computer calculations are completely off and that is why your engine is a boat anchor.

You could probably get into the computer and make changes, but would just be better off putting back a stock unit and work on other mods...

Exhaust,
Plenum porting
cold air
etc...

I do not feel your MAF is holding you back or going to gain you anything at this point.

PS: I'm a SD guy so MAF guys if i'm incorrect on anything let us know!

 

Call the boneyard. A used sensor is about $75 in my area. My car has gone in the 10's with a stock, descreened sensor. They are not the restriction every claims they are.

 

Any CarQuest parts store can sell you a Wells MAF, or order it for you if they don't stock one. As of about three weeks ago, they were still being offered by Wells - That came directly from the Wells marketing department.

 

this was my attempt at a cold air setup and the exuast will be done as soon as i get my car back on the road to take it to school. they have lifts at O.C.C.

 

The MAF measure mass air flow which is in grams/sec which is the units the ECM uses, not velocity which is in ft/sec.

No matter how big of a hole is up front the rest of the induction system determines how much air can be ingested.

The MAF sensor (hot wire anemometer) is calibrated for the mass of the volume of the stock MAF bore, with a larger bore there's more mass, but the sensor only reports the amount for the stock bore (it's not auto-calibrating.) Since green is the control here, just put it back the way it was. Ask around I'm sure there's someone with the knowledge and experience to make it work. There are things you can do by trial and error, but this isn't one, running the car too lean because the ECM can't compensate will cost big time. I'd suggest buying another beater to experiment with.

 

I'm with floor guy. Just go pic up a junk yard maf.

 

check eBay, used MAFS usually sell for around $50-60. As for injectors, if you want a good upgrade over stock(though with your mods you should not need to change them)go with 24 lb SVO injectors. They are cheap and with an AFPR can make power in the 300+ range.

 

on the note of modding my engine.... i was told that a zz4 cam would be great in my car..... does any one have any opinions on that one? i know i would need new springs but other than that would it be a nice mod???

 

Very good and very inexpensive cam and springs. I highly recommend it for a daily driven car.

 

I agree with Floor Guy, it is a good cam and they cam be found cheap. Lots of them are pulled and replaced with Hot Cams even before the engines are turned over. They have good street manners and in a time of expensive gas should be decent to you at the pump as far as fuel economy.

 

what do you think hp increase would be?

 

If the engine is stock, maybe 10-15 horsepower at most. It starts to pay off more when you upgrade other things. Everything works together. When you stick a cam in it may not feel like much, but you add things like headers, heads, intake, etc, that is when it all starts to come together. As for the injectors, save your money for something else like exhaust or headers. Your stock injectors are more than you need at the moment. You could also look into an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. If you do get a cam that size though, be sure to use the recommended springs with it. Your stock ones will not take it and will make your cam performance suffer(early valve float, etc.). Hope this helps

 

I have a MAF for sale if you still need one, came out of an 89 IROC w/ 350. It only has few hundred miles on it. Switched car to SD, no need for MAF now.

$60.00 US + shipping

Let me know,

Mike

 

well when i put the cam in, it would get my headers and exaust put on it. as well as portting the plenum, putting on an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, new plugs, wires and MSD distrubuter. any thoughts on how that might help?

 

You might be looking at 30-40 horsepower. You may need a chip after all that also